N H Ford 445C TCM no. FONN7Z319AAR.

[eKretz]

I think the original lock-up switch is a momentary push button, right? If that's correct, you can't use that without a special circuit, since there's no easy way to switch on/off with the momentary switch without one.
eKretz, Do I need to use the lovkup? Can I just forget it?If I do require it, what is a special circuit? what does that mean? Thanks, Fred

The lockup is basically just an internal clutch that locks the torque converter so it doesn't slip. If it never worked before I think that answers your question right there. I think it's more useful when roading or when in a very very low crawling gear maybe. A special circuit would involve something like a flip-flop and latching relay, pretty complicated. Better to just use a toggle switch if you want to use the lockup.

 

[fred saas]

The lockup is basically just an internal clutch that locks the torque converter so it doesn't slip. If it never worked before I think that answers your question right there. I think it's more useful when roading or when in a very very low crawling gear maybe. A special circuit would involve something like a flip-flop and latching relay, pretty complicated. Better to just use a toggle switch if you want to use the lockup.

Yeah, I'm not particularly looking forward to getting it back in. It will probably cost me a few choice words, I think...

With the fuel filters swiveled up 90 degrees, I could reach that back nut or was it a bolt, anyway I could reach it with my fingers.

 

[fred saas]

1. I can't figure out how to adjust the Hanlei controllers. 2.Is it ok to hot wire controllers thru my key which I've done but haven't turned anything on to the solenoids yet until I learn how to set them. I can't. seem to get any juice from the power (+) grey and brown. 3. I will continue to track power (+) on the grey and brown.

 

[eKretz]

You should get power on the gray or brown wires only when the key is on and the shuttle shifter is moved to forward or reverse. You should have a list of the settable parameters on the paper that came in the box and also there's a reference sticker by the terminals. To cycle through the options you need to hit the button that looks like a gear while the controller is powered up. That gets you to the first option, then you can either use the arrow keys to adjust or hit the gear button again to move to the next one. When finished, press the on/off button to exit the setup menu.

I would advise not connecting any of the solenoid wires to anything while you're just powered up from the temporary wire. The way I have this set up, the controllers will be completely off unless the machine is shifted into forward or reverse. Then an individual controller will be powered up by the gray or brown wire, as applicable, and immediately turn on to soft start the corresponding solenoid circuit. That is a built-in feature of these controllers, and is the only reason they can be used with the shuttle shifter with no other circuitry and no alteration of the original wiring.

 

[fred saas]

The lockup is basically just an internal clutch that locks the torque converter so it doesn't slip. If it never worked before I think that answers your question right there. I think it's more useful when roading or when in a very very low crawling gear maybe. A special circuit would involve something like a flip-flop and latching relay, pretty complicated. Better to just use a toggle switch if you want to use the lockup.

The only panel on my machine that needs to come off is the flat panel under the steering wheel up under which the module was bolted in. And yes Fred, the red wire is extraneous in this application. You can just leave it taped or capped with heat shrink.

On that note, I finally received my correct order and got the other controllers I ordered. I made up a small extension harness tonight and tested the controllers, everything is working perfectly via shuttle switch. I used the same color wires on my harness that the original harness uses. I'll include a photo of the wired connections. I just ran a jumper across from "Power -" on one controller and connected it to the same terminal on the other with a black wire. On the overload setting I set it at 3.0 amps, and I think I'm settled on a 3.0 second soft start. I left the under-voltage protection setting at 10.0 V. I left my displays set for amperage so I can monitor the current the solenoid coils are pulling. Oh, and the "soft stop" timer I set to 0.2 second so that it's almost instant off.

View attachment 842460

View attachment 842461

(On the overload setting I set it at 3.0 amps, and I think I'm settled on a 3.0 second soft start. I left the under-voltage protection setting at 10.0 V.) I can't figure out how to adjust the Hanlei's.

 

[TractorTech]

I think the original lock-up switch is a momentary push button, right? If that's correct, you can't use that without a special circuit, since there's no easy way to switch on/off with the momentary switch without one.
eKretz, Do I need to use the lovkup? Can I just forget it?If I do require it, what is a special circuit? what does that mean? Thanks, Fred

Lockup is only recommended for light draft loads, PTO and roading.

 

[fred saas]

You should get power on the gray or brown wires only when the key is on and the shuttle shifter is moved to forward or reverse. You should have a list of the settable parameters on the paper that came in the box and also there's a reference sticker by the terminals. To cycle through the options you need to hit the button that looks like a gear while the controller is powered up. That gets you to the first option, then you can either use the arrow keys to adjust or hit the gear button again to move to the next one. When finished, press the on/off button to exit the setup menu.

I would advise not connecting any of the solenoid wires to anything while you're just powered up from the temporary wire. The way I have this set up, the controllers will be completely off unless the machine is shifted into forward or reverse. Then an individual controller will be powered up by the gray or brown wire, as applicable, and immediately turn on to soft start the corresponding solenoid circuit. That is a built-in feature of these controllers, and is the only reason they can be used with the shuttle shifter with no other circuitry and no alteration of the original wiring.

I did not get any instructions with the unit. I searched the box inside out and was surprised. I have an address on the East coast, but I suspect they don't package them. I will call them. All the info above is very good and I appreciate all your effort.

 

[fred saas]

Lockup is only recommended for light draft loads, PTO and roading.

I will not use the lockup and thanks Ted for your help. I did not receive instructions with the Hanlei's.

 

[eKretz]

Fred, hang tight and I'll take a picture of the section of the instructions that you need and post it here.

 

[eKretz]

Here you go Fred. The only ones you really need to worry about are 1,2 & 7 (and 8 only if you want to change what's on the display when running to show the coil amperage). The rest will be fine at default settings.