Minimum HP Requirement for Subsoiler

[HamishMacCheap]

Any ideas of a minimum horsepower requirement for a single point subsoiler in hard clay? Is a 24 HP Kubota LSX2510SU sufficient?

The red clay in my area can get hard as a rock when it doesn't see rain and without someway to rip the soil, using a disc harrow, especially a light weight disc harrow, in an attempt to make food plots can be a frustrating experience.

 

[oldnslo]

You also need weight to get traction for pulling a subsoiler

I have 24 HP Branson with filled R1 tires estimate weight around 2,100 lbs without loader on and it will spin before running out of power with single subsoiler on a hard pull. It may take two or three passes to get to full 12 - 14 inch depth.

 

[HamishMacCheap]

The Kubota has ballast in the rear tires but it has industrial tires rather than ag tires. I fear this may not work in my favor.

 

[oldnslo]

The Kubota has ballast in the rear tires but it has industrial tires rather than ag tires. I fear this may not work in my favor.

Industrial tires may or may not reduce traction in hard ground since lugs on R1 may not penetrate the soil either.

I suspect you can pull single shank just not full depth on first pass. For food plot how deep do you need to go?

 

[ptsg]

I pull my homemade 2 shank ripper the full 16" deep in hard clay with my 35hp tractor, but with R1 tires.

 

[leonz]

You need to spread gypsum on your soil to break up the clay,
preferably mined gypsum as it will be less expensive to use and
easier to spread with less waste.

 

[JeepHead]

Any ideas of a minimum horsepower requirement for a single point subsoiler in hard clay? Is a 24 HP Kubota LSX2510SU sufficient?

The red clay in my area can get hard as a rock when it doesn't see rain and without someway to rip the soil, using a disc harrow, especially a light weight disc harrow, in an attempt to make food plots can be a frustrating experience.

I have a subsoiler that I bought for my 2502 and have no issues using it. I have hydraulic top link which makes it super easy to get it started and allow it to sink in.

 

[SmallChange]

I used a subsoiler/ripper with my 15 hp Kubota to prepare my lawn, including pulling up tree roots. More power and weight would have been helpful, would have been faster, but it did get the job done.

 

[HamishMacCheap]

For food plot how deep do you need to go?

Probably not much more than 6 to 8 inches since the seeds (oats most often) are spread on top of the food plot after ripping and discing. I use a poor man's cultipacker (an 8' 6X6 with chains) to smooth the ground before distributing the seed, fertilizer and lime in a 3 point rotary spreader and then, after sowing, to cover the product.

I had a four wheel drive Kubota MX 4700 and it was all it wanted to do to pull a seven shank spring cultivator/chisel plow. I ended up removing the center shank, reducing the shank count to six and it generally had no problem after that.

I sold there 4700 and the heavier implements and over the period of a year plus or so, I have downsized my equipment and implements to smaller and lighter.

In any event, I speculate if I can rip to 8 inches I will be fine. I often spend more time running the disc harrow after ripping since ripping produces large clumps of soil.

Thanks to all above who provided comments.

 

[HamishMacCheap]

Industrial tires may or may not reduce traction in hard ground since lugs on R1 may not penetrate the soil either.

True.

 

[dieselscout80]

Are you sub-soiling new ground or previous cropped / worked ground?

 

[HamishMacCheap]

Generally, established food plots. No stumps and no large rocks. Over the years, I have removed the really large rocks and now, when I find one that is baseball sized, it is a rarity.

However, I sold two out of three hunt properties this year (my reason for downsizing equipment) but I think I would like to pick up one smaller tract to develop as a hunt property. If that happens I will be dealing with new food plot development.

That said, I sold the MX 4700 and bought a JD 3043D and the Kubota but if I can successfully use a subsoiler and a light disc harrow to cultivate, I can transport the Kubota, the subsoiler, the light disc harrow and the 3pt spin spreader together on the equipment trailer and have all equipment at the property without having to make a trip one day to move the 3043D and a five shank chisel plow and another trip the following day to transport the other equipment and then two days to return the equipment to my house.

I am at the point in life where easy is my friend.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Why not just use a tiller and do it all with one piece of equipment? In my opinion, you can do a much better quicker job with a good tiller than with a subsoiler and a disc. You're not really going deep enough to justify the hassle of a subsoiler (imo).

Also no need to swap implements. EASY

 

[HamishMacCheap]

I don't own a 3pt rotary tiller and I don't want to buy one now. I speculate they are in excess of $2K now, probably more. Plus, the rare baseball sized rock would do it no favors.

Thanks for the idea, it would make life more simple.

 

[CH4Ohio]

I don't own a 3pt rotary tiller and I don't want to buy one now. I speculate they are in excess of $2K now, probably more. Plus, the rare baseball sized rock would do it no favors.

Thanks for the idea, it would make life more simple.

Got it. You're right, like everything tillers are expensive.

I have a 5' KK tiller that does a great job. Would be the perfect size for your tractor too, I think.

My only experience with a subsoiler on a smaller tractor was painful. The tractor could barely lift it out of the ground because the shank was long and the 3-point just didn't have the height. When it was buried, my 30 HP Kubota would spin in 4-wheel drive much of the time -- especially uphill. When I was able to pull it, it just made a rough mess that took too much time to clean up.

I also tried one to plow in a cable where I didn't need to go as deep. Still made a terrible mess and I ended up renting a trencher to finish it up.

Thus my lack of enthusiasm with subsoilers . . .

Good luck with your project!

 

[HamishMacCheap]

My only experience with a subsoiler on a smaller tractor was painful.

Not what I wanted to hear but the advice is useful.

Thanks - Hamish

 

[rgr33]

I use a subsoiler every spring, when the soil is moist, but not wet, to cut invasive sequoia roots encroaching into my vineyard.

I use my 33 hp LS to pull it, the first couple of years were a challenge, as some of the roots were 4-5 inches thick, and had to be chopped out. Now it sinks in deep and removes the 2 inches thick roots without much effort.

I wouldn’t even think about using it in the summer, as the soil here gets rock hard when it dries out

 

[RayIN]

My subsoiler has the capacity to sink 30" deep, then the frame scrapes the ground. I used to pull it with my Ferguson 30 about 12" deep, with some difficulty. My current 50HP tractor will pull it as stated in the first sentence.
The original purpose of a subsoiler is to break up the hard-pan so water has a way to drain out of the soil when over-saturated.
If you have low spots in a field that hold water after a rain, use a subsoiler as deep as it will penetrate.
Then run a rear tire over the roughed up top soil to mash it back down. 2 days later it will be hard to see where the subsoiler was used.

 

[generic farmer]

I can't answer your question, but I will say, throw some daikon radish in the plot. Those will help break up the soil as the are long and do ok in compact soil. Next your you won't have to struggle as much. Also try some gypsum. It helps.

It took me about 7 years to get from Clay to good soil in garden. Still not at great soil in the plot, but I am working it still get compost, organic material in that dirt helps. That's why I like daikon

 

[ConawayFarms]

Might be a bit on the lighter side for really tough clay, but it can still manage in softer conditions or after some rain. You could also try going slower to avoid overloading the tractor or consider adding weight for traction