MF1754 smoking/DPF malfunctioning?

[NewLight]

I have an update regarding the thermostat as a possible cause of this issue. Yesterday day I picked up a I/R thermometer and checked temps at the top rad hose (center), lower rad hose (as close to center as I could get), radiator cap, lower rad tank (same spot every time), and block(same spot every time), at specific time intervals.

<<<<<<<<<---------------idle---------------------->>>><<<1500-2k rpms>
====12:50==1:00==1:10==1:30====1:45==2:00<------->4:00
T/Hose-28F===56F===60F===79F===100F===114F<------->116F
B/Hose-28F===66F===67F===97F===95F====99F<-------> 90F
R/Cap- 25F===30F===32F===75F===105F===112F<------->115F
B/Tank-26F===60F===73F===97F===97F ====99F <------->105F
Block- 29F===92F===99F===136F===136F==151F<------->161F

Between the hours of 2 and 4 I used to the tractor to move and grade dirt. I'm talking full buckets of dirt for 2hrs going up and down hills across a distance of approx 300yrds from the dirt pile to the work site and when I finished I took readings again. According to the service manager the thermostat should open at 170F, you'll notice I never got close to 170. Also notice that the temps at the top/bottom hoses and top/bottom of the radiator steadily increased from a cold start with no load at idle. It seems like the thermostat was to some degree already open and allowing circulation from the start.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

there will be a little by pass in the thermostat. I agree it looks to me like the thermostat is sticking open. I do not think it is getting hot enough fast enough. Should come up to the 170 fast.... then open up. be interesting to see figures on one that works correct. I am guessing as I have not seen one that is correct. What is fast?, faster than 20 min at an idle and 30 degrees is not that cold. be interesting to see at -20.

 

[NewLight]

Mine is the 1742 and the most bars I've seen is maybe 4 but mostly 3 for coolant temp. Let me say, i WORK this tractor fir everything its got. Even when brush hogging hard with a 6ft in the hot summers. Looks like we are both in the same boat!! Same issues and still no fixes. Ever since my dealer regen, I do smell the exhaust more and it may just be me, but seems a little down on power.

I've not reached four bars ever that I can recall, ever

 

[NewLight]

there will be a little by pass in the thermostat. I agree it looks to me like the thermostat is sticking open. I do not think it is getting hot enough fast enough. Should come up to the 170 fast.... then open up. be interesting to see figures on one that works correct. I am guessing as I have not seen one that is correct. What is fast?, faster than 20 min at an idle and 30 degrees is not that cold. be interesting to see at -20.

That day it was 48F when I started and finished, that defiantly should have been enough. In fact it was the warmest day we've had around here in a few weeks. Also worth mentioning I think is as soon as I started driving across my property it started bellowing smoke for roughly 45-50 sec.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

I wonder if you could just clamp the upper or lower radiator hose off and see what happens? Might be able to control engine temp that way? al least to make some tests. It will smoke like that it is in cold mode. On the truck side anyway. they will derate when the dpf starts to plug up. I would think it would turn on check engine light when it does that. The dpf's will get to a point where either normal or manual regen will clean dpf. they then need to be removed and cleaned.

could have it manually cleaned see if that improves things and that would tell you if dpf was plugging and that would tell you regen is not running. I would not call for a regen if it never gets warm enough. it will just tell you its plugged. so, there is no regen to cancel or regen that fails, so I am thinking it wouldn't turn on check engine, then until it plugs up. Check around there is different places that will clean the dpf, shouldn't have to go to dealer for manual cleaning. my guess is they send out anyway.
just my thoughts.

 

[NewLight]

I wonder if you could just clamp the upper or lower radiator hose off and see what happens? Might be able to control engine temp that way?

Not enough of the lower hose easily available, but the upper hose is wide open and I could do something of the sort to it. Probably I would block/cover the radiator to raise engine temps for testing.

 

[NewLight]

I call the parts department today about pricing a new thermostat. $43 and some change:shocked: plus the gasket, plus the coolant, plus tax. This just got expensive. I talked to the service manager after and he apologized for taking so long to get back to me. He has talked to someone form MF and they agree it's possible the thermostat could be stuck open. It's a 50/50 shot though. If a replacement fixes it he thinks he cover the repair under warranty or eat the cost, if it doesn't fix it the bill is mine. So most likely I'm going to just buy and replace it my self and if it works hope he can reimburse me.

 

[Phillip w]

Unless I'm missing something, you be able to pull that thermostAt out, and if it is good it will be good. Then put it in a pan of water and gradually heat the water. Thermostat should gradually open. As the water approaches about 180 degrees Fahrenheit the thermostat should be fully open. As for the price, that is the way agco operates. If Napa had the thermostat, napa probably charge you like 10 dollars. But agco knows they are the only one that has it so they are going to stick it to you. John Deere is guilty of price gouging as well.

 

[NewLight]

Then put it in a pan of water and gradually heat the water. Thermostat should gradually open. As the water approaches about 180 degrees Fahrenheit the thermostat should be fully open.

As for the price, that is the way agco operates. If Napa had the thermostat, napa probably charge you like 10 dollars. But agco knows they are the only one that has it so they are going to stick it to you. John Deere is guilty of price gouging as well.

The hot water test is already on the docket actually if I don't find it stuck open. And I was expecting something like $15 or less so yes it was quite the surprise, though I suppose maybe it shouldn't have been.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

Not enough of the lower hose easily available, but the upper hose is wide open and I could do something of the sort to it. Probably I would block/cover the radiator to raise engine temps for testing.

Chances are there is to much water moving a crossed the radiator to do much of anything by covering the radiator. By clamping off the hose you will be doing the same thing the thermostat does.
Messing with the coolant is the issue. The boiling water test is not definitive. If you remove the thermostat replace it no matter what the test tells you. The test is just piece of mind.
When you pull something apart there is almost always collateral damage. The small bolts holding the thermostat housing on like to snap off. The radiator pet cock never works. If you do not pump the coolant out of the radiator you almost always end up with a bath.
Don't get me wrong not trying to talk you out of replacing the thermostat. That is where I would start. Then run the above test again to be sure it is getting warm faster. It may still not run right as the DPF my have issues. So you might have to have it cleaned. So, be sure to have tests before and after the thermostat is replaced.
Where i am headed with that is you could put the thermostat in and it may still run poorly, even tho that was the cause.