Mx5100 remotes. Questions.

[countrybumpkin]

He is planning on using a aftermarket valve , he was just thinking of making a block to connect it to the factory location

 

[motownbrowne]

I'm subscribing. One day, I'll tackle this project on my MX.

 

[LD1]

X2, was wondering same. LD1, you'll get much better valves going this route. I'm not overly impressed with OEM but my options with cab were limited.

For the connectors, not sure what kind of bracket OEM uses but it holds the connectors and as you pull it disconnects so one hand on and off and I'm sure it doubles as a safety release if your hose gets caught.

Quality of valves is a non issue. Wasn't gonna use oem anyway. I am buying an aftermarket triple valve, and will likely fab handles to use oem slots.

Just looking for pressure and return to feed the valves. The cover i removed is right there near where I need. Thought it would be easier than running hoses off loader PB

 

[Leejohn]

LD I'm posting a remote instruction manual. I know it's not for your, but look at how the return goes back to the rockshaft control. Look at pipe #10 and o ring #5, now where it goes in was just a rubber plug that I had to remove. It was painted the same color as the tractor. So look for something like that and it's the return.

 

[LD1]

Thanks for that link. That valve diagram is just what I needed....i think.

Hopefully someone can confirm my suspicion....


It appears the cover i removed....one port is pressure, the other supply's the 3ph. Thus with the cover plate on, it supply's the 3ph.

If I were to tap into the hydraulics here, I would need to run the pressure to the remote valves. And a PB back to the other port so the 3ph will work.

An return to tank via the port that has the painted-over rubber plug in in (which I saw).

Still confused about the third port under that cover which seemingly goes no where? Perhaps it would have been used for a draft control option?

In either case, Ill leave it alone. I'd i plumb as described, I thin it should work . It will be supplying the remotes with a pressure source and a return to tank.

And with valves in neutral, oil will flow into the valves, and back out via PB as if they weren't there. Only thing I can see is when using a remote, the 3ph will not work at the same time? Don't foresee needing both at the same time, but is that normal? Or perhaps that's what that third port is for?

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

This may be zero help but I snapped a few pictures on my way out the door this morning. The cloth sheathed lines are my PB loop and unrelated to the OEM single rear remote.

View from the rear and a little above :


View from rear and a little below:


View from rear and side with a PB hose blocking the view of the lower rear remote line:

 

[LD1]

Appreciate the pics. Just doesnt show what I need.

Refer to this pic part 010 in the drawing


The plate I took off pictured earlier, is where the front half of this part bolts. Sealed by the two 030 and one 020 o-rings. Those three ports are circled in blue. The one with the red X through it, is the port that on the cap I removed, goes nowhere. And the other two sealed by the right 030 ring and 020 ring are connected via the cap. (I assume one is pressure, the other is feeding the 3PH). So if you imagine this cap as a hose.....basically cut it in half, feed the remotes with the pressure side, and back to the 3PH via PB????

I need to know if this is correct? And if the two tubes, circled in green, are connected to the two ports that the cap connects. And if the third port sealed by the left 030 ring in the pic that I have a red x through.....is this port still just blocked off and goes nowhere?

Just got off the phone with the kubota dealer, he is gonna call tech services and forward me on a copy of the service manual pertaining to this issue. But dont know what it will show. Was hoping they would just have this part in stock, and I would go lay eyes on it first hand. Just being able to see the back side of this part where the tubes connect would be huge.

 

[LD1]

This may be zero help but I snapped a few pictures on my way out the door this morning. The cloth sheathed lines are my PB loop and unrelated to the OEM single rear remote.

View from the rear and a little above :
View attachment 473813

View from rear and a little below:
View attachment 473814

View from rear and side with a PB hose blocking the view of the lower rear remote line:
View attachment 473815

Forgot to ask, to you or anyone that has a kubota with remotes....

Do the remote functions and 3PH work at the same time? and if not....which has priority of you try.

 

[LD1]

Didnt get much out of the installation manual he sent me. Pretty much teh same as the one leejohn posted.

But he did have this

Circled in red are where the remote valves are fed. This would be TWO of the ports in question under the cover I removed. Without remotes, the cover just connects these together to allow the 3PH to work as normal. With remotes, the manifold separates them, uses pressure to supply the remote valve, and feeds the 3PH via PB. The line to the right of my red circle, is the return to tank. Its separate from the ports in question and shown as 120 on the drawing 2 posts ago. Shows nothing of the 3rd port under that cover, so I'll assume it just gets blocked back off. So unless someone tells me otherwise, I am gonna start machining tonight.

But now the decisions......I have some 1" thick aluminum, and some 1" thick steel.....Probably just use the aluminum, since thats what the cover was, and because it machines so nicely.

 

[C4Ranch]

Here's just an idea... What about buying the backhoe hookups? May get you all the necessary plumbing?

 

[Leejohn]

Forget that blocked off hole. I bet it was going to be the return and was just to hard and slow for them to bend up 3 tubes, so much faster to do it the way it's done. You got it right go for it.

 

[LD1]

Here's just an idea... What about buying the backhoe hookups? May get you all the necessary plumbing?

Not sure how a backhoe attaches. Or what parts they use and where it ties in. I will look into it though, bit have a feeling it ain't gonna be cheap either

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I don't think Ive ever tried to purposely operate the remote and 3pth at the same time. I'd need two right hands.

I do regularly flip the 3pth position control lever from one extreme to the other and then immediately move the hydraulic top link (my rear remotes most common use). Since it takes a few second for the 3pth to completely raise, I think I'd notice if there operation was mutually exclusive. :confused3:

 

[s219]

Yes, the rear remotes are OC.

Another thing to consider: Kubota OEM will not allow the first valve in the stack to be a float/detent type (the second and/or third can be). I don't know why but it may be germane to your plans.

I am pretty sure that is only on tractors that nest the levers up next to the 3-pt lever. It's a matter of space. The first valve lever goes behind the 3-pt lever and has less room for throw. The next two valves go to the side of the 3-pt lever and have a longer throw, letting you engage floats and detents.

 

[s219]

Sorry I am late to see this and respond. On my L3200, the factory valve block takes the PB line that formerly ran from the loader to the 3-pt (an external line) and diverts it to be the PB supply to valves. Return from the valves goes through the hole(s) in the case under the plate that comes off. Then a new external PB line runs from the valve PB out back to the 3-pt.

Sounds like the MX setup is more sophisticated, and does away with the external PB lines. It would make sense that one of the holes is the PB input, which normally gets routed straight to the 3-pt if no valves are installed.

If you are to install valves, then the block you machine has to have these functions:

1) passes PB to valves
2) provides return to tank from valves (return through the current unused hole in the blank plate).
3) passes PB flow through to 3-pt when valves not actuated

I think you've already arrived at those conclusions, but I wanted to confirm it's inline with my experience putting the factory kit on my L, other than the external/internal PB lines.

 

[k0ua]

I am pretty sure that is only on tractors that nest the levers up next to the 3-pt lever. It's a matter of space. The first valve lever goes behind the 3-pt lever and has less room for throw. The next two valves go to the side of the 3-pt lever and have a longer throw, letting you engage floats and detents.

Now that makes sense.

 

[C4Ranch]

I am pretty sure that is only on tractors that nest the levers up next to the 3-pt lever. It's a matter of space. The first valve lever goes behind the 3-pt lever and has less room for throw. The next two valves go to the side of the 3-pt lever and have a longer throw, letting you engage floats and detents.

I've got float on 1 and 2, could have also put it on 3. When I installed the valves, float valves have a "can" that hangs down lower and my 1st valve bearly cleared the 3pt top cover. More space below the 2nd and 3rd valves so I can see if there isn't enough room under there why it's hard to fit a float on 1st valve but the bigger the tractor the more room there is.

 

[LD1]

Well....not good news/progress tonight.

I started taking some measurements and doing some trig to figure out how to machine this thing. But I think I overlooked something.

With the small footprint of this conver plate, even getting -06 fittings to work would be challenging. Would require mounting with FHCS and countersinking them. As the hex on a -06 ORB fitting would interfere. And getting to a 1/2" fitting just won't work without having to make the block alot bigger, and cross drilling in the side to make the ports come out somewhere other than the face of the manifold. And it won't leave hardly any meat between the ports and bolt holes.

Makes sense now why Kubota used that tube contraption.

There is no doubt I could probably make something work, but at this point I thin it is gonna just be easier to pull PB elsewhere.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I am pretty sure that is only on tractors that nest the levers up next to the 3-pt lever. It's a matter of space. The first valve lever goes behind the 3-pt lever and has less room for throw. The next two valves go to the side of the 3-pt lever and have a longer throw, letting you engage floats and detents.

I like that answer

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I've got float on 1 and 2, could have also put it on 3. When I installed the valves, float valves have a "can" that hangs down lower and my 1st valve bearly cleared the 3pt top cover. More space below the 2nd and 3rd valves so I can see if there isn't enough room under there why it's hard to fit a float on 1st valve but the bigger the tractor the more room there is.

I like this answer too!
I was trying to come up with a hydraulic system design reason and came up empty.