N H Ford 445C TCM no. FONN7Z319AAR.

[eKretz]

What fluids are you concerned about? I've picked Shell Rotella T6 for engine oil, Shell ELC for coolant, and my hydraulic fluid, trans, rear diff and front axle fluids (all the same spec'd fluid on these) are due for a full flush/change in the spring but I haven't decided what to use yet. I've added a little of the VP J20 fluid just to top up. I've read lots of different thoughts on this, some people say that the wrong fluid will cause clutch and brake damage. I would be interested to hear what @TractorTech thoughts are on the subject.

As a side note, I've dropped my PWM setting for the FWD & REV solenoids (setting #1) to 85% also, just to keep things near 12V - since that wasn't spec'd in the manual as "full battery voltage" like the lockup solenoid. It doesn't seem to have made any kind of difference in terms of actual operation as far as I can tell. I just ran my machine for about 4 hours over the last week clearing snow and building the kids a small sledding hill, everything working great.

One of these days I may pull the fuel tank and actually have a look at the solenoid coils to see if I can pull a mfr's part number. Would be interesting to see if I can find an actual rated voltage.

 

[TractorTech]

First, the hydraulic oil should be a high quality trans/hydraulic fluid. New Holland's MultiGrade 134™ Hydraulic Transmission Oil is what is called for and equivalent oils will list the 134D spec on their label. I personally use Mobil Delvac or 424, but Shell, Kubota UDT and other notable fluids will work well.
In the front axle and hubs, you can also use 80w90 in warmer climates to reduce leakage. @fred saas, I added a chart for capacities on your 445C

Something to note on Tractor Loaders with FWD, make sure you grease the rear pivot bushing as it contains a thin oring that contains the oil in the front axle. Lose oil, lock up reversing gearbox and $$$$$$.
TLBs do not have this reversing box.

Lastly, the coils are 12v. The replacement coil that is sold on Amazon and other places is shown here:

 

[eKretz]

That's a nominal rating on the solenoid label, too bad there's no data sheet. And intermittent duty doesn't seem correct, these coils should be continuous duty rated... Intermittent duty solenoids are for something like a starter where they're only used for a short period, then allowed to cool.

I've seen lots of argument back and forth on message boards about the trans oils. Some guys say the label needs to specifically say "meets or exceeds 134D" or whatever rating, not just show it on the label. Then some say they used an oil that didn't say "meets or exceeds" and it ruined their clutches or brakes, or made them shudder. Hard to know what to believe, reading some of these message boards. I should like to think that any oil that mentions the required spec on the label should be good. Perhaps those guys just had a bad run of luck with their machine.

 

[fred saas]

The problem was that the 'Speed' on the controller (display) was set to 0%. Once it was set to 60% - off she went!

eKretz and I both settled at 85%. Dead slow when I remove my foot from the pedal. A soft clunk in a couple seconds. give it rpms and off you go. Again, foot on clutch pedal, dead slow, shift, take foot off pedal, couple of seconds, soft clunk, then rpms. I hope I made some sense.

 

[fred saas]

That's a nominal rating on the solenoid label, too bad there's no data sheet. And intermittent duty doesn't seem correct, these coils should be continuous duty rated... Intermittent duty solenoids are for something like a starter where they're only used for a short period, then allowed to cool.

I've seen lots of argument back and forth on message boards about the trans oils. Some guys say the label needs to specifically say "meets or exceeds 134D" or whatever rating, not just show it on the label. Then some say they used an oil that didn't say "meets or exceeds" and it ruined their clutches or brakes, or made them shudder. Hard to know what to believe, reading some of these message boards. I should like to think that any oil that mentions the required spec on the label should be good. Perhaps those guys just had a bad run of luck with their machine.

Boy oh boy, I never thought this tractor would be so time consuming, but I guess nothing good comes without some adversity.

 

[eKretz]

Boy oh boy, I never thought this tractor would be so time consuming, but I guess nothing good comes without some adversity.

Yeah, a bit, I suppose. But it's worth it to get a good machine in the end.

 

[bnkrupt]

Ok, here is the pinout and connection guide for my 555D using 2 controllers, one for forward and one for reverse. The controllers are "Hanlei CCM-TK." This will allow the machine to function just as it originally did with the shuttle lever. Merry Christmas! Be sure to check your individual machine's schematic to be sure your wires are the same before using these colors! I attached photos of the controller terminals so you can see the labeling of the terminals as well as the two plugs that I sourced from the original TCM. Follow the connections in the 2nd image with the text, ignore the connections in the controller terminal image - that is currently set up for my temporary drive method that uses the toggle switch rather than 2 individual controllers. All of the original safety interlocks should still function with this setup if they were active and not previously disabled, as the power for both the brown and gray wires (FWD and REV signals) comes off of the red wire, which gets shut off if any of the interlock contacts are broken in the electrical path. If any of those were previously disabled, they will still be disabled.

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Ok, here is the pinout and connection guide for my 555D using 2 controllers, one for forward and one for reverse. The controllers are "Hanlei CCM-TK." This will allow the machine to function just as it originally did with the shuttle lever. Merry Christmas! Be sure to check your individual machine's schematic to be sure your wires are the same before using these colors! I attached photos of the controller terminals so you can see the labeling of the terminals as well as the two plugs that I sourced from the original TCM. Follow the connections in the 2nd image with the text, ignore the connections in the controller terminal image - that is currently set up for my temporary drive method that uses the toggle switch rather than 2 individual controllers. All of the original safety interlocks should still function with this setup if they were active and not previously disabled, as the power for both the brown and gray wires (FWD and REV signals) comes off of the red wire, which gets shut off if any of the interlock contacts are broken in the electrical path. If any of those were previously disabled, they will still be disabled.

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eKretz do you think this would work the same on a Ford 445C tractor? I think my module is the problem with mine. Can you tell me what this is and if I can replace with something like an inline fuse. I have some that I can’t take apart like this one. It may be bad

 

[eKretz]

I believe the controller is the same. The item in your picture looks like a diode. You should be able to easily test it with a multimeter that has a "diode test" function. Most modern digital meters have that. It should conduct and display voltage drop in one direction, and "OL" in the other. (Swap leads/terminals to test opposite directions).