Min tractor size for repairing long gravel driveway with potholes?

[dodge man]

The only problem with an older 2 wheel drive tractor is the often don’t have a loader. It would also be pretty hard on his yard for other uses.

 

[repete]

Before you do anything to maintain your driveway ($), address drainage. If you have a driveway with water up to the level of the road surface at times, you will never be happy.
It has been probably 20 years or more since I have used any sort of "digging" device on my driveway. Mostly because I know a few inches down is LARGE crushed rock for the base. Do not stir that base rock up or you will regret it.
I have only used a landscape rake on my driveway for years. Easy to pull gravel back across the road and maintain the "crown" which aids in drainage.

 

[JWR]

The only problem with an older 2 wheel drive tractor is the often don’t have a loader. It would also be pretty hard on his yard for other uses.

I agree with Dodge Man except to say that lacking a loader is NOT the only problem! In my opinion an old, large 2WD tractor is tons of trouble for you with little or no benefit. a) no loader b) you will regret lacking 4WD every day of ownership. A 2wd tractor is a stuck tractor at some point for no good reason. You will never regret getting a 4WD. c) No belly mower possibility d) lack of many attachments you may want in the future, on and on. From what you have told us and shown us a compact 4wd in the 24-40 hp range is most appropo.

Still have not heard how much you will be mowing, how big the overall property is, etc. Brush to cut or no ?

 

[wisconsitom]

I spread a lot of gravel with my 25-horse Bobcat with FEL. Fun! Mine has auto-float on that loader, which is intended to be used in reverse. It works great but I did have to learn how to maximize its capabilities. Basically, wherever the bucket sets down, a little divot will be formed. To avoid that, and get everything level and smooth, I found you want to begin reversing tractor before bucket edge hits ground. A running start and your good. 25 hp will easily get the job done, if it's anything like my machine. Some rear weight will be helpful. Something hanging off the back is best in this regard, but mine just has beet juice in the rears. I've had no troubles with lack of back-end weight.

 

[btarb24]

Thanks for all the great info and opinions on each side of the spectrum. It's great to hear it all to avoid overlooking a perspective.

In this case I wont actually use the tractor for any mowing/brushing whatsoever. We have about 2-3 acres of grass which i just cut with a zero turn. Then there's 40 acres of forest with trails behind the house. We haven't lived here more than a couple months, but i imagine after some years of 4 wheeler use we may end up with some rutting in the forest trails. I may want to take and plane down the trails to take out any severe ruts, so a smaller width tractor may be handy. For comparison, we scaled down our UTV and chose a mule SX since the width was only 52". I might have to make more haul trips due to the smaller bed, but we've got plenty of time on our hands

Similarly, with the snow and driveway maintenance I actually don't mind having the extra seat time associated with a smaller tractor and more passes. I work from home and so there's no urgency to clear the driveway before heading to work each day, etc. My biggest concern was that the scarifiers lowered or a full boxblade load wouldn't cause the tractor to bog down to a halt too frequently (occasionally is fine). A secondary concern is having enough traction in the winter to go back up the hill to return to the house, though that one seems like it'll work out alright as long as I throw some chains on loaded R4 tires?

I went and talked to a new holland salesman yesterday and he suggested a workmaster 25s would be an appropriate size. I asked why he wouldn't recommend the boomer 24 and he said he just didn't see me needing the extra size for just the driveway tasks. Without experience with the tasks at hand it sure is hard for me to feel assured it's what that perfect size is though! I think i'm going to shop in the 25hp sub to - 30hp compact range to find the best value. I may regret it, but I think i'd rather buy too small and possibly deal with some occasional frustration than buy too big just to be safe.

The used market is a bit tough at the moment but it's my preference to buy used if i can find one with a loader and front mount blower. However, used prices are super high right now and i do need something by the winter so i may just bite the bullet and buy new (something i rarely do with anything). Seems I have a nice selection of brands within the 20-40 mile range: Kioti, New Holland, LS, Deere, Yanmar, Kubota, Massey, Branson, Mahindra, TYM, McCormick, Zetor are what i was able to locate on google maps so far.

I would do my own repairs and maintenance so dealer service isn't too important to me. I think this makes premium brands like kubota and deere removed from the running if i'm buying new. Though, as a rookie it's seemingly rather tough to compare value across the brands.

 

[airbiscuit]

"I may regret it, but I think i'd rather buy too small and possibly deal with some occasional frustration than buy too big just to be safe."

More likely - famous last words - "I wish I bought a bigger tractor".

There is a big difference in the TRACTION between a Sub Compact Utility Tractor (SCUT) and a Compact Utility Tractor. A SCUT has the same size tires and wheels as a garden tractor. The larger wheels and tires on a CUT make a huge difference in traction, even if the horsepower is the same.

Don't get me wrong, a SCUT will do work and be fun, but you will end up spinning your wheels.

 

[the old grind]

Even a 4WD can benefit from tire chains when seasonally installed or left on year around say if a tractor rarely/never has to operate on pavement and isn't used for mowing. I agree that it's important to focus on more weight/hp vs more hp/weight or size, esp for moving snow.

 

[fried1765]

Thanks for all the great info and opinions on each side of the spectrum. It's great to hear it all to avoid overlooking a perspective.

In this case I wont actually use the tractor for any mowing/brushing whatsoever. We have about 2-3 acres of grass which i just cut with a zero turn. Then there's 40 acres of forest with trails behind the house. We haven't lived here more than a couple months, but i imagine after some years of 4 wheeler use we may end up with some rutting in the forest trails. I may want to take and plane down the trails to take out any severe ruts, so a smaller width tractor may be handy. For comparison, we scaled down our UTV and chose a mule SX since the width was only 52". I might have to make more haul trips due to the smaller bed, but we've got plenty of time on our hands

Similarly, with the snow and driveway maintenance I actually don't mind having the extra seat time associated with a smaller tractor and more passes. I work from home and so there's no urgency to clear the driveway before heading to work each day, etc. My biggest concern was that the scarifiers lowered or a full boxblade load wouldn't cause the tractor to bog down to a halt too frequently (occasionally is fine). A secondary concern is having enough traction in the winter to go back up the hill to return to the house, though that one seems like it'll work out alright as long as I throw some chains on loaded R4 tires?

I went and talked to a new holland salesman yesterday and he suggested a workmaster 25s would be an appropriate size. I asked why he wouldn't recommend the boomer 24 and he said he just didn't see me needing the extra size for just the driveway tasks. Without experience with the tasks at hand it sure is hard for me to feel assured it's what that perfect size is though! I think i'm going to shop in the 25hp sub to - 30hp compact range to find the best value. I may regret it, but I think i'd rather buy too small and possibly deal with some occasional frustration than buy too big just to be safe.

The used market is a bit tough at the moment but it's my preference to buy used if i can find one with a loader and front mount blower. However, used prices are super high right now and i do need something by the winter so i may just bite the bullet and buy new (something i rarely do with anything). Seems I have a nice selection of brands within the 20-40 mile range: Kioti, New Holland, LS, Deere, Yanmar, Kubota, Massey, Branson, Mahindra, TYM, McCormick, Zetor are what i was able to locate on google maps so far.

I would do my own repairs and maintenance so dealer service isn't too important to me. I think this makes premium brands like kubota and deere removed from the running if i'm buying new. Though, as a rookie it's seemingly rather tough to compare value across the brands.

As TBN member jeff9366 so eloquently states.......BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR !!!!

 

[JWR]

In Post #45 I'm glad you said you are a rookie. There are many people on here with more years serious farming and propertyy experience than myself but at 78 I've seen a lot of tractor work in youth (where we had almost no equipment) and then much more in my 20 years of retirement (where I loaded up with lots of equipment.) One thing I learned and you will learn is the profound long-term importance of finding a good dealer and having good relations with them.

With your listing of all the dealers and brands fairly close you have a good opportunity to shop 3 or 4 brands and find what you want as well as who the best dealers are.

Like fried1765 above, I say you are way better off with a little too much tractor than you are with not enough.
That short steep section of driveway should be easy to handle snow-wise by clearing your own path downhill first. If you have not played around in deep snow much with a tractor you may be surprised how easy it is to get hung once in a while. And clearance really matters. That's one more reason to get something larger than a glorified lawn tractor.

I tend to see the cost/price situation differently than you. I would not avoid Kubota or Deere new. I would stick to Kubota, Massey, Deere and New Holland in about that order if I were you. There is safety in numbers when it comes to parts, other knowledgeable people around, etc. You can probably find what you need in all of those brands so to me it comes down to reliability, comfort for you as user and access to parts and experience.

By the way, may have missed it but I've not heard you say if you lean toward a cab versus open station and a stick versus HST driveline.

 

[bcp]

No one has ever heard:

"I wish my tractor was smaller."

"I wish my loader was weaker."

"I wish my ground clearance was less."



Bruce