mounting & dismounting your own tractor tires

[dfkrug]

Any one out there mount and dismount your own tires? I know some have
purchased the Harbor Fright tire changer. I bought mine years ago, and
as with some other HF tools, it works, but you need to modify it a bit....

First, you have to mount it onto something that won't move around with
the large forces you use. I tried bolting it to some 4x12s and parking a
tractor on it, but that was only fair. Here I show how I mounted it to my
multi-purpose support that slips over the tines of my pallet forks. This is
the same implement that I use with a receiver to move trailers around.

So, I whacked off the bottom of the HF tire changer and welded some
sched 40 pipe on the bottom. This just fits inside some larger pipe, which
is then welded onto the support. Some 5/8" rod stock makes a nice pin.
(My HF foor-mount bender also fits into this pipe.) See first photo.

In the second photo, you can see the original bit that clamps the wheel
down. Pthttt! (Bronx cheer). It broke after 4 or 5 tires. I replaced it
with a 5/16" piece of steel to give continuous contact with the wheel,
and its own hole for the anti-spin pin. The anti-spin pin normally goes
through a stud hole in the wheel, but that means you have to unscrew the
whole wheel clamp just to spin the wheel a few degrees. Works much
better.

In the 3rd photo, I am breaking the bead on one of my JD 4300 front wheels.
Clearly, the tool had to be several feet up in the air to get the full leverage
I needed to use the bead-breaking feature. With heavy wheel/tire assemblies
I lower the FEL all the way down, and curl it forward. This helps me lift
these heavy guys onto the mounter. Note that I do only tractor tires as
car/truck tires have very tight beads and are hard to break free. Also, I
do not recommend using this tool on aluminum wheels. This particular tire
was my first R4, and it was pretty tough to do. R1s have been much
easier.

The 4th photo shows the removal commencing. Tire irons do help.

 

[dfkrug]

Off comes the tire (photo 1), and its off (photo 2)!

Getting that new Titan on there was tough. For the final bead, I had to
resort to tire irons only (photo 3). But I am not done yet. Getting air
in there fast enough to seat the beads is required. I connected a hose
to the valve stem while I pulled up on the tire. Using the back of the fork
frame for leverage and using a tire iron sure helped here.

 

[ninefinger]

I applaud you sir, as for me I fear I have passed the age of engaging in an effort of such magnitude. Well thought out and executed.

 

[radioman]

Interesting setup. I betcha its harder to break bead from bottom with gravity against your side. Otherwise I like the idea of portabilty. Currently I just unbolt mine off the floor and put away when not in use.

 

[dfkrug]

I betcha its harder to break bead from bottom with gravity against your side.

Yes, I failed to mention that you can use the bead breaker downward with
the tire/wheel on the floor/ground. Some wheels/tires I have, I could not
break the bead at all.

 

[BearKiller]

I was born in and raised in a big tire shop that does everything from hand-dollys to TimberJacks.

That being said, I have been meaning to get one of the HF changers to use at home; it doesn't cost me a dime to do them at the shop, but if I make the mistake of pulling in the lot, fifteen people with flat tires will swarm me and keep me there all night.

Tire repair/changing is such a simple task that it is beyond me why anyone would bring one into town.

I have changed countless tires on both DRW trucks and goose-neck trailers, in stock-yard parking-lots and wide spots in the road, miles away from home, with only a hydraulic bottle-jack and two pry-bars.

No air in the tire, lay the tire/rim under the truck or trailer frame, bumper, whatever is heavy and something that a little jacking pressure can't hurt.

Position the tire such that you can put the base of the jack on the side-wall and against the bead of the rim.

Apply jack-pressure between your stationary object and the tire, until the bead "breaks" loose; you may have to do this in more than one spot around the tire.

When one side gives, flip the tire and do the opposite side.


Lacking a bottle jack, any bumper-jack, HandyMan, whatever, can be used; they just lack the control of the hydraulic.


Once the beads are loose, it is a simple matter to change the tire; too easy to need explanation.




Rear tractor tires are best changed ON THE TRACTOR, where gravity and the ability to turn the wheel works in your favor.

Lacking a proper bead-breaking wedge, a plain old VERY DULL wood-splitting wedge will suffice to break loose the back side; just start driving the wedge between the tire and rim, stopping when it contacts the angle of the rim, and just work your way around, until the bead finally gives loose.

The wedge can also be employed on the front side, but a proper tire hammer is much quicker and easier, so long as you don't miss the mark and damage the rim.

Once the beads are loose, the work is all over, as flipping the tire off the rim is no more problem that fixing one on the kid's bike.

UNLESS there is fluid in the tire, in which case a thirty minute job turns into an all days doings and dinner on the ground.

I refuse to add fluid to any tire of mine; if a tractor needs fluid, it ain't enough tractor to do what you expect of it anyway.

The theory/idea of fluid-"ballast" sounds all good in the hearing, but is one major headache in the actual reality of the situation.

No fluid in the tires and pick up a little nail = minor inconvenience.

Fluid in the tires and that little nail can easily cost two days hard work, an eighty-dollar tube, a poisoned dog or cow, and much loss of sleep.

What little benefit there may be from it is not worth the hassle to me.


I intend to revisit this thread for ideas when I get a chance to visit HF again and get a changer.

They also have a much bigger stand-alone bead-breaker that looks like it would do the job.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92961

 

[BearKiller]

I forgot to add that, when at home, I substitute the Porta-Power with one of the large area heads in place of using the bottle-jack for breaking beads.



dfkrug,

You did use plenty of bead-lube, right ??

Lacking proper tire lube, Crisco or vegetable-oil can be used.

Avoid any petroleum lubricants as they will deteriorate the rubber.

 

[David Devuono]

Princess Auto in Canada sells the same tire tool. I drilled holes in my garage floor and put some concrete anchors down. When I need to do tire work I just bolt it down like Radioman, after blowing out the dirt from the anchors. The first time I used it I bent the two thin pieces on the bead breaker and so welded a piece of tubing between them. I know you can get Tire soap but I just mix up some dish-soap and water to help the tools slide on the rubber.

Dave

 

[BearKiller]

For seating tubeless beads that have proven difficult and un-cooperative, these is such an animal as a Tire Tiger or Cheetah, which is a Bead Blaster.

You can buy one for about $350 and the manufacturer make $325 profit; or, you can weld a 1-1/2 NPT bung into any old air-tank and thread in a ball-valve, then about an 18-inch pipe into the valve.

You will need to fabricate a "fan-tail" nozzle/outlet of sorts, like an inch thick by five-inches long, with a female NPT to thread it onto the 18-inch pipe.

If you were careful with your welds and trust your work, with the ball-valve closed, put about 100-PSI in the tank, poke the wide nozzle between the tire bead and rim, shut your eyes and make sure the back-fire of the air-tank can't hit you.

When you are ready and the wife and kids are on the other end of the farm, immediately flip open the valve..........WWWWWWHHHHHHHHHHOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMM!!!!!!!!!

What do you know, the beads are snugly seated and there is already probably 10-PSI in the tire.


Nothing about this is safe, not even with a store-bought blaster; and always remember, they react like a bazooka and if you are in the way, no one will need ever remind you again.



Before resorting to all this, remove the valve-core and see if that makes a difference.

 

[charlz]

When you are ready and the wife and kids are on the other end of the farm, immediately flip open the valve..........WWWWWWHHHHHHHHHHOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMM!!!!!!!!!

What do you know, the beads are snugly seated and there is already probably 10-PSI in the tire.


Nothing about this is safe, not even with a store-bought blaster; and always remember, they react like a bazooka and if you are in the way, no one will need ever remind you again.

Is it safer than 'Ether Inflation'?

YouTube - Ether inflation

YouTube - REDNECK TIRE MOUNTING

I noticed the second guy used just a wee bit more than the first guy

 

[Sunkistdds]

I love my HF tire changer and I have a commercial one as well that works about the same... just heavier. You have to reinforce the pedistal seating ring as it is too week and allows the anti rotation finger to bend in its mount. I also made a complete set as I needed them of adapators to fit over every size farm rim, that does not allow them to venture from center position when torqued with the tools. The tool is a start and does fine, jsut needs a little strengthening. Price is great and was paid for for me in a couple of weeks. Just running into town and waisting time makes it worth while.

Also for changing rears on the tractor everyone needs a bead-buster or similar. For something like 150-180 it makes taking off a 18-4-38 pretty easy, it it can ever be easy. Flat stays on the tractor.

 

[tommu56]

I forgot to add that, when at home, I substitute the Porta-Power with one of the large area heads in place of using the bottle-jack for breaking beads.



dfkrug,

You did use plenty of bead-lube, right ??

Lacking proper tire lube, Crisco or vegetable-oil can be used.

Avoid any petroleum lubricants as they will deteriorate the rubber.

I have to admit I cheat I use the loader or hoe bucket tooth with a short piece of 2x4 to brake the bead the hoe bucket works the best. one of these times I'll try the out rigger the shoe loos like a good fit.

tom

 

[dfkrug]

That being said, I have been meaning to get one of the HF changers to use at home; it doesn't cost me a dime to do them at the shop, but if I make the mistake of pulling in the lot, fifteen people with flat tires will swarm me and keep me there all night.

That's funny....doesn't anyone else work there?

As for changing rear tractor tires on the tractor....that's an interesting
approach and makes sense. I found the rear tractor tires were much
easier to change (but not lift!) as the larger diameter beads had more
stretch and flexibility. I could even break their beads with a FEL bkt (photo).
All my new ag tires (rear AND front) could be mounted using the mounting
rod (the red bar in the photos). This R4 tire was a 6-ply and I could not
get the leverage, so I resorted to the tire irons. I do use soap...a spray
bottle of detergent.

I have used FELs or car jacks to break beads on tractor tires, but it did
not work for any of the car/truck tires I tried. I needed more than the
3000-4000 lb of force for those beads. I need a heavier object to set the
jack under....if you have such, that is great.

Anyway, the HF changer was only $35, but not obvious how to use....unless
you have used changers before. I love those HF tire irons, too...only $6 ea.

For cars and trucks, I hate to wait around for pro-install, but I don't do
spin balancing or want to risk scratching Al wheels. I also don't like
over-torqued lug nuts. So what I do is buy my tires from TireRack and take
them to a local approved installer and pay $21 each to have them mounted
and balanced. In the AM, I drop off the old tires on the rims (off the
vehicle) and the new tires, then I pick them up later in the day and put
them on the vehicle at home.

Anyway, good post, BEAR. Do you have any pix of a proper tire hammer?

 

[dfkrug]

You have to reinforce the pedistal seating ring as it is too week and allows the anti rotation finger to bend in its mount. I also made a complete set as I needed them of adapators to fit over every size farm rim, that does not allow them to venture from center position when torqued with the tools. The tool is a start and does fine, jsut needs a little strengthening. Price is great and was paid for for me in a couple of weeks. Just running into town and waisting time makes it worth while.

Good idea making different adapters. I found that you can bend the
anti-rotation rod's mount because the wheel-securing bracket is so
lousy. With the plate I made, the finger mount is safe.

 

[kevinj]

Anyway, good post, BEAR. Do you have any pix of a proper tire hammer?

I'm not bear but here is a link to a good tire tool company. Around here most good parts stores have them.

Ken Tool - A Leader in Automotive Aftermarket Tire Repair Tools

 

[BearKiller]

I'm not bear but here is a link to a good tire tool company. Around here most good parts stores have them.

Ken Tool - A Leader in Automotive Aftermarket Tire Repair Tools

Thanks for finding that.

KEN-TOOL is real good stuff.

Another is MYER's Tire Supply; they also have a complete line of tire repair accessories, such as various patches, boots, liners, valve-stems, etc.

Click here and scroll down a little, lower-left of page is a picture of a tire-hammer; the one pictured is fiber-glass handled; avoid the fiber-glass and get the Hickory-handled one.

http://www.kentool.com/kentool_catalog2007.pdf


While you are at it, get some extra handles.

The business end will put several would-be John Henrys in the grave, but you will break the occassional handle.

 

[BearKiller]

For cars and trucks, I hate to wait around for pro-install,That's funny; I been around this all my life and have yet to see anyone I would consider PRO; it pays too little for anyone to care enough to do it right. but I don't do
spin balancing or want to risk scratching Al wheels. I also don't like
over-torqued lug nuts. So what I do is buy my tires from TireRack and take
them to a local approved installer and pay $21 each to have them mounted
and balanced. In the AM, I drop off the old tires on the rims (off the
vehicle) and the new tires, then I pick them up later in the day and put
them on the vehicle at home.

That right there is some real good advice for anyone needing tire work done, whether a simple repair, or a whole new set.

Personally, I wish every air-impact-wrench in the country was thrown to the bottom of Loch Ness; many is the brake-rotor or set of wheel-studs that have been ruined by over-zealous use of them.

Not one of twenty tire-monkeys know or care how to properly install a wheel.

My personal truck is a 1985 with over half-a-million miles and there has never been an air-gun used on it since the day I got it; it still has the original nuts/studs as a result of that also.

Like he says, leave the truck/car at home and take in only the wheels; things will last a lot longer for your troubles.


As for spin-balancing:

It costs me not a cent to balance my wheels every day if I so choose, and I have NOT balanced a wheel on any of my personal vehicles in years.

If a tire is good enough to run, it don't need balancing; and, if it actually needs balancing, balancing won't cure it for long.

Besides, balancing is trying to hit a moving target.

When tires are mounted, it is necessary to lube the wheel and tire beads to prevent the tools tearing the rubber.

You can balance to a fare-the-well, and as soon as you have to brake hard, or give it the fuel pretty good, the rim will actually slip inside the tire and the weights then be in the wrong places; unless, of course, your wheels have a good coat of rust in the bead area, in which case they will have more "grip".

Try it some time with a shiny new set of tires, especially big meaty 4x4 or SUV tires, as soon as the tires are mounted, make a permanent mark at each valve-stem and watch it move around from place to place as you drive.

 

[dfkrug]

Ken Tool - A Leader in Automotive Aftermarket Tire Repair Tools

OK, I see what kind of hammer you are talking about. Nothing like the
right tool to make a job just a bit easier, no?

 

[kevinj]

OK, I see what kind of hammer you are talking about. Nothing like the
right tool to make a job just a bit easier, no?

I have the short mini sledge duck bill and the hand held chisel bead iron plus several spoons and assorted irons. These allow me to do most tires at home when I need to.

I am fortunate to have a good tire shop nearby with mobil service if needed.

 

[Skyco]

I lag bolt my HF tire changer down to the deck with a cordless impact driver. When done I take it back up.

I wonder if the securing ring broke for the OP because he is applying a tremendous amount of pressure upwards trying to break beads with the tire mounted on the changer. Use it as designed and it works well, for me anyway.

Tires slipping on the wheel after installing? Not if you use the correct lube, and BTW soap isn't it. I use a tire mounting fluid, which is a type of vegetable oil emulsion. I've never, ever had a tire rotate on the rim after mounting, most tires come with a little paint circle indicating the light spot which you line up with the valve stem. Pretty obvious if the tire slipped as it no longer lines up. Get the fluid, it is inexpensive, I've been on the same gallon for probably 10 years.