Modified my drawbar to actually be useful

   / Modified my drawbar to actually be useful #21  
I'm hauling people including children on a small light trailer up and down hills.... would hate to dump them out because they unexpectedly moved to the back and made my lift arms suddenly go up
Good point, the fixed height is essential for that use.

I've twice now had my watering trailer do that when I bumped the lift lever. Its so heavy that I had to use the HiLift jack behind the trailer to tip it back down. I finally set the raise-lower limits to a narrow range for that application.
 
   / Modified my drawbar to actually be useful #22  
I jus' be keerful and try not to jack knife the trailer while backin up.
 
   / Modified my drawbar to actually be useful #23  
I carefully plan all my trailer outings here on the property. Almost always have an escape route going forward. I wish the Horst running gear had a way of locking the steerage - just for backing up. I'm getting better - but quite a ways to go until I would consider myself as good.
 
   / Modified my drawbar to actually be useful #24  
Good point, the fixed height is essential for that use.

I've twice now had my watering trailer do that when I bumped the lift lever. Its so heavy that I had to use the HiLift jack behind the trailer to tip it back down. I finally set the raise-lower limits to a narrow range for that application.
I now pull off the drawbar like the OP does but in the olden days when I pulled things with a bar on the three point arms, I learned to add stay straps (like the 8N, 9N) to prevent the arms from spiking up and killing someone.

After carefully loading furniture grade ash logs on a trailer I hit something coming out of the woods, dumped the logs in the mud and nearly launched myself out of the seat. It took 8 or 10 years but the stains finally came out of my shorts. ;)
 
   / Modified my drawbar to actually be useful #25  
The Ym.2000 won't kick it up. Even tried to make do it. You may need to stick with a little garden cart to be safe. I have it lifted going through the Duel axle Brakes and Tires. See the Jack stands. Never gets close to being unlevel sitting hooked up.
 

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   / Modified my drawbar to actually be useful #26  
Now I understand why the extended draw bar. The running gear on the farm wagon I built has an extended hitch. Prevents wagon contact with rear tires. Still learning - how to back up with steerable front wheels. Ten ton - 8'x12' deck.

People will say counter steer...turn the steering opposite direction....blah blah blah...that’s all b.s.because what you need to do changes as you follow the wagon (or trailer) through the turn.

Other than practice, practice, practice, the best advice I’ve heard whether it’s a trailer or 4 wheeled wagon, is to focus on the end of the tongue where it connects to the tractor.
Does the tongue need to be moved left or right? Its just like if you were pushing the wagon’s tongue backwards by hand, you would intuitively know how to steer the tongue left or right to steer the wagons back wheels in the direction you want it to go, as well as when to straighten back up, correct, etc..
Then steer the Tractor’s Drawbar left or right just like you are pushing the wagon’s tongue by hand.

Of course the tractor’s drawbar being at the back and going backwards adds a degree of difficulty, but you already know how to back up a vehicle to get the drawbar where you want it to go if you were able to hook up the wagon.
 
   / Modified my drawbar to actually be useful #27  
People will say counter steer...turn the steering opposite direction....blah blah blah...that’s all b.s.because what you need to do changes as you follow the wagon (or trailer) through the turn.

Other than practice, practice, practice, the best advice I’ve heard whether it’s a trailer or 4 wheeled wagon, is to focus on the end of the tongue where it connects to the tractor.
Does the tongue need to be moved left or right? Its just like if you were pushing the wagon’s tongue backwards by hand, you would intuitively know how to steer the tongue left or right to steer the wagons back wheels in the direction you want it to go, as well as when to straighten back up, correct, etc..
Then steer the Tractor’s Drawbar left or right just like you are pushing the wagon’s tongue by hand.

Of course the tractor’s drawbar being at the back and going backwards adds a degree of difficulty, but you already know how to back up a vehicle to get the drawbar where you want it to go if you were able to hook up the wagon.
My Ranger bass boat outboard would get to my son in a wake zone. F'd him up good the first few times trying to look at the motor backing up. Knew what was happening. He was real young but honestly couldn't help not to laugh the first few times. But sure enough I had to get on him about what "not to do".......
 
   / Modified my drawbar to actually be useful
  • Thread Starter
#29  
That's a perfect example of what I wanted to avoid
 
   / Modified my drawbar to actually be useful #30  
Another solution if you're just moving trailers around: a front trailer ball.
And mount it low enough to get under the tongue of a parked trailer. A ball on top of the loader bucket would likely be to high to do this.
kimg2005rhitchonym186dbucket-jpg.511565
 
   / Modified my drawbar to actually be useful
  • Thread Starter
#31  
Another solution if you're just moving trailers around: a front trailer ball.
And mount it low enough to get under the tongue of a parked trailer. A ball on top of the loader bucket would likely be to high to do this.
kimg2005rhitchonym186dbucket-jpg.511565
Yup... I have a trailer ball welded on the quick tach top bar on my bobcat M610... super handy to just drop the bucket and go
20210519_151745.jpg
20210519_151620.jpg
 
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   / Modified my drawbar to actually be useful #32  
See attachment, hitch receiver on drawbar. Alos, Hoye's four infh wheel extenders are visible.
That was the way I seen it also. But no extra 3pt. and I wasn't removing one for the very few times I use it. Plus I don't have to hook up the top link. Factory hole in the arm. Easy as long as your put the bolt in before you lift it. :confused: leave it there.
 

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   / Modified my drawbar to actually be useful #34  
Nicely done. 👌
 
   / Modified my drawbar to actually be useful #35  
Thanks!!She's another a beauty if your talking about mine. I may break down and buy a can of paint. Grn. even. Starting to look it's age for the times I do use it. I'll have a whole 15$ in it. Paint it grn. and I
'll can get big bucks for them looking new. West coast money even different grn. they say though.... Tell Wayne we all said Hi!! Feeling kind of gay today!!........
 
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   / Modified my drawbar to actually be useful
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Thanks Thomas
 
   / Modified my drawbar to actually be useful #37  
Needed to hook up to a utility trailer for serious tractor work.... hay ride for the kids.... not a fan of 3 pt drawbars and the stock one is about useless in stock form.... soooo I started cutting and welding... VERY pleased w my results....

Obviously the added length would reduce vertical capacity but I won't have more than a couple hundred lbs of tongue weight...View attachment 699033
View attachment 699034
I just bought a three point hitch for $139 that I can raise and lower. No need for the drawbar.
 
   / Modified my drawbar to actually be useful #38  
I just bought a three point hitch for $139 that I can raise and lower. No need for the drawbar.

Pros/Cons to that too.

Pros
- You can easily backup and hookup
- You can raise and lower the trailer without jacking it up.
- Some of these also have the ball on top for 5th wheel moving. Slick deal.

Cons
- limited to the tongue loaded weight of the trailer to the rating of the 3PT hydraulic lift. Going over could blow out the hydraulic seals on the tractor. So don't lift beyond the safety rating.
 
   / Modified my drawbar to actually be useful
  • Thread Starter
#39  
Also can be quite dangerous
 
   / Modified my drawbar to actually be useful #40  
Also can be quite dangerous

Actually anything with a tractor can be dangerous. That's why all of the newer manuals have a huge safety section at the front.
 

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