moldboard plow questions

nspec · Oct 12, 2011

Uh oh.....here comes the age old wd-40 debate.....

Bear Foot Farm · Oct 13, 2011

WilliamBos said:
It is not BS. WD40 contains 40% water. It is not a rust inhibitor,, it will only rust more. That is a fact, NOT fiction!!

BTDT.

No. it's not "fact" at all
This is "fact":

WD-40 Frequently Asked Questions

What does WD-40 contain?
While the ingredients in WD-40 are secret, we can tell you what WD-40 does NOT contain. WD-40 does not contain silicone, kerosene, water, wax, graphite, chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), or any known cancer-causing agents.

sweettractors · Oct 13, 2011

Here is part of our current used plow inventory with lots of pics. Used 2-14 John Deere Turning Plow with Coulters, WE SHIP FAST, SAFE CHEAP items in Sweetfarmequipment store on eBay!.

WilliamBos · Oct 14, 2011

Bear Foot Farm said:
No. it's not "fact" at all
This is "fact":

WD-40 Frequently Asked Questions

I tell you what, spray all your precious items in WD40, and then when old man winter arrives, and the thermometer drops to -50, and your WD40 does not save you from all the rusting that the cold damp climate causes, or the rusting that all the road salt causes, maybe you can get WD40 to pay for it. Because that is FACT - WD40 is NOT a rust inhibitor!! I have seen it first hand, rusts up real fast.

It may work OK for a penetrating oil, but it must be chased out with a REAL lubricant.

What may work in the warm climates of NC, does not work elsewhere.

Did I miss anything??

cowski · Oct 15, 2011

i would not over look the ih or white plows.i never liked coulters . i would lean toward a shear bolt plow for a garden.they are simple. the trip plows wear the trip mechanism out in rocky soils they are expensive to fix.for large acreage a auto reset plow is the only way to go.i have plowed 1300 acres a year with a case 5 bottom and white 6 bottom plow with out coulters.

cammax · Dec 17, 2015

Check that the top link on the hydraulics responds when a bar is used to lever back and forward with control lever in draft on the quadrent should allow the lower linkage arms to raize and lower in response to pressure on top link. If no response fix the hydraulics as this is critical for proper weight transfer from plow to rear wheels on tractor. We have just finished setting up a Ferguson tea 28 hp pulling a 4 furrow 11" plow at 7" deep it has very good draft control . When i know how to post a video on this site i will do it about 16 minutes long. cammax

Erik Graham · Dec 17, 2015

About 4 years ago I bought a used IH 14-2 plow for use on my Kubota L2550 (29 h.p.) with the intention of creating a couple of garden plots. The plow appeared to be in solid but rusty condition. The first year I tried using it I had a tough time getting the "sods" to actually roll over and lay in the previously plowed furrow. I tried this really late in the season and didn't have much time to fool around with anything. This year though, I did have more time and I spent a lot of time looking into various websites, YouTube videos and reading books. The conclusion I came to is that almost any plow (that isn't hopelessly knackered) will do what it's supposed to do when it's aligned properly both to the tractor and the ground that is to be worked. My plow has coulters on it but they were hopelessly out of alignment with various components of the plow. Once I got all of that sorted, my plow did exactly what it was designed to do and did it well. The coulters were an integral part of the equation in that the field I was plowing hadn't been worked for 30 years or so but with the coulters sharpened, greased and aligned the sod rolled over perfectly. I was glad I spent the time to understand my plow and "got to know it" a bit. I know that sounds a bit corny but I am a believer in old iron, it served our forefathers well and it will serve us well with the investment of time and elbow grease.
Cheers, Erik

P.S. Will post a photo shortly

sweettractors · Dec 17, 2015

Erik Graham said:
About 4 years ago I bought a used IH 14-2 plow for use on my Kubota L2550 (29 h.p.) with the intention of creating a couple of garden plots. The plow appeared to be in solid but rusty condition. The first year I tried using it I had a tough time getting the "sods" to actually roll over and lay in the previously plowed furrow. I tried this really late in the season and didn't have much time to fool around with anything. This year though, I did have more time and I spent a lot of time looking into various websites, YouTube videos and reading books. The conclusion I came to is that almost any plow (that isn't hopelessly knackered) will do what it's supposed to do when it's aligned properly both to the tractor and the ground that is to be worked. My plow has coulters on it but they were hopelessly out of alignment with various components of the plow. Once I got all of that sorted, my plow did exactly what it was designed to do and did it well. The coulters were an integral part of the equation in that the field I was plowing hadn't been worked for 30 years or so but with the coulters sharpened, greased and aligned the sod rolled over perfectly. I was glad I spent the time to understand my plow and "got to know it" a bit. I know that sounds a bit corny but I am a believer in old iron, it served our forefathers well and it will serve us well with the investment of time and elbow grease.
Cheers, Erik

P.S. Will post a photo shortly

Learning to use a plow is pretty basic geometry and taking the time to "get to know" your implement and its integral part of the plow/tractor equation always pays off with less frustration for the user and a pleasing outcome in the field. Ken Sweet