MF1754 smoking/DPF malfunctioning?

[truckdiagnostics]

If it was mine I would get me a 6 pack of beer my lawn chair and that new IR thermometer you have clamp the radiator hose off. Run at idle to see how fast the temp comes up. Then figure out how to get it to 170 at a high idle. Then leave it there for 1/2 hour and see if it will regen its self and the issue goes away. I have found most good troubleshooting requires beer.:drink:

 

[Phillip w]

Chances are there is to much water moving a crossed the radiator to do much of anything by covering the radiator. By clamping off the hose you will be doing the same thing the thermostat does.
Messing with the coolant is the issue. The boiling water test is not definitive. If you remove the thermostat replace it no matter what the test tells you. The test is just piece of mind.
When you pull something apart there is almost always collateral damage. The small bolts holding the thermostat housing on like to snap off. The radiator pet cock never works. If you do not pump the coolant out of the radiator you almost always end up with a bath.
Don't get me wrong not trying to talk you out of replacing the thermostat. That is where I would start. Then run the above test again to be sure it is getting warm faster. It may still not run right as the DPF my have issues. So you might have to have it cleaned. So, be sure to have tests before and after the thermostat is replaced.
Where i am headed with that is you could put the thermostat in and it may still run poorly, even tho that was the cause.

I guess I don't quite understand. Now I'm a little old school. Let's say you got an old Ford pickup with a 390 engine. Let's say it just won't warm up and the heater is about to freeze you to death. You pretty much know it is the thermostat. So you go to Napa and get a new thermostat. The first thing I do is double check the new thermostat in a pan of water and warm the water. Now, i know everything is getting computerized these does. However, is the way you deal with a suspect thermostat changed??? Am I going about things wrong??? You thoughts as I grapple with trying to understand this new stuff.

 

[NewLight]

By clamping off the hose you will be doing the same thing the thermostat does.

If you remove the thermostat replace it no matter what the test tells you. The test is just piece of mind.

Then run the above test again to be sure it is getting warm faster.

Frankly clamping the upper hose would be easier and certainly more effective than covering the radiator.

If I take the thermostat out I'm absolutely putting in a new one.

I will retest for sure.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

I guess I don't quite understand. Now I'm a little old school. Let's say you got an old Ford pickup with a 390 engine. Let's say it just won't warm up and the heater is about to freeze you to death. You pretty much know it is the thermostat. So you go to Napa and get a new thermostat. The first thing I do is double check the new thermostat in a pan of water and warm the water. Now, i know everything is getting computerized these does. However, is the way you deal with a suspect thermostat changed??? Am I going about things wrong??? You thoughts as I grapple with trying to understand this new stuff.

Your thinking is still correct. Its just that i have seen them work ok in a pan of water, still thrown a new stat in and it has corrected the issue. I can't explain it. Also, you have the cost of the antifreeze. For fifty dollars I wouldn't pull it apart to not put a new stat in it. There is not that many of these tractors out there. There is what two or three with a very similar issues on this forum. makes me think there maybe either an issue with there stats or a design issue. I'm back to clamp the hose to get it to rise fast to see what happens. I don't know how they design a fast engine temp rise into an engine cooling system. or i should say i would have to make some guesses.

 

[NewLight]

If it was mine I would get me a 6 pack of beer my lawn chair and that new IR thermometer you have clamp the radiator hose off. Run at idle to see how fast the temp comes up. Then figure out how to get it to 170 at a high idle. Then leave it there for 1/2 hour and see if it will regen its self and the issue goes away.:

Minus the six pack I plan to do this.

 

[rmc125mx]

I am beyond livid with this issue. I am to the T having the same exact thing with my 1742. Went the dealer route, they said nothing wrong. Smoked last night and has been stinking ever since dealer forced regen ( even though soot only showed 4 bars). Start it up today, not even 10 hours after having back from dealer, same beeping and regen light on!!!!!!!!!!!! Soot only shows two bars and temp at 3 bars. I NEED MY TRACTOR TO RUN!!! Blocked off the radiator and ran wide open to try and raise temps, ran for 40 min, no change in lights. Got pissed, shoveled off my trailer, hooked it up to the truck. Shut tractor off to relive pressure in my 3rd function so I can remove the plow. Turn it back on to load on the trailer, guess what? Beeping has stopped and light is off.... should I gamble and run it or gamble and have the dealer charge me and say nothing is wrong?? I'm frustrated just like you are

 

[truckdiagnostics]

I do not understand the regen light going out after cycling the key. My question is, is the regen light for it is regening or it needs to regen? what does the owners manual say for the light. Still sounds to me like the smoking is cold mode do not understand light for regen going out. there is cases when the dpf will plug up and you can manual regen and they will plug back up. but typically you can see that in the software when you are forcing the regen.
if it was a thermostat sticking or not warming up fast it would or could go something like. smoke for a while, start to plug up dpf, warm up, then call for regen(DPF right on edge of needing manual cleaning so plugging up fast), after it warms up. cycle key, light goes out until runs for period of time, tractor warm call for regen. So, what does the regen light that is on mean?

 

[rmc125mx]

Update: so the light did go out once after I cycled the key bit after I went in the house to watch the steelers lose, I came back out and started it. No light but then a minute or two later, along came the beeping and regen light. I have been the only the only one operating it since brand new, 290 hours. Never had one hiccup last winter. Never skipped a auto regen. Last time I went to the dealer in limp mode, it was at 4 soot bars. Tonight, went into limp mode then barely would start. Took 4-5 tried to get it running to load on the trailer. Same exact symptoms as last dealer visit except this time it's 2 soot bars and maybe 10 hours since it got it home.

The regen light is coming on with the check engine light. Normal engine temp, well normal as I've always seen the gauge. Ran great last night except for smoking and smells at times. No request ever for a auto regen and not able to force a regen seeing as the soot bars are at two. I'm a master technician by trade and I hate that I cannot hook up my scan tool and figure this out.... completely helpless. I even spent the money and got the factor service manuals but that can only diag me so far on a computer controlled dpf and common rail system. Tell you what, I am not going to pay a service fee this time. Not even 2 years old

 

[truckdiagnostics]

mc125mx i do not buy anything if i can not get the software. My current skid loader is a bobcat 7753 I have pretty much rebuilt it. I have great relationship with the dealer. I have had them out to fix it when I physically could not. They have been trying to get me into a new one. It has electronic over hydraulic controls, great deal on the machine. Since it is a small local dealer i have become friends with the owner and the mechanic. Bottom line is i would need software to even replace the controls in order calibrate it. You can not get the software, they can't even get it for me. Needless to say I keep fixing the older machine. I am scared when I can no longer rebuild that one and need a new one. Your story scares the crap out of me. That however does not help your situation, but I can say I feel your pain. I honestly do not know what to tell you.
I know guys that have lost there trucking business because of the very issue you are having. If it was not for the delete kits. Kit that removes the DPF, there would be a lot more bankrupt trucking companies because of what you are going through. I have not seen a way to remove the dpf from a tractor. I also have not seen a lot of issues with it. I have however seen that when there is like you are having a serious lack of knowledge at the dealer level, which is what i believe is your experiencing.
You did not say what type of master tech you are but if you are in the auto field. The DPF acts like a plugged cat. And yes if you had the software you would be able to figure it out, and yes it sucks!

 

[drizler]

Mines a 1736 /400 hrs and occasionally it does decide not to regen. Then I park it and leave it revving 1800 with the EBrake set. Once it warms up it will usually take over and do it’s thing. It may well do it while using it but I keep it running hard at over or 1800. Shut it off and or let it idle down too long and it doesn’t completely finish and you are looking at it a few weeks down road.
I’ve tried making mine do manual around 2 bars and it ignores me. Mine has one of those idiot alarms that will drive you insane if you have to ignore it. Tractor acts fine but you will go crazy getting chores done. You couldn’t stand waiting till it begins to act up.
Sucky as it is my advice to those who get way up there at 4 bars. Park it, get the damned EPA crap running. Then in the immortal words of Cousin Eddy talking about snots with a little Mississippi leg hound in him. “ It’s best to just let him finish”. It’s a 50 hr menace inflicted on us all anymore.
I assume dealer did the computer flash update if needed. Early 1736 like mine have that issue, I live with it no big deal.