My NX5510H

[DieselBound]

Eric, thanks for the info. No dealers even close. Over $1,200 for shipping

Regarding my drawbar/ball issue/concern, I had tried out a 2" ball when I really have to have a 2 5/16" (I've got one on a hitch but was too lazy to pull it off). Picked up the 2 5/16" ball and verified it fits properly.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Eric, thanks for the info. No dealers even close. Over $1,200 for shipping

Regarding my drawbar/ball issue/concern, I had tried out a 2" ball when I really have to have a 2 5/16" (I've got one on a hitch but was too lazy to pull it off). Picked up the 2 5/16" ball and verified it fits properly.

That is an insane amount for shipping.

 

[DieselBound]

That is an insane amount for shipping.

Yeah. I was trying to get a hold of a guy that transported a Polaris for me to see what he'd want for hauling a Gannon (found a nice one that would be along his normal travel routes). He transports trailers, and anything that he can toss on the back of his truck is extra gravy for him. That Gannon, however, was about the same price as one of these TuffLines.

 

[DieselBound]

Finally! Tractor time

Installed a ball on draw bar. Have run about 5 loads so far. Seems to be working out real well. Only issue so far is that frozen material is sticking to the dump trailer and I have to do a lot of prodding with a shovel to get it out (and the dump trailer has a pretty extreme dump angle!). Now have 13 hours on the tractor!

 

[DieselBound]

Been getting in several more material runs. Tractor now up just over 25 hrs.



I've hauled and graded 30+ yds of material (not including about 2 yds of leftover 5/8" minus from the site prep) for the garage. Here's what it looked like (with only those couple of yds of 5/8" down in front of the first bay):



Here's how it's shaping up (I will let it settle and pack for now):

 

[DieselBound]

Things are finally settling down here and I'm itching to get underway installing my extra hydraulic bits. First I figured I'd do the top-link. Looking for some input on how best to route the hoses and position the fittings on the top-link.

The factory top-link holder bracket seems to limit full upward travel of the top-link with hoses coming out to the left. Not sure how much travel I'd be losing, don't think it's much; but, I don't want to jam hoses. So, I'm thinking that I should remove that hanger and bracket. I'd need to use something like a bungee until I get a quick hitch.

I'll likely swap the positions of the two fittings so that the taller one is at the rear (toward the tractor): I was moving them around to see if it would buy me more clearance/travel (not much, and not enough).

 

[DK35vince]

I put my check valve down for more room

 

[DieselBound]

While I was contemplating the top-link issue my tractor was called in to service:

 

[DieselBound]

I put my check valve down for more room

Ha! :thumbsup: I'll have to play around with it oriented like this to see how things want to behave.

 

[DieselBound]

Vince, now you've got me thinking... Is there any reason why a person couldn't loosen up and rotate that block 90 degrees (in my case I'd look to rotate it counterclockwise)?