N H Ford 445C TCM no. FONN7Z319AAR.

[fred saas]

eKretz, I had a md appt this am. Here's what I did and checked 1 3.0, 2 0.2 3 00.0, 4 100.0, 5 0.1, 6 10.0, 7 10.0, 8 A.
FWD: i checked PWR to (+) motor = 0.0
PWR to (-) motor = 3.7v

REV. PWR to (+) motor = 0.0
PWR to (-) motor 2.8v
I checked shifting all the motions = 0.0.
BTW, I see my battery is reading 10.9 to 11.1. I have it on charge, Fred

 

[eKretz]

Hmm. Where exactly are you placing the meter leads when you check "power to motor +" and "power to motor -" as you should be checking with one meter lead on each of those terminals, not checking them separately. Those two motor terminals should be connected one to each side of a solenoid coil. You can double check that by removing the wires from those terminals and checking the resistance in ohms across the two wires - you should have in the neighborhood of 6-10 ohms across the solenoid coil.

 

[fred saas]

eKretz and TractorTech, A mechanical engineer friend stopped by today and had it running in a couple minutes. I've gotta digest what he did before I try to explain it. I'm celebrating tonight with some fine cardboardeaux. It still needs some adjustments; I felt the start was too hard so I put it in the shed until I can look it over next.

 

[eKretz]

Excellent news, congratulations!

 

[fred saas]

Excellent news, congratulations!

Without yours and TracterTech Ted's help, sadly, I'd be scratching my head into the future! Thank you.

 

[eKretz]

Be sure your idle is low enough. Shifting on my machine feels a little harsh at higher rpm if I leave it up higher with the lever after a cold start on accident, but so did the original controller.

 

[fred saas]

Be sure your idle is low enough. Shifting on my machine feels a little harsh at higher rpm if I leave it up higher with the lever after a cold start on accident, but so did the original controller.

I just read this now, after posting the Tallahatchie bridge. I think I messed up your name, sorry!

Be sure your idle is low enough. Shifting on my machine feels a little harsh at higher rpm if I leave it up higher with the lever after a cold start on accident, but so did the original controller.

eKretz,yes it is a disturbing jerk. I've put it low gears and slowed it down before shifting. 1. is set at 9.4 v, I will set it at 7 volts and see if that will lessen the jerk. maybe the solenoid only needs less volts to activate and somewhere there is a sweet spot. I'm only guessing.

 

[eKretz]

I would not lower the voltage, I would instead try increasing setting number 1 on the controllers to a higher number of seconds. That should bring the voltage in slower. I disagree with your guy about lowering the voltage. By doing that you could end up inadvertently slipping the clutches. By doing so you are weakening the magnetic field that shifts the solenoid - that could allow it to pop out of and into engagement, increasing wear on your clutches. The solenoid is basically like an on/off valve that can be feathered just like your loader valve - the difference is that you don't want to hold it at partial engagement for long periods, because it's what applies hydraulic pressure to your clutch pack to keep it engaged. You want to bring it in slow enough to be unobtrusive, but then keep it locked in tight.

 

[fred saas]

eKretz, TractorTech, On #1. I have 3.0 seconds above and 65% below. I had a hard jerk. Today I reduced it to 45% and it was a much gentler Jerk.

I would not lower the voltage, I would instead try increasing setting number 1 on the controllers to a higher number of seconds. That should bring the voltage in slower. I disagree with your guy about lowering the voltage. By doing that you could end up inadvertently slipping the clutches. By doing so you are weakening the magnetic field that shifts the solenoid - that could allow it to pop out of and into engagement, increasing wear on your clutches. The solenoid is basically like an on/off valve that can be feathered just like your loader valve - the difference is that you don't want to hold it at partial engagement for long periods, because it's what applies hydraulic pressure to your clutch pack to keep it engaged. You want to bring it in slow enough to be unobtrusive, but then keep it locked in tight.

I will go back to 9v and be gentle shifting. My guy agrees with you about about lowering the voltage. It was my brilliant idea.

 

[jbmcc1]

I would not lower the voltage, I would instead try increasing setting number 1 on the controllers to a higher number of seconds. That should bring the voltage in slower. I disagree with your guy about lowering the voltage. By doing that you could end up inadvertently slipping the clutches. By doing so you are weakening the magnetic field that shifts the solenoid - that could allow it to pop out of and into engagement, increasing wear on your clutches. The solenoid is basically like an on/off valve that can be feathered just like your loader valve - the difference is that you don't want to hold it at partial engagement for long periods, because it's what applies hydraulic pressure to your clutch pack to keep it engaged. You want to bring it in slow enough to be unobtrusive, but then keep it locked in tight.

I'm working with Fred on this. We tried changing the #1 Ramp time to 13 seconds. It just seemed to delay the 'jerk'.
I thought possibly we were tapped into the Lockup instead of the regular solenoid?
Thanks, - Jim