My Industrial Cabin Build

   / My Industrial Cabin Build #741  
Another one was insulation. I paid an insulation company less money to supply and install batt insulation than what I could buy it at a box store. I came home from work and it was done.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #742  
that is one thing I found. The hot mud dries to be very hard.



A friend made up a bucket that I used when we did patchwork in our house before painting.
He just drilled two holes in the lid, then put a PVC adapter from a female slip fit to a threaded male fitting through the hole from the top, and put a threaded 90 on the inside. You hook your vacuum to that.

On the other side, you put a piece of PVC pipe that is almost as tall as the bucket, you put a female slip fit to male threaded adapter on that and another female slip fit to threaded male fitting down from the top. You hook your hose that goes to vacuum up dust to this side. Put 4-6" of water in the bottom (enough to generously cover the bottom of the piece of PVC pipe) and start vacuuming. Then all the sheetrock dust ends up staying in the water in the bottom of the bucket and none of it reaches your vacuum.

Aaron Z

Better said than what I had said. Works great. Jon
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #744  
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #745  
The horses were neat, thanks for adding that to the video.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build
  • Thread Starter
#746  
Thanks, I really got a kick out of running into them. I drive by the stables that they use all the time when they are having events and often find myself behind some of the horse trailers but I have only seen them out on the road once before at Christmas
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #747  
You going to put a ceiling joist next to the outside wall?
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #748  
I have a question regarding remote cabin builds that I hope doesn't sound stupid. I see where logs are harvested, sawn to dimension and then immediately used in the construction. I'm guessing the logs have usually fallen a few years prior to being sawn but still wonder about wood movement after construction due to drying over time. Is it a non-issue or does one have to be careful regarding log moisture content?

Most of the log homes I have been in around here are built with wood movement (mostly shrinkage) in the design. Window and door openings are made oversized and posts have adjustment screws to allow for settling.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build
  • Thread Starter
#749  
Sorry, I got a new phone and the TBN app doesn’t work on it now so I am having to use tApitalk.
The outside wall is basically a truss system. So I use it as the first truss and go 16 inches on center from that for the first truss in the line.

I’m guessing you saw the video I posted today. This is from last weekend.

Framing adjustments and ceiling joists. DIY sIPs house build #37 - YouTube

This weekend I focused on some landscaping and the remaining joists. I hope to have those videos up in a few days.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #750  
npalen - I built a two story log cabin in Alaska with green spruce logs. I allowed 4" over the doors & windows for drying & shrinkage. Check post #663 for pictures. A couple years later after drying & settling - about 3/4" over both door & windows.
 
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