Moving to the Farm

   / Moving to the Farm #141  
"professionally installed" = it is signed off by your building inspector who is qualified to inspect it and you will need a permit (it can go on a HVAC permit usually, unless your office has a special permit for it). If I have to pull a permit and it has to be inspected and I have to pay for it, the inspectors word is final in the law. DIYers typically do a better job than a pro, unless it is a very complicated install, which I do not believe would be the case for a mobile home.

A few recommendations:

For Class A, flashing etc, Menards. Lower priced by a huge margin compared to any stove store (sometimes 1/4 of the retail price)
For stovepipe, Stove Pipe - VentingPipe.com

No store sells good quality stovepipe. Usually it is just 2 foot lengths of split mild steel. Heat Fab is seamless stainless steel. They have long (up to 72") telescoping sections that make the install really easy, and less joints make for a good looking install. And to top it off, Ventingpipe is a very competitively priced store. Just the class A is too expesive and it is both bulky and heavy, so much cheaper at Menards...

I have installed 4 different wood burning stoves, so I know the requirements. Its not difficult to understand.
 
   / Moving to the Farm #142  
I had realized you were talking about an indoor fireplace. I was just throwing that out there thinking outside the box. ( one Is on my wish list)
No dirt or dust inside from the wood and you get free hot water to boot while the stove is running. Hooks up conveniently to your hvac system, which also would make it easy to hook to your new home
 
   / Moving to the Farm #143  
I understand you are looking for an indoor unit, but take a look at the outdoor units. Dad has a Hardie outdoor wood burner. Also have some buddies with them also they all love them no mess in house hot water even if power is out. Huge plus. But needs a generator to run the blower on furnace in a power outage. Been wanting one but just haven't got one yet. Our insurance doesn't care about them as long as they are over 20 feet from the house.
Know a guy on the fire department he said he has been to some fires on the outdoor wood burners but none have ever been a Hardie. They were all cheaper brands.
Just making a suggestion here.
 
   / Moving to the Farm
  • Thread Starter
#144  
"professionally installed" = it is signed off by your building inspector who is qualified to inspect it and you will need a permit (it can go on a HVAC permit usually, unless your office has a special permit for it). If I have to pull a permit and it has to be inspected and I have to pay for it, the inspectors word is final in the law. DIYers typically do a better job than a pro, unless it is a very complicated install, which I do not believe would be the case for a mobile home. A few recommendations: For Class A, flashing etc, Menards. Lower priced by a huge margin compared to any stove store (sometimes 1/4 of the retail price) For stovepipe, Stove Pipe - VentingPipe.com No store sells good quality stovepipe. Usually it is just 2 foot lengths of split mild steel. Heat Fab is seamless stainless steel. They have long (up to 72") telescoping sections that make the install really easy, and less joints make for a good looking install. And to top it off, Ventingpipe is a very competitively priced store. Just the class A is too expesive and it is both bulky and heavy, so much cheaper at Menards... I have installed 4 different wood burning stoves, so I know the requirements. Its not difficult to understand.

Thanks for all the good resources, I will check them out.
 
   / Moving to the Farm
  • Thread Starter
#145  
With so many people suggesting outdoor units I will definitely look into them. I was under the impression they are more expensive and have a relatively, ten to fifteen, year life span. The other thing that had eliminated them from my thinking was that the current house is located about 200 feet from where we would build in the future. Wouldn't that bee too far to be effective?
 
   / Moving to the Farm
  • Thread Starter
#146  
We got the wires pulled through the conduit today, yesterday at this point. It actually went quite well. More details and pics on the blog.
 

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   / Moving to the Farm #147  
As far as wood boiler, there is tons of possibility. Esucate tourself on them before taking that 5k plus $ decision. Sone of them are 20-30% efficient and some are close to 90%. Don't rely on salesman before doing a move.

I would recommand some reading at the forum on hearth.com in the boiler room section. Tons of info on wood boiler. They have a hearth section as well if you need info on wood stove or insert.

I decides to eventually go with a wood boiler myself. But it will be inside my shop ( not build yet) and it will heat my shop, the house ( not finished yet) and all my DHW need.....

Good luck and keep us postef
 
   / Moving to the Farm
  • Thread Starter
#148  
Getting the pex and conduit hangers put up in the barn.
 

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   / Moving to the Farm
  • Thread Starter
#149  
A little bit at a time, and it's really all I have time for. Split a little wood while waiting for the septic contractor. He thinks he will start next week. At 16+ feet, it is going to be a deep hole with lots a fill to move.

I am also thinking about having him dig me a small pond while he is there. Something on the order of 40x80.
 

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   / Moving to the Farm #150  
Toro the Hardies that I referenced say up to 100 feet from house but they wouldn't be Hard to move to new house later on. Was thinking the lifespan was over 20 years on these units. Not much to wear out just remember to flip the grates once a year.
 

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