Minimum HP Requirement for Subsoiler

[dieselscout80]

Are you sub-soiling new ground or previous cropped / worked ground?

 

[HamishMacCheap]

Generally, established food plots. No stumps and no large rocks. Over the years, I have removed the really large rocks and now, when I find one that is baseball sized, it is a rarity.

However, I sold two out of three hunt properties this year (my reason for downsizing equipment) but I think I would like to pick up one smaller tract to develop as a hunt property. If that happens I will be dealing with new food plot development.

That said, I sold the MX 4700 and bought a JD 3043D and the Kubota but if I can successfully use a subsoiler and a light disc harrow to cultivate, I can transport the Kubota, the subsoiler, the light disc harrow and the 3pt spin spreader together on the equipment trailer and have all equipment at the property without having to make a trip one day to move the 3043D and a five shank chisel plow and another trip the following day to transport the other equipment and then two days to return the equipment to my house.

I am at the point in life where easy is my friend.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Why not just use a tiller and do it all with one piece of equipment? In my opinion, you can do a much better quicker job with a good tiller than with a subsoiler and a disc. You're not really going deep enough to justify the hassle of a subsoiler (imo).

Also no need to swap implements. EASY

 

[HamishMacCheap]

I don't own a 3pt rotary tiller and I don't want to buy one now. I speculate they are in excess of $2K now, probably more. Plus, the rare baseball sized rock would do it no favors.

Thanks for the idea, it would make life more simple.

 

[CH4Ohio]

I don't own a 3pt rotary tiller and I don't want to buy one now. I speculate they are in excess of $2K now, probably more. Plus, the rare baseball sized rock would do it no favors.

Thanks for the idea, it would make life more simple.

Got it. You're right, like everything tillers are expensive.

I have a 5' KK tiller that does a great job. Would be the perfect size for your tractor too, I think.

My only experience with a subsoiler on a smaller tractor was painful. The tractor could barely lift it out of the ground because the shank was long and the 3-point just didn't have the height. When it was buried, my 30 HP Kubota would spin in 4-wheel drive much of the time -- especially uphill. When I was able to pull it, it just made a rough mess that took too much time to clean up.

I also tried one to plow in a cable where I didn't need to go as deep. Still made a terrible mess and I ended up renting a trencher to finish it up.

Thus my lack of enthusiasm with subsoilers . . .

Good luck with your project!

 

[HamishMacCheap]

My only experience with a subsoiler on a smaller tractor was painful.

Not what I wanted to hear but the advice is useful.

Thanks - Hamish

 

[rgr33]

I use a subsoiler every spring, when the soil is moist, but not wet, to cut invasive sequoia roots encroaching into my vineyard.

I use my 33 hp LS to pull it, the first couple of years were a challenge, as some of the roots were 4-5 inches thick, and had to be chopped out. Now it sinks in deep and removes the 2 inches thick roots without much effort.

I wouldn’t even think about using it in the summer, as the soil here gets rock hard when it dries out

 

[RayIN]

My subsoiler has the capacity to sink 30" deep, then the frame scrapes the ground. I used to pull it with my Ferguson 30 about 12" deep, with some difficulty. My current 50HP tractor will pull it as stated in the first sentence.
The original purpose of a subsoiler is to break up the hard-pan so water has a way to drain out of the soil when over-saturated.
If you have low spots in a field that hold water after a rain, use a subsoiler as deep as it will penetrate.
Then run a rear tire over the roughed up top soil to mash it back down. 2 days later it will be hard to see where the subsoiler was used.

 

[generic farmer]

I can't answer your question, but I will say, throw some daikon radish in the plot. Those will help break up the soil as the are long and do ok in compact soil. Next your you won't have to struggle as much. Also try some gypsum. It helps.

It took me about 7 years to get from Clay to good soil in garden. Still not at great soil in the plot, but I am working it still get compost, organic material in that dirt helps. That's why I like daikon

 

[ConawayFarms]

Might be a bit on the lighter side for really tough clay, but it can still manage in softer conditions or after some rain. You could also try going slower to avoid overloading the tractor or consider adding weight for traction