MF 165 knocking

[DaButcher]

Worked on the injection pump leaks today. Typical of the CAV pump that the kill shaft, accelerator shaft and top cover were leaking. I won't go into detail about the procedure because that has been discussed many times on this forum and others. I will offer pics that other post are lacking in. Orings and gasket at the local dealer were less than $5.00

The nuts inside the black circle are the only thing that holds the top cover on and are somewhat fragile so don't over-torque on reassembly, also they have a sealing washer under them.

Remove the top cover gently

Pay attention to where the spring hooks in what someone else coined as the "tombstone". Mine was in the bottom slot, also on the other end of the spring there are three choices so check that location also

A view of the "tombstone" circled with green and the kill lever circled in red

In red is the bottom of the kill shaft that fits into previously mentioned kill lever

In green is the bottom of the accelerator shaft with a good view of the three spring choice holes, mine was in the center (look close and wear in that hole is obvious)

Both shafts shown, the orings were hard and brittle causing the leaks. I installed new orings with a generous amount of Vaseline in the center groove and a little on the orings.

The gasket has a couple tabs, tab goes under the plate as shown in the last pic.

Ran it for half an hour and no more leaks on the injection pump.

 

[The kid]

What kind of sealant was used. It looked like caramel chewing gum in picture two and three. -kid

 

[DaButcher]

LOL, it looks bad but was just a red gasket that was diesel soaked

What kind of sealant was used. It looked like caramel chewing gum in picture two and three. -kid

 

[DaButcher]

Put the old wires in the garbage where they belonged and made up my own harness.




After months of looking finally bought a 2005 6ft Bush Hog for half of new price. Still working on and getting to know this tractor so I shredded a couple hours with the tractor naked (naked tractor, not me :steeringwheel. The tractor still needs some TLC on things like PTO seal, clutch adjustment (grinds when engaging PTO), going to put in better gauges for oil pressure and coolant temp. (don't like the Chinese made ones I got from the MF dealer)

 

[The kid]

Nice job on the wiring. It looks like you used the same type of ign/starter switch. More versatile. Looking great DaButcher. :thumbsup: -kid

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Very nice photos. I need to get that done now on the old 265 I got from my late FIL.

You will like the 6' bushhog. Ours came with a very very heavy 7' bushhog and it makes the weighted front end still too light and will just cut out the tractor tires the way he had them set up. Since I have some 40 degree slopes I just left the wheels 7' wide.

 

[DaButcher]

I could have bought a new Howse 7ft that weighed 1400lb for $1750 (Bush Hog weighs 700lb I think), but decided it was to heavy for a 40+ year old tractor with OEM tires. Sounds like I made a good decesion by your explanation Gale.

Very nice photos. I need to get that done now on the old 265 I got from my late FIL.

You will like the 6' bushhog. Ours came with a very very heavy 7' bushhog and it makes the weighted front end still too light and will just cut out the tractor tires the way he had them set up. Since I have some 40 degree slopes I just left the wheels 7' wide.

 

[DaButcher]

Thanks Kid
Agree 100% on the switch being more versatile. Could even turn on the lights with the tractor not running if I had lights that work

Nice job on the wiring. It looks like you used the same type of ign/starter switch. More versatile. Looking great DaButcher. :thumbsup: -kid

 

[DaButcher]

I guess "liquid overhaul" needs to be on my list, my granddaughter calls the 165 "grandpa's ugly old tractor"

 

[The kid]

:laughing: Quoting Art Linkletter "Kid's say the darndest things."

View attachment 319642

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Paint often hurts the useful value of a tractor.

Someone said something about the blems on the old PU we are fixing up for the son. I said they were fine because when driving it I can just back up until I hear/feel impact then pull forward.

 

[DaButcher]

Funny you said that. I been thinkin it doesn't need paint until I finish the majority of clean up work the tractor was bought for on 18 acres that we had trees cut off of because wouldn't won't to scratch the new paint to much.

Paint often hurts the useful value of a tractor.

Someone said something about the blems on the old PU we are fixing up for the son. I said they were fine because when driving it I can just back up until I hear/feel impact then pull forward.

 

[DaButcher]

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[redman135]

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I see the oil pressure gauge appears to be factory original. If the gauge fills with oil dump it before it explodes. Mine did, I had hot oil and glass shards on the side of my face.By a fluke I had just looked away, so I still have both eyes.

 

[DaButcher]

Good advise, but all the gauges shown I put in new. Glad you didn't have serious injury from yours.

I see the oil pressure gauge appears to be factory original. If the gauge fills with oil dump it before it explodes. Mine did, I had hot oil and glass shards on the side of my face.By a fluke I had just looked away, so I still have both eyes.

 

[Dismounted]

Sounds like someone used to much starting fluid on it to me, and shattered the piston sleeve. It is possible to replace it without removing the engine from the transmission. I would remove the front end, like some one said earlier, it could break the block if it slips. Just did a complete rebuild on mine. Maybe around $500, that was having the crank turned, new main and rod bearings, one new connecting rod, all new pistons and rings, and an upper and lower gasket set.

Look closely before removing the head, there is an oil line that runs from the block to the head and you will bust it unless you remove it 1st.

Good luck, and it is rewarding and fun.

 

[sd455dan]

Sounds like someone used to much starting fluid on it to me, and shattered the piston sleeve. It is possible to replace it without removing the engine from the transmission. I would remove the front end, like some one said earlier, it could break the block if it slips. Just did a complete rebuild on mine. Maybe around $500, that was having the crank turned, new main and rod bearings, one new connecting rod, all new pistons and rings, and an upper and lower gasket set.

Look closely before removing the head, there is an oil line that runs from the block to the head and you will bust it unless you remove it 1st.

Good luck, and it is rewarding and fun.

you might want to read the thread.
it was a spun rod bearing and the op has done a great job of rebuilding the engine.
Excellent pictures and info and a great read:thumbsup:

 

[DaButcher]

Approaching 200hrs since the engine rebuilt and still running strong! Only issue was replacing alternator and belt.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Approaching 200hrs since the engine rebuilt and still running strong! Only issue was replacing alternator and belt.

Awesome report. Should be good for 2000 hours or much longer. Thanks for the detailed photos too.

 

[DaButcher]

Dragging up a old thread about my engine rebuild. The engine held up great and didn't ever do much else to keep the tractor working. Put about 500 hours on it. About a year ago I bought a 2012 JD 5045E 4wd with loader. The MF was sold and was going to be shipped to Ghana West Africa. The purchaser was originally from Ghana and was donating it to a school there for grounds maintenance. I was so impressed by his action that I gave him a few hundred dollors back and told him to get something else useful for the school with it.