My Industrial Cabin Build

   / My Industrial Cabin Build #3,431  
Ratings should be printed right on the insulation of the conductor. Lots of conductors have multiple ratings. Finley place is probably 1/2 mile from me, I’m near the west end of Catterton Road on Buck Mountain.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #3,432  
I understand the need in certain areas. I'm just glad I'm not in those areas. I can live down by the river in a van if I want. No Certificates or permits needed.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build
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#3,433  
Lost power Friday night. Woke up Saturday morning to some mild flooding in the basement. Nuisance stuff took a few hours to clean up and had to move some things. Paved driveway at bottom of the hill was lifted by the water and some of it was washed away. The power of flash floods never ceases to amaze me. Pushing forward on the new punch list. Always forward.

 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build
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#3,434  
I have to wire some outlets and a light for my mechanical room. I had repurposed a Romex line to give myself a temp plug on this side of the house. I’m thinking that the inspector probably wont let me keep it like this and I need to just pull a BX line. These are sips walls so they will be surface mount. Is there any chance that being a mechanical room will make any difference?
The dangling 12/2 near the panel is just lines that haven’t been put into the panel yet.
IMG_7458.jpg
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #3,435  
Yeah, I highly doubt that exposed romex like that will fly. You could put it in conduit for the short run. It is Ok to do that for protection purposes even though you are otherwise not allowed to put NM cable in a conduit. Just shoot a piece of conduit straight up and put the rest of the wire in the joists above (not on the drywall). That should pass.

Your dryer box is grounded improperly in your video (I watched it today while waiting for coats of finish to dry on my latest door parts). The box itself needs to be directly grounded with a ground screw since it is conductive. All modern boxes have at least one pre-threaded ground screw hole in them so that is easy. A lot of times I just cut the cable extra long and wrap the ground wire around the screw and then run it to the outlet. A very picky inspector might complain that it doesn't quite go around the screw far enough (maybe...a judgement call), but I find it does the job. Then I cut the insulated conductors shorter as needed as you only need the ground wire to be longer. You can also just pigtail a ground wire from the box to the incoming ground and another pigtail to the fixture.

Do keep in mind that you will need to ground all metal boxes like this, so don't get too far ahead of yourself on that and forget. The metal BX sheath does not count as the ground either, but it must also be grounded - which it will automatically be via the box ground
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build
  • Thread Starter
#3,436  
Yeah, I highly doubt that exposed romex like that will fly. You could put it in conduit for the short run. It is Ok to do that for protection purposes even though you are otherwise not allowed to put NM cable in a conduit. Just shoot a piece of conduit straight up and put the rest of the wire in the joists above (not on the drywall). That should pass.

Your dryer box is grounded improperly in your video (I watched it today while waiting for coats of finish to dry on my latest door parts). The box itself needs to be directly grounded with a ground screw since it is conductive. All modern boxes have at least one pre-threaded ground screw hole in them so that is easy. A lot of times I just cut the cable extra long and wrap the ground wire around the screw and then run it to the outlet. A very picky inspector might complain that it doesn't quite go around the screw far enough (maybe...a judgement call), but I find it does the job. Then I cut the insulated conductors shorter as needed as you only need the ground wire to be longer. You can also just pigtail a ground wire from the box to the incoming ground and another pigtail to the fixture.

Do keep in mind that you will need to ground all metal boxes like this, so don't get too far ahead of yourself on that and forget. The metal BX sheath does not count as the ground either, but it must also be grounded - which it will automatically be via the box ground

Inlike the idea of the conduit coming down. Lets me clean it up and reroute it, then I can just pull bx off it for the others.
I mentioned the need for the ground when I was recording but I edited it out. Editing late at night when I am dozing off isn’t always a good idea.
I will make emphasis on the correct way to do it, next time I am there.
 
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#3,437  
I went to Mayers today and they cut me some 6 g wire and some 8 g wire. I am gonna have to buy a bigger spool of 10 g perhaps. The craziest thing is that there are no breakers. 20 amp gfci breakers are in short supply the plug on neutral afvi/gfci are sold out with resupply date listed as Oct-Jan. I will try to find enough pig tail style gfci yo complete the panel. I may have to get a little creative.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #3,438  
Do you have to install GFCI Breakers?

Here, everyone has a regular breaker for the panel, and then they run it to an outlet right next to the panel with a GFCI Outlet. The cost savings is huge.

Most new houses will have half a dozen or more GFCI Outlets right next to the panel. The GFCI Outlet provides the protection, it doesn't matter if it's a Breaker or an Outlet.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #3,439  
Eddie I know you've posted this tid bit before, and it still doesn't make any sense to me. Why would you have a whole stack of pointless GFCI outlets right next to the panel? the first outlet in any series circuit can be the GFCI outlet, in it's normal planned location - no reason to put an extra one right next to the panel.... right? Maybe I'm missing some aspect of elec code.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #3,440  
Probably WD needs arc fault as well as GFI protection to meet code on certain circuits. Using GFI receptacles on the first outlet is great for saving money if all you need is GFI protection, but it won’t help you for arc fault protection. Supply chain shortages are a pretty big issue in the construction industry right now
 
 
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