lincolnvt
Silver Member
Wow! Very nice install - appreciate your time posting. Can't wait to see some TnT action shots with the box blade
Cheers,
Brad
Cheers,
Brad
My Remote and TnT Install on L3400
- Thread starter canoetrpr
- Start date
- Views: 14178
wushaw
Elite Member
Very nice
After you get to using your BB you will see how nice it it to have the TNT.
After you get to using your BB you will see how nice it it to have the TNT.
Bird
Rest in Peace
This is a good thread that I believe will help a lot of other people who have questions about TnT. I appreciate your posting the information and photos.
zapper
Member
I would like to copy the mounting bracket that canoetrpr and strangeranger used for the prince valve. I have a b2910 that I previously installed the same valve, that I use for an hydraulic toplink . Madrefere helped me on this several years ago. I have been unhappy of my mount though. Is it possible you can send me or post detail bracket pics and dimensions so I can have the mounting bracket made for me. Thanks for any help guys.
OP
canoetrpr
Veteran Member
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zapper, here is a link to the thread that StrangeRanger have been communicating about our install in. That link will take you to the page where SR posted the drawings for the mounting plate. Dead simple.
I would recommend that you take your own measurements for the distance between the holes.
I had the side plates welded about 76 or 77mm apart to fit over the ROPS. I also suggest that you measure your ROPS thickness carefully and add a 1 to 2 mm to it.
I would recommend that you take your own measurements for the distance between the holes.
I had the side plates welded about 76 or 77mm apart to fit over the ROPS. I also suggest that you measure your ROPS thickness carefully and add a 1 to 2 mm to it.
OP
canoetrpr
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Rob:
I've had a 600 lb or so ballast box attached to the 3pt with the 3pt raised and the side link extended to 1/2 of it's stroke. Left it for a couple days. The SL cylinder has not moved at all.
Can't wait to try it on my brand new box blade this weekend!
I've had a 600 lb or so ballast box attached to the 3pt with the 3pt raised and the side link extended to 1/2 of it's stroke. Left it for a couple days. The SL cylinder has not moved at all.
Can't wait to try it on my brand new box blade this weekend!
OP
canoetrpr
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Talk about heartbreaking.
I wandered out today to hook up my brand new box blade and found that the hydraulic top link is about 1 inch too short.
I've got a Pat's so that puts the lower links out by 4 inches. I'm guessing StrangeRanger does not have a Pats which is why his TL fits fine. I was paranoid and wanted to ensure that I didnt' get one too long so that I would be able to shorten the top link and rip. I got the 18"-26.5" which is the middle size that CCM sells.
A note to anyone with a L3400 and a Pat's like me - I suggest going with the largest TL that CCM sells - 21-32".
I think that my best bet is going to be to hire the machinist that did my valve mount to do an extension bracket like the one I've seen on another thread here.
Was really looking forward to working on my drive this weekend
I wandered out today to hook up my brand new box blade and found that the hydraulic top link is about 1 inch too short
. I've got a Pat's so that puts the lower links out by 4 inches. I'm guessing StrangeRanger does not have a Pats which is why his TL fits fine. I was paranoid and wanted to ensure that I didnt' get one too long so that I would be able to shorten the top link and rip. I got the 18"-26.5" which is the middle size that CCM sells.
A note to anyone with a L3400 and a Pat's like me - I suggest going with the largest TL that CCM sells - 21-32".
I think that my best bet is going to be to hire the machinist that did my valve mount to do an extension bracket like the one I've seen on another thread here.
Was really looking forward to working on my drive this weekend
lincolnvt
Silver Member
Bummer - sorry to hear that. Good luck with the modification
StrangeRanger
Gold Member
Hi all,
Canoe and I did the same install at the same time and I have to say his looks a little better b/c he bothered to paint his cylinders But the install and all was a lot easier than I had imagined it was going to be.
I live in the states and can say that my total cost was substantially less. Canoe I definitely feel for you bud, your shipping and taxes must have been CRAZY!
Canoe, in your last (I think last) pic, where you show your hyd block, you've done pretty much what I mentioned, but you may want to move that zip tie to the spot I mentioned. I envisioned a zip tie in the location not lasting very long. If you follow the foot deck back to the fender you'll see a bolt that connects the fender and deck. A wide zip tie turned side ways will go over that bolt and hang down to under the deck. Leave it hanging like a loop and you can then run a zip tie around your hoses and through that loop. That will get the hoses up out of the way like we want, but the zip tie is back and down kind of between the fender and deck protected from your feet and other things.
Way sorry to hear about the link being too short!! OMG that must suck.
I've got quite a few hours on my TnT w/ my BB and blade and love it. And yes they do have the DPCV's. Folks argue both ways whether you need them or not, but the CCM cylinders come w/ them so... I have zero leak down. My "driveway" is about 2,200' long and I don't know how I ever did it w/out the TnT before.
If anyone else is considering a TnT, you may want to see the thread that Canoe started where we went back and forth w/ things: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/117710-l3400-ccm-hydraulic-top-link.html
j
Canoe and I did the same install at the same time and I have to say his looks a little better b/c he bothered to paint his cylinders
But the install and all was a lot easier than I had imagined it was going to be. I live in the states and can say that my total cost was substantially less. Canoe I definitely feel for you bud, your shipping and taxes must have been CRAZY!
Canoe, in your last (I think last) pic, where you show your hyd block, you've done pretty much what I mentioned, but you may want to move that zip tie to the spot I mentioned. I envisioned a zip tie in the location not lasting very long. If you follow the foot deck back to the fender you'll see a bolt that connects the fender and deck. A wide zip tie turned side ways will go over that bolt and hang down to under the deck. Leave it hanging like a loop and you can then run a zip tie around your hoses and through that loop. That will get the hoses up out of the way like we want, but the zip tie is back and down kind of between the fender and deck protected from your feet and other things.
Way sorry to hear about the link being too short!! OMG that must suck.
I've got quite a few hours on my TnT w/ my BB and blade and love it. And yes they do have the DPCV's. Folks argue both ways whether you need them or not, but the CCM cylinders come w/ them so... I have zero leak down. My "driveway" is about 2,200' long and I don't know how I ever did it w/out the TnT before.
If anyone else is considering a TnT, you may want to see the thread that Canoe started where we went back and forth w/ things: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/117710-l3400-ccm-hydraulic-top-link.html
j
3RRL
Super Member
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- 55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284
Canoe,
You have seen the thread about Loretta's tractor when I added Pat's to it? I cut a section out of the lower drag links.
Here is another thread with a similar question about Pat's and I posted in reply #6. Pat's System - Fab Extension
It may not be what you want to do, but it is a good alternative to keep ALL the implements closer to the tractor and retain your max 3pt lift. Bill decided not to go that way, but you can remove a section wherever to make it work.
I also am glad to hear a lot of you guys are happy with the CCM top link and their DPOCV's. I've been a proponent of the check valve use having put them on many cylinders where I like (need) them to stay in the position I choose. Especially for boxblade work when dragging my road smooth. Once I find the "sweet spot" where the road comes out perfect, it stays there. I've got one on both top links, I put them on my side links (DIY job), on my hyd gauge wheels and even on my backhoe stabilizer legs all for the same reasons.
I like them so much I want to install one on my kids mouth.
You have seen the thread about Loretta's tractor when I added Pat's to it? I cut a section out of the lower drag links.
Here is another thread with a similar question about Pat's and I posted in reply #6. Pat's System - Fab Extension
It may not be what you want to do, but it is a good alternative to keep ALL the implements closer to the tractor and retain your max 3pt lift. Bill decided not to go that way, but you can remove a section wherever to make it work.
I also am glad to hear a lot of you guys are happy with the CCM top link and their DPOCV's. I've been a proponent of the check valve use having put them on many cylinders where I like (need) them to stay in the position I choose. Especially for boxblade work when dragging my road smooth. Once I find the "sweet spot" where the road comes out perfect, it stays there. I've got one on both top links, I put them on my side links (DIY job), on my hyd gauge wheels and even on my backhoe stabilizer legs all for the same reasons.
I like them so much I want to install one on my kids mouth.