?? NAA Lift Arm Pivot Stud in axle housing spinning
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tmajor
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When I was putting the new radiator on, I noticed that the fan was a little closer to the bottom of the shroud, than I would like. Today I jacked up the engine and it looks like a new pivot bushing is in order. Has anybody figured out why a grease fitting wasn't installed on the pivot? It wouldn't seem to be a big project, after the bushing was installed.
At the same time, I checked the front spindles ... they seem to be toast! .... and they DO HAVE grease fittings!
At the same time, I checked the front spindles ... they seem to be toast! .... and they DO HAVE grease fittings!
zombie
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Wow. Sounds like one thing after another. Keep after it!
Soundguy
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Original thinking was a great fitting and no seal would = grinding compound with sand.
I think even a felt dust seal and grease would have been handy.
Later designs had greased pins
I think even a felt dust seal and grease would have been handy.
Later designs had greased pins
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tmajor
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Just an update:
I pulled the spindles out. Both were worn, as were the bushings. The center pivot bushing was, also worn. So I have spindles, spindle bushing kits and a center pivot bushing on order.
Yesterday, I dropped the tractor at the shop, where he is going to split the tractor and install the clutch/pressure plate. ... as well as, install the front bushings and spindles. That will save me making drifts, etc., to install the bushings.
Yesterday morning, I pulled the right wheel again, as I found a thick shim on my junk hub. The shim goes between the hub and brake drum, which brings the hub away from the brake anchor plate and all of that garbage. ?? The other side didn't have a shim in that position.
Now I'm waiting for a call on the actual size of the clutch I need to order and doing body work on the sheet metal.
I pulled the spindles out. Both were worn, as were the bushings. The center pivot bushing was, also worn. So I have spindles, spindle bushing kits and a center pivot bushing on order.
Yesterday, I dropped the tractor at the shop, where he is going to split the tractor and install the clutch/pressure plate. ... as well as, install the front bushings and spindles. That will save me making drifts, etc., to install the bushings.
Yesterday morning, I pulled the right wheel again, as I found a thick shim on my junk hub. The shim goes between the hub and brake drum, which brings the hub away from the brake anchor plate and all of that garbage. ?? The other side didn't have a shim in that position.
Now I'm waiting for a call on the actual size of the clutch I need to order and doing body work on the sheet metal.
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tmajor
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My Guy working on the clutch and pressure plate called me last night, after getting to the clutch/pressure plate. One of the previous owners, had installed flat washers (shims) between the pressure plate mounting ears and the fly wheel. We aren't sure why. The clutch and pressure plate looked good. The pressure plate was clean on the back of the mounting ears and had additional marks where the washer were. In any case, we'll put a new assembly on. If it hadn't been for the washers, the clutch probably would have worked fine.
We aren't sure why. The clutch and pressure plate looked good. The pressure plate was clean on the back of the mounting ears and had additional marks where the washer were. In any case, we'll put a new assembly on. If it hadn't been for the washers, the clutch probably would have worked fine.
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tmajor
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The clutch plate, inner disc was pushed out, from where it was supposed to be. My guess, maybe they put the clutch in backwards and as the pressure plate was being tightened, the fly wheel pushed the center section out. I'll get a picture of it, when I gather things up.
Talked to my guy tonight, and he felt , he could have it done in about 2 hours, when he gets the time .... tomorrow. He said the center front pivot pin was a "bear" to get out ... he had to heat the motor mount, where the pin goes though. I'm glad, I was able to get him to take care of that issue!
Talked to my guy tonight, and he felt , he could have it done in about 2 hours, when he gets the time .... tomorrow. He said the center front pivot pin was a "bear" to get out ... he had to heat the motor mount, where the pin goes though. I'm glad, I was able to get him to take care of that issue!
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tmajor
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Here's a pic of the "warped" side of the clutch disc.
My tractor mechanic called and said "the new spindles wouldn't work and they must be the wrong part number, as the wheel toed in about 3 inches". So he put the old ones back in for me to bring the tractor home. He did change the clutch/pressure plate, the bushings in the front spindles and the center pivot bushing, which I was totally thankful for!
I pulled the left spindle, when I got home, so I could compare old to new, to see the difference and try to figure out what I needed. For the life of me, I couldn't see or measure any notable difference ... maybe, an 1/8" difference in the key-way radial placement!
Then I went to tractor and it was obvious that the new spindle created a tow-in, when dropping the steering arm in place. I plumbed down to the floor, from the end/center of the spindle stub and there was about a 3/4" difference, new to old.
This spindle/stub difference, created, like a 3" difference to the wheel alignment. A 5/8" adjustment to the tie rod corrected the problem. ... and only one side/spindle seemed to be an issue. I guess, that's why they made the tie-rods adjustable!
When looking at the situation, it's very hard to imagine, that a 1/8" radial difference in the key-way placement, would cause an "amplified" difference of 3" in the wheel alignment! :shocked:
My tractor mechanic called and said "the new spindles wouldn't work and they must be the wrong part number, as the wheel toed in about 3 inches". So he put the old ones back in for me to bring the tractor home. He did change the clutch/pressure plate, the bushings in the front spindles and the center pivot bushing, which I was totally thankful for!
I pulled the left spindle, when I got home, so I could compare old to new, to see the difference and try to figure out what I needed. For the life of me, I couldn't see or measure any notable difference ... maybe, an 1/8" difference in the key-way radial placement!
Then I went to tractor and it was obvious that the new spindle created a tow-in, when dropping the steering arm in place. I plumbed down to the floor, from the end/center of the spindle stub and there was about a 3/4" difference, new to old.
This spindle/stub difference, created, like a 3" difference to the wheel alignment. A 5/8" adjustment to the tie rod corrected the problem. ... and only one side/spindle seemed to be an issue. I guess, that's why they made the tie-rods adjustable!
When looking at the situation, it's very hard to imagine, that a 1/8" radial difference in the key-way placement, would cause an "amplified" difference of 3" in the wheel alignment! :shocked:
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Soundguy
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I'd get a new mechanic!
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tmajor
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Tractor mechanics around here, are hard to find.
He doesn't work on many Fords. More the bigger John Deere and Farmalls. ... where the bad parts can fill a wash tub.
It's hard to imagine that a little difference in the key-way, would throw the wheel so far. ... unless, you think about it! It's all about the distance from the pivot center.
He doesn't work on many Fords. More the bigger John Deere and Farmalls. ... where the bad parts can fill a wash tub.
It's hard to imagine that a little difference in the key-way, would throw the wheel so far. ... unless, you think about it!
It's all about the distance from the pivot center.