Tiller Maschio Tiller Problems

[Newtogreen]

Thanks for the reply, my main concern is getting to the non chain side to clean the old grease out. By what you said I have to take the housing off the non chain side and the sprocket off the chain side in order to pull the rotor out is that correct? Thanks Larry

 

[mjdtexan]

Thanks for the reply, my main concern is getting to the non chain side to clean the old grease out. By what you said I have to take the housing off the non chain side and the sprocket off the chain side in order to pull the rotor out is that correct? Thanks Larry

Oh. There is another way for you to get to the non chain side. If you look real close, that panel that that housing is on comes off. It just unbolts. You could unbolt yours and pull it away from the housing

I just looked at the manual, its on page one and its called the right side panel

 

[Newtogreen]

Thanks for that idea, that should make easy work of it as long as I support the rotor. See two heads are better than one. Thanks Larry

 

[bky]

As i have the same tiller i will have to find a place to save this useful information.
Thanks

 

[Newtogreen]

bky, which model do you have? You could probably help us also. Larry

 

[DiskDoctr]

I have one without a name that looks similar to the one in the iowa link. Inside the lateral gearbox (the one you're working on) it calls for 1.5L of SAE EP 90.

Mine also has a central gear-box that requires .75L of the same.

Interestingly, mine has a locknut and pin (square bolt) to tighten the chain, on the inside and to the front of the bearing you just replaced.

I don't know if yours has the same or not, but something to check for.

Hope this helps.

- JC

 

[mjdtexan]

I have one without a name that looks similar to the one in the iowa link. Inside the lateral gearbox (the one you're working on) it calls for 1.5L of SAE EP 90.

Mine also has a central gear-box that requires .75L of the same.

Interestingly, mine has a locknut and pin (square bolt) to tighten the chain, on the inside and to the front of the bearing you just replaced.

I don't know if yours has the same or not, but something to check for.

Hope this helps.

- JC

Ha ha. No, I dont have that. Actually, I had somebody else say that to me today. I took the chain cover off and looked in case I missed it. I didnt.
I do appreciate it though. I lived in your neck of the woods one fall and winter. Latrobe. My sons still live in Greensburg

 

[DiskDoctr]

Just down the road from me I'm near Ligonier. Lots of snow this year, been busy.

My adjustment is on the back of the chain tensioner (circled in the attached pic)

How is your tensioner attached? Do you have a pic?

It looks like your tensioner might be just spring tension?

Edit: Here is a pic from my manual

- JC

 

[mjdtexan]

My tensioner is right were you circled it but you dont adjust it. Its held in place by a spring that is held on by the chain cover.

 

[DiskDoctr]

My tensioner is right were you circled it but you dont adjust it. Its held in place by a spring that is held on by the chain cover.

I believe the way mine works is the spring is on that bolt. That bolt has a spring on it. When turning the bolt it puts more or less spring tension against the chain.

Set it where you want it, then tighten the outside jamb nut to hold it there.

I can't quite picture what you have. Can you get a pic of the outside and inside of your tensioner- if you haven't filled the gear case with oil yet?

Here's why: If you don't have enough tension on the chain, the chain will slip under load and can damage the chain or sprockets. If too much tension, the chain cannot slip as designed when hitting a sudden, large shock load (rock, root, etc)

We want your hard work restoring this equipment to get it back the way it should be and in proper working condition.

- JC

 

[mjdtexan]

I believe the way mine works is the spring is on that bolt. That bolt has a spring on it. When turning the bolt it puts more or less spring tension against the chain.

Set it where you want it, then tighten the outside jamb nut to hold it there.

I can't quite picture what you have. Can you get a pic of the outside and inside of your tensioner- if you haven't filled the gear case with oil yet?

Here's why: If you don't have enough tension on the chain, the chain will slip under load and can damage the chain or sprockets. If too much tension, the chain cannot slip as designed when hitting a sudden, large shock load (rock, root, etc)

We want your hard work restoring this equipment to get it back the way it should be and in proper working condition.

- JC

I have filled it and used the equipment. Believe it or not the top bearing is now leaking. So, I will take it back apart and get you a shot of it. I have found the bearing for less than $10. I shoulda replaced every bearing. I'm going to this time.

 

[DiskDoctr]

I have filled it and used the equipment. Believe it or not the top bearing is now leaking. So, I will take it back apart...

Yep, sounds EXACTLY like one of my projects!

Considering the condition of the chain and such when you started, you might want to go out and put a few hours on it first. It will loosen everything up and any pieces of rust or grunge will come out with the oil.

You can either replace or finely filter the oil and return it to the case. (Shouldn't be any heat or anything, so the oil should be fine)

- JC