Measuring fuel additives

[Bob_Young]

In my case the reason for the 2-cycle oil is to restore some of the lubricity lost when we switched to ULSD. There have been several Loooonng threads on this in some of the Cummins/Dodge forums with no detrimental effects noted. A side benefit was a supposed mileage improvement.

I actually didn't know about the ULSD switch when it occurred. Just noted that the old Dodge wasn't getting the mileage it used to...down to 22-23mpg from 25-26. And it seemed louder. This in spite of using PS White Bottle religiously.

Stumbled on the 2 cycle oil idea thanks to a link here at TBN and thought it worth a try; especially as the CTD is '94 vintage and not designed for ULSD. Dunno whether it's helping the pump or the injectors, but it sure helped mileage...for whatever reason. And it seems quieter. The Ford 4000, another golden oldy that probably needs help with ULSD, also got quieter with a little 2 cycle mixed in.

Confession: I am putting a little in the Kubotas as well, though they probably don't need it. No more than 3 oz./5 gal. Like the way it makes 'em purr.
Bob

 

[DrainPondDesign]

If I remember correctly Acetone will dissolve some gasketing materials that are gasoline proof (i.e. Permatex, gasket shellacs & tank sealants).

An unmixed high concentration of Acetone pooled somewhere in the fuel system might produce a problem.

Also I suspect that the BTU content of Acetone is lower than gasoline so it should produce lower HP & miles per gallon. Of course if you get it for free?

 

[Soundguy]

For regular use.. all things being equall.. I think I'd use power service.

Soundguy

In my case the reason for the 2-cycle oil is to restore some of the lubricity lost when we switched to ULSD. There have been several Loooonng threads on this in some of the Cummins/Dodge forums with no detrimental effects noted. A side benefit was a supposed mileage improvement.

I actually didn't know about the ULSD switch when it occurred. Just noted that the old Dodge wasn't getting the mileage it used to...down to 22-23mpg from 25-26. And it seemed louder. This in spite of using PS White Bottle religiously.

Stumbled on the 2 cycle oil idea thanks to a link here at TBN and thought it worth a try; especially as the CTD is '94 vintage and not designed for ULSD. Dunno whether it's helping the pump or the injectors, but it sure helped mileage...for whatever reason. And it seems quieter. The Ford 4000, another golden oldy that probably needs help with ULSD, also got quieter with a little 2 cycle mixed in.

Confession: I am putting a little in the Kubotas as well, though they probably don't need it. No more than 3 oz./5 gal. Like the way it makes 'em purr.
Bob

 

[patrick_g]

If I remember correctly Acetone will dissolve some gasketing materials that are gasoline proof (i.e. Permatex, gasket shellacs & tank sealants).

An unmixed high concentration of Acetone pooled somewhere in the fuel system might produce a problem.

Also I suspect that the BTU content of Acetone is lower than gasoline so it should produce lower HP & miles per gallon. Of course if you get it for free?

That is what I thought too but he got 16 years and 200,000 plus trouble free miles out of his Honda sedan. He and my sis in law called me for my birthday and I asked about it again. He still does it but not to the Honda mentioned as it was replaced some years ago. (Maybe the acetone finally ate something?? ) I guess he uses a small enough percentage of acetone that it is not immediately harmful to at least some cars (his, apparently.) I still think it is likely "snake oil" but I can't convince him of that when I have no actual results showing to the contrary, just vague suppositions about maybe it will swell up some seal or O ring or dissolve something or... I'm sure he doesn't add enough acetone to be an issue about the energy content of the acetone vs gasoline.

As far as the Marvel Mystery oil goes... Surely it isn't needed but I have no evidence that when used in moderation that it causes harm except maybe more air pollution. If I were to use MM oil I'd be interested in the inverse vacuum control that puts more oil directly into the intake manifold when the engine is working harder and little or none when it is at idle or coasting.

By the way, his 200,000 plus (and current car) was/is a mix of stop and go and freeway commute at varying speeds from stop and go to 85MPH cruise. He doesn't pamper his cars as regards acceleration and such. With automatics he often shifts to lower gears to take "S" curves well above the speed recommended by the yellow diamond shaped signs.

Pat

 

[jsborn]

Pat
You made reference to a DIY waste oil heater do you have the plans or could you send some info on this unit? I would be interested in making one for my shop. PM me if you don't want to send it in this thread.

Thanks

 

[patrick_g]

Pat
You made reference to a DIY waste oil heater do you have the plans or could you send some info on this unit? I would be interested in making one for my shop. PM me if you don't want to send it in this thread.

Thanks

Please see the new thread I put my response into. It is in PROJECTS. This will give anyone with input or additional questions a better place to cuss and discuss the issues.

Pat

 

[Red55]

Guys- just read a lubricity study on the "Diesel Place" where several popular additives were tested. . . check it out Two cycle oil tested pretty well but NOT recommended because 2007 emissions. Me, I'm changing from power service to stanadyne (availablity) IMO ED

 

[tomd999]

Hiya,

To the original topic of the post, I have one of those 2 stroke oil cups, never really use it anymore, numbers have been shrinking for years now they are too small to read. I buy the one shot Amsoil 100-1 2 stroke and dump it in with the gas.

As far as trying to measure ratios, keep in mind that the larger the quantities mixed, the less error you will introduce when measuring. (unless of course you use the gulg glug method)

I would never put any used oil products into the fuel of a Diesel I wanted to keep. No matter how fine you filter it or how clean it looks, it contains metals and other particles that will wear the pump and injectors. If it's used engine oil, it also contains acids and fuel residues. The cost to replace an injector pump will set you back at least 2K (Cummins Bosch rotary last time I looked), you will not save that amount by running used oil in the fuel.

I tried a little 2 stroke for a while, didn't notice a difference.

I do however wonder if adding a little EP90 gear oil to the fuel would do anything... It's main anti wear additive is sulfur, exactly what they took out of the fuel.... Hmmmmmm, now where did I put that left over bottle....... Don't add too much, sulfur is corrosive to yellow metals. (fuel gauge senders)

Tom

 

[Skyco]

From what I've read sulfur is not a lubricant.
It is the process of removing the sulfur that also removes whatever the good lubrication properties are in the base oil.
So don't anyone get any ideas about adding sulfur to their fuel
As for adding gear oil....hmmm not so sure about how wise that is either.
I think I'll stick to certified diesel fuel additives or in the case of 2-stroke oil at least it is meant to be burned- 2k for an injection pump is bad enough- try buying a set of Powerstroke electronic injectors

 

[patrick_g]

Skyco, For the most part you are wasting your finger's effort posting advice against adding various snake oil faith healing potions to fuel. It just seems there are people who accept on faith for whatever reason that their particular acumen in selecting and adding various substances (aka adulterants) to their fuel will transcend reality and give them some special edge.

Logic can't combat the illogical. Facts are useless when confronting faith based beliefs.

It is amusing sometimes to consider the additives must be working as the user thinks it is so.

I sprinkle 1/37 of a teaspoon of kosher salt on the front porch steps during the full moon and it keeps away elephants. Since I started doing it there has been no elephants on our front porch or even in the yard.

Pat