?? NAA Lift Arm Pivot Stud in axle housing spinning

[tmajor]

It was noticed, that the outer shell on muffler was loose, so I had ordered a new muffler. But, when I was cleaning the valve cover, after removing the muffler, it occurred to me, "that now would be the best time to replace the valve cover gasket". So, ordered that! Getting this tractor up to snuff, "is like drinking out of a spittoon, ... Once you start, you can't quit, until it's done!" :licking:

 

[sashooter]

Here's a pic of the "warped" side of the clutch disc.

View attachment 440431

My tractor mechanic called and said "the new spindles wouldn't work and they must be the wrong part number, as the wheel toed in about 3 inches". So he put the old ones back in for me to bring the tractor home. He did change the clutch/pressure plate, the bushings in the front spindles and the center pivot bushing, which I was totally thankful for!

I pulled the left spindle, when I got home, so I could compare old to new, to see the difference and try to figure out what I needed. For the life of me, I couldn't see or measure any notable difference ... maybe, an 1/8" difference in the key-way radial placement!

View attachment 440432

Then I went to tractor and it was obvious that the new spindle created a tow-in, when dropping the steering arm in place. I plumbed down to the floor, from the end/center of the spindle stub and there was about a 3/4" difference, new to old.

View attachment 440433 View attachment 440434

This spindle/stub difference, created, like a 3" difference to the wheel alignment. A 5/8" adjustment to the tie rod corrected the problem. ... and only one side/spindle seemed to be an issue. I guess, that's why they made the tie-rods adjustable!

When looking at the situation, it's very hard to imagine, that a 1/8" radial difference in the key-way placement, would cause an "amplified" difference of 3" in the wheel alignment! :shocked:

Were you able to get the correct toe in then? Did you have a way to measure it properly? Or did you just eyeball it? I think the measurements are about a 1/2 inch or so?

 

[tmajor]

I measured rib to rib on the tires last night and this morning, I measured between tire sidewalls. I set it at about 1/4" toe in.

 

[Soundguy]

That's why drag link arms have adjustment.. Can't help thing your mechanic should have realized that... Seems he is more of a parts changer than a mechanic...

1/4" toe is good, 1/2" will start too much wear from scuffing if in anything but soft dirt, could ridge yards and pastures too

 

[tmajor]

I can understand his thought process ... if you install a "correct" new part, you would NOT expect to need significant amounts of adjustment ... maybe a little tweak for alignment purposes. There again, the original spindle, may have been an incorrect part. I say that, because the right spindle fell right into place.

Plus, I was after him to pick it up and he had another tractor sitting outside waiting for some work, before going to a fair this weekend.

 

[Soundguy]

The draglinks have adjustment as do many parts, clutch, etc. On purpose.

Parts changers just expect to bolt a part on...

I surely wouldn't let tho guy do rear axles if he expects to do no adjusting..

 

[tmajor]

Clutches and such, and even axles and their bearings are "wear parts", meant to be adjusted as the wear warrants, that is not the case with drag link/tie rod ends. I don't think, I'd normally expect to adjust the tie rod 5/8", when I did a direct replacement. ... Let's move on.

 

[Soundguy]

Move on? Sure.. Have a great one with the rest of the tractor.

 

[tmajor]

Just an up-date .... I've been adding new parts, "hand over fist", it seems (whatever that means). New front wheel seals, new battery tray ....., which just arrived, as I was typing. Some little parts, such as steering wheel grommet, starter wire grommet, throttle grommet and the like. I've got one new rim coming and going to pick up a pair of rear tires on Sat. Hopefully, I'll be satisfied enough with the prep work on the red, to paint this week. The sheet metal has all been repaired and primed. I never intended to get into the project, this far, when I started. :mur:

 

[tmajor]

Well, I got some red sprayed, .... but ... ran out of paint! :thumbdown: I had only gotten 1 quart, ... mostly because, I had 1/2 quart left from the 1st paint job. ?? Maybe, it was the remainder of 2 quarts. You have to keep in mind, "every part on a tractor seems to have at least 4 sides to be painted"! The valve cover and exhaust manifold are painted with high temp 2000°, caliper paint, which has a flat finish.