My new L3301

[ChrisVi]

Congratulations on your new 3301. Mine was delivered yesterday so I look forward to using it a bit today. I did run it around a bit last night and noticed that there is a fuel pump noise of some sort, or perhaps something else that kind of gurgles when you turn the key to the "on" position. I keep expecting it to do it's thing for a few seconds and then stop, but it seems to just continue on. When I turn the key back to "off", the noise even continues for a few more seconds. Does yours do this also? I'm just trying to figure out if this is normal or not?

Chris

 

[coldfingers]

Glassback, I like your shed and lean to, nice. I need a lean to addition like that.

 

[Glassback]

Hi ChrisVi Congrats on your new tractor as well!
Yup, mine does the same. I believe it's what you think it is, an electric fuel supply pump that pressurizes the common rail to send fuel to the electronic injectors. I'm sure someone here can tell you if that's exactly right or not.

Thanks coldfingers! I framed it using trees from the property and nailed it together with steel rod. It was a fun build. Should be a pict here if I attached it right:

 

[ChrisVi]

Much thanks. Glad to hear that it is a normal thing. I did some work with it today, and it was great. I have been thinking about getting some liquid ballast in the rear tires, does yours have that already? Ill post a thorough post in a week or two once i have some more hours on it.

 

[s219]

Rear ballast is a must for these machines if you have a front loader. They have a light rear end. Definitely get the rear tires filled if you haven't already -- that will offset the weight of the front loader. And then plan to hitch up additional rear ballast when carrying materials in the front loader (could be a box blade or other heavy implement).

 

[Fallon]

Rear ballast is a must for these machines if you have a front loader. They have a light rear end. Definitely get the rear tires filled if you haven't already -- that will offset the weight of the front loader. And then plan to hitch up additional rear ballast when carrying materials in the front loader (could be a box blade or other heavy implement).

Definitely. With loaded tires & no ballast on the 3pt A 200lbs gate on my pallet forks caused me problems. I was setting the gate behind the barn on maybe a 4% slope while in 2wd. All of a sudden I loose traction & end up with pallet fork sized holes in the side of my barn. I'd had no problems with the other panels, but had ballast on the back (but was probably in 2wd for most of them as well).

Also pre loaded tires, went to lift half a pallet of bricks with my box blade on the back. could kind of sort of lift the pallet a little. turned the steering wheel & the back slid sideways rather than turning the front tires.

Also was traction limited a fair bit. More power limited now after loading the tires.

These tractors need loaded tires for safety & traction. Also, always keep ballast on the back, even when you have loaded tires when lifting with the loader. 3pt ballast will pull down on the back like a teeter totter, taking some weight off your comparatively week front axle where loaded tires won't.

 

[Fallon]

Much thanks. Glad to hear that it is a normal thing. I did some work with it today, and it was great. I have been thinking about getting some liquid ballast in the rear tires, does yours have that already? Ill post a thorough post in a week or two once i have some more hours on it.

I did the same thing because I was unsure as well & my new dealer didn't have the pump to load em yet. Glad I know what loading gets me now, but if/when I upgrade to a cabbed Grand, it will have loaded rears the day I haul it home. It should be a requirement on the Kubota 00 & 01's unless you are only pulling a mower.

 

[Glassback]

I have been thinking about getting some liquid ballast in the rear tires, does yours have that already?

Yeah, exactly what everybody else said. Fill the tires and put something on the back for ballast. I put on the box blade but it makes for a long tractor in tight quarters. Like when I'm using the forks to pick up logs in the woods. I'm going to look into a block or filling a drum with concrete for the 3pt.

One other lesson I've learned, if you have R4s and want chains you need a set of $380 spacers so the chains can clear the fender. I found this out after the deal was done. I spec'd the tractor with chains but the sales guy didn't realize it needed the spacers. He said his mess up so they'll cover it.

 

[k0ua]

One other lesson I've learned, if you have R4s and want chains you need a set of $380 spacers so the chains can clear the fender. I found this out after the deal was done. I spec'd the tractor with chains but the sales guy didn't realize it needed the spacers. He said his mess up so they'll cover it.

That sounds like a good dealer!:thumbsup:

 

[Glassback]

Definitely a good dealer. I got it from Champlain Valley Equipment in Middlebury, Vt. The sales guy is Fran Welch. They picked the tractor up and had it back the next day with the spacers and chains installed.

 

[Kubota L3301]

Congratulations on your new 3301. Mine was delivered yesterday so I look forward to using it a bit today. I did run it around a bit last night and noticed that there is a fuel pump noise of some sort, or perhaps something else that kind of gurgles when you turn the key to the "on" position. I keep expecting it to do it's thing for a few seconds and then stop, but it seems to just continue on. When I turn the key back to "off", the noise even continues for a few more seconds. Does yours do this also? I'm just trying to figure out if this is normal or not?

Chris

Hi Chris, I have a new 3301 and it does the same thing. Does yours still do it or have you found out it is normal? I keep forgetting to ask the dealer if this is normal

 

[ChrisVi]

Yup, I have heard from others that this is normal for our tractors. On another note, when you are sitting, with the engine running, in one of the ranges H M or L, does your tractor make a bit of a clicking noise that goes away when you press in the clutch? I have only 18 hours on mine now, and noticed this noise the other day and don't remember if it's made it all along or not. I think it's probably normal, but want to verify. Enjoy your new tractor, I had my first regen the other day at 17.5 hrs, was not a big deal at all, just pushed the throttle up to a bit over 2000 rpm, and the light went out after about 15 minutes.

 

[Glassback]

does your tractor make a bit of a clicking noise that goes away when you press in the clutch? I have only 18 hours on mine now, and noticed this noise the other day and don't remember if it's made it all along or not.

Mine does. You have a HST? Seems like it dis/engages the hydro pump. I'm still not sure why there is a clutch with the HST. Anyone?

 

[Kubota L3301]

Yup, I have heard from others that this is normal for our tractors. On another note, when you are sitting, with the engine running, in one of the ranges H M or L, does your tractor make a bit of a clicking noise that goes away when you press in the clutch? I have only 18 hours on mine now, and noticed this noise the other day and don't remember if it's made it all along or not. I think it's probably normal, but want to verify. Enjoy your new tractor, I had my first regen the other day at 17.5 hrs, was not a big deal at all, just pushed the throttle up to a bit over 2000 rpm, and the light went out after about 15 minutes.

Chris Mine is not HST, it is the Gear Drive Transmission. It still does that clicking noise until you press the clutch.

 

[k0ua]

Mine does. You have a HST? Seems like it dis/engages the hydro pump. I'm still not sure why there is a clutch with the HST. Anyone?

On you machine the clutch has two functions. It allows you to engage and disengages the PTO smoothly, by feathering the PTO load, and it is also has a safety switch operated by the clutch pedal to ensure it will not start unless the clutch is pushed in. It is also useful at times to relieve pressure on the hydro to allow easier range changes, but it is not absolutely necessary that you push in the clutch to change ranges, it just makes it a little easier sometimes.

 

[s219]

When the clutch is engaged, you are spinning up a lot of gears and rotating parts in the transmission and PTO drive (whether or not a gear or PTO is engaged). Both my Kubotas made a noticeable racket when the clutch was engaged. Not anything I'd consider out of the ordinary or worrisome.

 

[Glassback]

On you machine the clutch has two functions. It allows you to engage and disengages the PTO smoothly, by feathering the PTO load, and it is also has a safety switch operated by the clutch pedal to ensure it will not start unless the clutch is pushed in. It is also useful at times to relieve pressure on the hydro to allow easier range changes, but it is not absolutely necessary that you push in the clutch to change ranges, it just makes it a little easier sometimes.

Yup, you need the clutch to engage the PTO. Just went out and tried it. I've been doing loader, forks and box blade work so I haven't used the PTO yet.

There is no clutch safety switch for starting with this hydro. You can start right up without depressing the clutch. The start safety switch is on the speed control pedal instead. If you're depressing that pedal, forward or reverse, turning the key does nothing.

You're right that the clutch isn't needed for range changes either. Like the manual says, if there is trouble switching ranges, slightly pressing the speed control pedal rotates the gears. That's worked every time for me, even on slopes. The manual says if you're still having trouble you can use the clutch but I haven't had to.

I'm just over 120hrs on my 3301 and the big annoyance so far is the Operator Presence Control. The "your butt is in the seat" switch. I can be seated with the seat belt on but if I'm leaning to the right to see the edge of my bucket or the edge of the box blade the seat switch will shut down the tractor. It could use an adjustment.

 

[s219]

There is no clutch safety switch for starting with this hydro. You can start right up without depressing the clutch. The start safety switch is on the speed control pedal instead. If you're depressing that pedal, forward or reverse, turning the key does nothing.

Interesting -- the L3200/3800 (near identical except for Tier IV Final, seat, throttle lever, and dash gauges) has a safety switch on the clutch pedal, and can't be started unless the clutch pedal is pushed in. Also has switch on the HST treadle.

 

[k0ua]

Interesting -- the L3200/3800 (near identical except for Tier IV Final, seat, throttle lever, and dash gauges) has a safety switch on the clutch pedal, and can't be started unless the clutch pedal is pushed in. Also has switch on the HST treadle.

I guess they got rid of one extra safety switch.

 

[Fallon]

Ya, the clutch on my L3200 HST is only for starting & PTO. Not sure why they kept the clutch switch from the gear models as it serves no significant purpose on the HST. Probably cheaper to use a common wiring harness I guess, but the HST has the safety switch on the go pedal. I occasionally think about defeating that switch but haven't been motivated enough yet.

I ziptied down my seat safety switch pretty fast though. Easy to remove if I sell it or put a rookie on the tractor.

I'm in the habit of engaging the PTO after shutdown as a cheap anti-theft device. Bit me in the *** a month or so ago after a month or 2 of non use. Checked fuses, had the manual out & was hitting seat & clutch safety switches with the multimeter before I remembered.