cougar21300
Member
It certainly isn't the fault of the tractor, it is simply misapplication. In my opinion no tractor should be equipped with a loader without first ballasting the tires unless there is a good reason not to (ex, a machine that will be used mostly for turf work with the FEL off). Nearly all of your stability comes from your solid rear axle. Loading tires isn't costly and the new organic liquids developed specifically for ballasting (Rimguard, Citrastar, beetjuice, etc) don't eat the rims up like calcium chloride did. If you have R4s on your MX, a 3/4 load will add about 450 lbs to each tire and that will make an enormous difference in your stability, both for the loader and for side hills. Additionally if you are going to be doing a lot of really heavy loader work, make up an adequate 3 point counterweight. I usually max that at about half of what the loader will lift at BC to full height, in your case 8-900 pounds. Counterweighting has the addition benefit of transferring some of the front axle weight back to the rear axle and will provide a lot more traction as well as stability.
Over the last few years I have built roughly 1 1/2 mile of road on my very steep and in some areas very soft New Hampshire property using my L5240 equipped with a Woods HD bucket. That bucket will hold a little over 1/2 yard heaped. My preferred base material is 3-6" granite ledgepack which weighs in at about 3000# per yard if its relatively dry. It's heavy and tends to bind together which makes it difficult to dig into, but my well ballasted tractor does this easily, and so would yours if it were set up similarly.
Learn from Kubomans good advice too, the pickup point leveraging is critical. Even with the extremely light counterweighting of your tiller you might have been able to handle that furnace by wrapping your chain off the inside of the bucket rather than the outside.
Finally, and hopefully your dealer emphasized this during your training, if you find yourself in danger of tipping, ground your bucket!
Don't be discouraged, the tractor you have chosen for yourself is a performance monster and will do all you likely ask of it ...once you get familiar with it :thumbsup:
Over the last few years I have built roughly 1 1/2 mile of road on my very steep and in some areas very soft New Hampshire property using my L5240 equipped with a Woods HD bucket. That bucket will hold a little over 1/2 yard heaped. My preferred base material is 3-6" granite ledgepack which weighs in at about 3000# per yard if its relatively dry. It's heavy and tends to bind together which makes it difficult to dig into, but my well ballasted tractor does this easily, and so would yours if it were set up similarly.
Learn from Kubomans good advice too, the pickup point leveraging is critical. Even with the extremely light counterweighting of your tiller you might have been able to handle that furnace by wrapping your chain off the inside of the bucket rather than the outside.
Finally, and hopefully your dealer emphasized this during your training, if you find yourself in danger of tipping, ground your bucket!
Don't be discouraged, the tractor you have chosen for yourself is a performance monster and will do all you likely ask of it ...once you get familiar with it :thumbsup:
