My M7060 purchase and usage thread

[sixdogs]

Yes. I take the loader on and off all the time, it's off for all non loader field and haulage. Given how easy they go on and off I'm surprised to see people leave them on needlessly.

Mine is off for much of the summer because of field work. A loader is great at times but a real pain in field work and I don't know of an easier one to remove than the Kubota. Off it comes, especially for maintenance.

 

[Rustyiron]

Don't your hyd lines give y'all a fit? I only take my loader off for the winter (all woods, no field work) and at the end of snowplowing, putting the loader back on I need to "break" all 4 loader side lines @ the hyd coupler to hook it back up. Every year.

 

[NCEarp]

I run mine without the FEL a lot, too.
So far I have not found the tractor to be light on the front.
But I need to have me a bracket made to accommodate the weights I have left from my L3240.
Rustyiron when you remove the FEL be sure to shutoff the tractor and relieve the pressure in the lines.

 

[lpigott]

Don't your hyd lines give y'all a fit? I only take my loader off for the winter (all woods, no field work) and at the end of snowplowing, putting the loader back on I need to "break" all 4 loader side lines @ the hyd coupler to hook it back up. Every year.

I have 8 lines on mine since I have the 3rd function and and extra set for my cutter and wood splitter. The main 4 are plumbed together in the quick detach option and the 4 others were installed in a way that they are really easy to access. As mentioned above turning off and also cycling controls relieves all pressure. I honestly thought it would be a bit more difficult than it was but since it is not mine will be off more often now.

 

[Reg]

Mine was a nightmare when it was delivered. I literally dreaded stopping and having to shift into Park. I had to use two hands, and all my strength, and even then sometimes could not get it in Park. I actually cracked the plastic around the lever handle. This is my first tractor so thought maybe it was me until I posted here. Then I had the dealer come out and make an adjustment and it's been fine since. Purchased in Feb of this year.

Any details of what was adjusted where, by how much, etc.
Ours is barely a week old and had to be PUSHED to relieve the stress on the trans before it would release.

EDIT:

I just checked the shop manual; the short vertical rod just in front of the hydraulic oil filter (right side, just in front of rear wheel) is the adjustment and the spec is 95mm (3.7 in).
Don't think I want to mess with it yet, may want to wait for a little more break in, maybe call the dealer on Monday.

BTW the flat bar sticking out from the transmission near that point is the park brake lever, if ours sticks in a location or at a time where/when another tractor can't push to release it we will probably resort to direct upward force on that lever.

FWIW, etc.

 

[Buxus]

I am not sure exactly what they adjusted. I was not present when they did it, but they said a "rod" just needed a small adjustment.

Any details of what was adjusted where, by how much, etc.
Ours is barely a week old and had to be PUSHED to relieve the stress on the trans before it would release.

EDIT:

I just checked the shop manual; the short vertical rod just in front of the hydraulic oil filter (right side, just in front of rear wheel) is the adjustment and the spec is 95mm (3.7 in).
Don't think I want to mess with it yet, may want to wait for a little more break in, maybe call the dealer on Monday.

BTW the flat bar sticking out from the transmission near that point is the park brake lever, if ours sticks in a location or at a time where/when another tractor can't push to release it we will probably resort to direct upward force on that lever.

FWIW, etc.

 

[oosik]

Regarding the hydraulic couplings on my M6040. I turn the tractor off - work the controls to relieve all pressure. The couplings come apart or go back together easily.

 

[Reg]

I am not sure exactly what they adjusted. I was not present when they did it, but they said a "rod" just needed a small adjustment.

I don't have a problem with getting the dealer to "come fix this", but I do have a problem with the idea of it getting stuck somewhere NASTY say late on a Saturday night and the dealer's mechanic not being able to get to it until Monday mid day, or later.

I just want to be able to get it out of park SOMEHOW ...and lifting that flat bar looks like it would do it - I am assuming there isn't a great amount of force multiplier through the linkage and given the distances that the knob end moves vs the plate and other bits that I have seen move as the know end is shifted I doubt that it takes much force at the end of that flat bar.

Paranoid ? Maybe, I'm trying to arm myself with a bit of knowledge for an anticipated situation.

Hahh, I don't yet know how that 95 mm is measured, center to center or straight rod length.
I'll get in there, if it is WAY off it should be obvious.

 

[ovrszd]

Don't your hyd lines give y'all a fit? I only take my loader off for the winter (all woods, no field work) and at the end of snowplowing, putting the loader back on I need to "break" all 4 loader side lines @ the hyd coupler to hook it back up. Every year.

Eric, try removing warm and reinstalling cold. If I can't do that I run the loader until I've warmed the fluid before removing. Your problem is expansion of fluid in the loader system.

 

[sixdogs]

Eric, try removing warm and reinstalling cold. If I can't do that I run the loader until I've warmed the fluid before removing. Your problem is expansion of fluid in the loader system.

Works for me. Warm before removing and install cold.
Took me a lot of sweat and heartache before I accidentally figured it out.

 

[Farmer495]

Don't your hyd lines give y'all a fit? I only take my loader off for the winter (all woods, no field work) and at the end of snowplowing, putting the loader back on I need to "break" all 4 loader side lines @ the hyd coupler to hook it back up. Every year.

Ditto on wiggle the joystick with the tractor off a million times before uncoupling hoses.

If temp difference etc, I have found if you push the stubborn coupler on as far as you can, hold it (gloved hand) and wiggle the joystick sometimes it will pop right on. I have never had to crack a line, but longest loader is off is a couple weeks. I have had all 4 not want to go on, loader removed cold oil cold day...hold and wiggle and no worries

 

[Fallon]

Ditto on wiggle the joystick with the tractor off a million times before uncoupling hoses.

If temp difference etc, I have found if you push the stubborn coupler on as far as you can, hold it (gloved hand) and wiggle the joystick sometimes it will pop right on. I have never had to crack a line, but longest loader is off is a couple weeks. I have had all 4 not want to go on, loader removed cold oil cold day...hold and wiggle and no worries

I've never had my loader off, but run into that issue all the time with my SSQA plow & PHD & the 3rd function QDs. As long as a cylinder isnt at max retract or extension managing to get one side hooked up relieves both sides, at least enough to hook up the other QD.

It's annoying enough I've thought about swapping at least 1 of the flat face QDs for a connect under pressure type. Those usually have a threaded collar on the so you can overcome the pressure with the leverage of an incline plane.

 

[hseII]

I was ridiculed for buying a M7060HD-12 to use for tree work.
“ You can’t load a log truck or Pulpwood truck or your chip truck with a Farm tractor.”





Ok.


It also does pretty good when loading pine tops into the Chipper.

 

[redman135]

For those who have trouble reconnecting the hydraulic line, have a look at a "multi coupling plate". I ave seen 2,4,and 6 gang plates and used the 4 gang. WAAAAAY better than individual lines AND you just DON'T have "stubborn connector problems". The bonus is it is a lot faster too.
See stucchiusa.com and go to multi coupling plate.
They are common on the larger JD MF NH Class and Fendt tractors.

 

[Rustyiron]

Eric, try removing warm and reinstalling cold. If I can't do that I run the loader until I've warmed the fluid before removing. Your problem is expansion of fluid in the loader system.

I'm pretty sure it's the 4 months or so of storage off the tractor during snow plowing season, I can see the loader "settles" hydraulically as the arms are not in the same position as when I disconnected. I'm done plowing for the year and put the loader back on a week ago and found that it just took a few taps of a hammer on a saw'ed off bolt on the "ball" in the female side of the Q/D's to squirt out just enough juice to allow re- connecting them. (the dealer put the male ends on the tractor side and the f/m end on the loader side) That was whole lot better than breaking a fitting loose! The tractor side is no problem being able to release the pressure with the "stick".

 

[ovrszd]

Oh yeah Eric, settling is the issue. Unless you had concrete to park it on you aren't going to escape that one.

 

[Rustyiron]

Richard I did put it in a shed this past winter but it still settled into the hard ground a few inch's.
Talk about fun, in past winters is trying to re hook while there's snow all around the loader that raises the tractor 4-6" :laughing:
This past hook up I had the fluid pass thorough from l/r loader cylinders and they were way out of "timing" to fit the tractor. I'm beginning to believe that it only takes a very few psi of pressure to male a q/c not so quick.

 

[mopardude318]

For those who have trouble reconnecting the hydraulic line, have a look at a "multi coupling plate". I ave seen 2,4,and 6 gang plates and used the 4 gang. WAAAAAY better than individual lines AND you just DON'T have "stubborn connector problems". The bonus is it is a lot faster too.
See stucchiusa.com and go to multi coupling plate.
They are common on the larger JD MF NH Class and Fendt tractors.

There is an option where you can order the tractor with those multi coupler, single lever plates. pretty cool but I didn't order mine with it. it was $700 or so

 

[Turbys_1700]

Those couplers are nice but pricey. I guess I'm lazy but I never take my loader off. Don't really have a need to. As others have stated my standard operating procedure is to wiggle the loader joy stick to relieve the pressure for removing the grapple.

 

[Reg]

I know RTFM is still a very unpopular thing to do, but I did it ONCE a very long time ago and....
Ta Dahh !

Relieving pressure in the hydraulic system SHOULD be a standard part of shutting down ANY tractor with a hydraulic system, whether you are attaching/detaching loader other implements or not.
No need to "Wiggle the stick a million times" but maybe two or three times forward/back and left/right.

Implements same/similar thing, on mine whether it is male or female I press the ball in with a socket set extension bar or something similar so there is no pressure to fight on either side.
Do it right or do it over ?
Yeah, do it right the first time and there doesn't need to be a second time.