Massey Ferguson 35 Frankenstien.......

[Ewgoetz]

Actually I was looking it over today and there are 4 hoses that need to be changed, others don't look to bad.
I just don't like doing things twice and would rather get it done first time around.

Still looking for bushings for the front loader to bucket. Think I found some but unsure if they will work, reason I say this is cause the old bushing that fell out of the one side ..... Well let's just say there wasn't much left of it.

 

[Ewgoetz]

Got 2 new bucket pivot bushings ordered and on the way... 3-5 business days.

 

[Ewgoetz]

Changed out about 5 hydraulic hoses for the loader and added 2 new ones for the 3rd spool.
Found my return hose was leaking, replaced it.
Drained all the old milky hydraulic fluid out and filled and bleed new hydraulic fluid.
Got the bushings in and mounted up the loader attachment.
Topped off the coolant and added a coolant resivior.
Than found my radiator is dripping.
Runs pretty good now, ordered a new rad with hose and pads. Though about pulling the old one and repairing it, but a lot of the fins looked damaged or possibly rotted out, won't know for sure til I pull the old one out. That won't be til I get the new rad. In the mean time I'm just gonna use straight water and watch the temp gauge when I use it.
Tomorrow's project will be to get the new front tires on it. The right front is slowly leaking air and the all terrain trailer tires are doing nothing for me when I'm in muddy type of terrain.

Also put on some of that cloth stuff to protect the hoses from the weather elements.
Will try to get some pics of it tomorrow, keep forgetting to snap pics of the work I did to it.

 

[The kid]

If your radiator is made similar to a 135. You only need to remove one nut and loosen the other. One side has a slot in the front so you can pull one side forward. The bolts are carriage bolts. Once you loosen then they may lose bite. Jam a screwdriver between the front mount and the radiator bottom so you can finish removing the nut. Om my radiator there are carriage bolt slots on the very bottom. The strapping type pads go between the front frame and the rad. murph1244 just did his. I can't remember which side was a bolt thru and which had the slot. Yours may have different radiator so the above may be mute.

 

[murphy1244]

If your radiator is made similar to a 135. You only need to remove one nut and loosen the other. One side has a slot in the front so you can pull one side forward. The bolts are carriage bolts. Once you loosen then they may lose bite. Jam a screwdriver between the front mount and the radiator bottom so you can finish removing the nut. Om my radiator there are carriage bolt slots on the very bottom. The strapping type pads go between the front frame and the rad. murph1244 just did his. I can't remember which side was a bolt thru and which had the slot. Yours may have different radiator so the above may be mute.

Left nut needs Removed and right one just loose.

 

[Ewgoetz]

Thanks for the info kid and murph!

So snapped a bunch of pics today...... Again after I finished changing the tires forgot to snap pics afterwards.
But here are a bunch of the hydraulic lines with the cloth weather protectant. Also I stil have a few of the lines secured with plastic tie straps, they are temporary til I make some line fasteners to hold them permanently.

Btw the original line fasteners that were there were never put back correctly from one of the previous owners. There were some broken bolts in the loader arms where the original hydraulic lines ran and had fasteners there. Instead they just used hose clamps to bunch the steel hydraulic lines together.

 

[Ewgoetz]

Another thing on my list is to change the function of the 3rd spool valve. Right now if you pull it back to you ans let go, it returns to center. Which is the way I like it. How ever you push it forward it will not spring back, it stays at where you let go of it. Any one know how hard it be to change that function? It's a gresen 2703 valve and I've searched all over creation on finding a rebuild kit and a manual for this valve. I also picked up a single spool valve a whole back ago that looks to be the same valving as what I have on the 3 spool, it's where I picked up the red handle for my 3 spool. Can I swap out the valve internals to make the 3rd spool work like I want it to?

 

[Ewgoetz]

So figured out that the leaking coolant isn't from the radiator but from the upper rad hose. The rad can stil be changed out as I mentioned it looks like a few of the fins on it are rotted out. But for now putting it on hold. Can't do much on the hose as well cause the hose clamp that's on the engines side is being pressed against the fuel tank and can't be removed unless I pull the tank. So right now I just need to add a gallon of water or less every time in use it.

Fri, sat and Monday were very hood days cause I used it a lot and got a lot done around the property I'm tryin to clear with the tractor.
Monday did end badly though cause this happened to my tractor.

I'm hopin I can pull that pipe piece off and replace it, maybe reinforce it some how and be back in business.

 

[Ewgoetz]

Btw anyone know what's the piece of metal for that's hanging down from the tub that the loader is attached to for? There are 2 of them, one on both sides. The side that is broken has one just like this side but its bent back some.

 

[Ranchero50]

Honestly, it looks like some dummy put the front plate on upside down. I almost bet that if installed like your bottom pic that those tabs will go to the fender bolt holes and there should have been longer bolts installed. That way the weight would be supported by the outboard frame and not the center of the front axle support. The way it was installed there's too much leverage on the tube at the weld and it was guaranteed to fail.