My new old 2N

[Soundguy]

as you noticed they have very limited timing adjustment.

introdue ANY wear, and you get a situation where you can onoy set it 'clos'

I know guys that can't get points open to .015 due to wear...

 

[bcp]

(Edited)
If the bearings(bushings), etc. are good, why replace it? The actual timing(Running) is what matters, not the position of the housing(Breaker plate), etc.

It may be an aftermarket distributor that was assembled a little differently than the factory one.

(The points may be aftermarket and a tiny bit difference in specs than they should be, or wrong application that the previous owner thought would work.) (Did someone replace the adjustment screw with one from a hardware store?)
(Maybe replace breaker plate or points instead of a whole distributor.)

Bruce

Reason for editing:
(I need to not post when I'm hot and tired, and keep my tractors straight. I've worked on many, too long ago to keep the memories sorted. I've seen things put on just because they "looked the same", and then the user not being able to adjust it properly and blaming something else, or bend/beat to fit, or wanting to replace expensive assemblies when only one little piece is bad.)

The forum needs a strikethrough font.

 

[Soundguy]

with that comment I'm guessing you have NEVER seen or worked on a ford front mount distribuitor.. right?

no bearings.

no clockable distribuitor housing

it's a fixed front distribuitor that bolts rigid to the engine with 2 bolts.

it is offset cam/tang driven off the front of the engine. you CANNOT rotate the dizzy to change timing. timing is adjusted by moving the breaker plate via a small screw on the side of the exterior housing. and on a front mount.. there is precious little adjustment as it is.

soundguy

 

[bcp]

I worked on my 8n distributor, but it was so long ago and so many others since then, I can't remember any details, even which style it was.

My main point is that if you can get correct timing, the position of the parts is of minor importance.

Bruce

 

[Soundguy]

My main point is that if you can get correct timing, the position of the parts is of minor importance.

Bruce

and my point is that the ford front mount dizzy is not like a regular dizzy where you can grab it and rotate it to change timing.

this one is rigidly bolted to the block. it moves exactly -0- when bolted down.

instead you actually move the breaker plate via a screw adjustment.. of which there is VERY little.

so the comment about position of parts is not relevant to this discussion AT ALL and will only serve to CONFUSE the real issues here. your 8n must have been a later side mount.

ALL 9n and 2n and early 8n used a fixed front mount dizzy. mid late 8n+ used a convention dizzy ont he side of the engine you could rotate to change timing.

 

[2Njohn]

Good thing is hogging is all done. I dropped the hog put finish mower back on. Time for a beer.

 

[Soundguy]

good to hear!

 

[2Njohn]

I am thinking about rebuilding the carb next. If it ain't broke don't fix it I always say, but I got to tinker. Mowing is pretty well done for the year, but the previous owner told me the float would stick at times.

Also he told me any more than 5 gallons in the fuel tank and it leaks so I will pull the tank out find the crack or hole and braze it or try some of that inside coating stuff I have read about.

 

[Soundguy]

on the leak.. unless you see a bit of damge causing the leak, which you can spot repair.. the usuale method is repalcement, or lining.

the problem with rust pinholes is you can start spot fixing them and then more open.

seams can be hard to fix correctly.. thus lining handles both pinholes and cracks.. as long as the tank is not plain out rotten.

sticky flota can be crud.. from a rusty tank. might kill 2 brids with 1 stone.

check to make sure all 3 screens are in place inthe fuel system. that and the setling bowl and about 99% of the junk is caught..

 

[2Njohn]

Will do I replaced the screen at the sediment bowl about a week ago it was fine but the gasket started to leak. Screen came with new cork gasket.

I know of the screen in the 90 degree fitting at the carb I have not checked it. Which one am I missing?

My guess is my leak must be at the seam of the tank. I will probably spend the dough on a new generator before I replace the tank if the coating junk can't fix up.