need advice about how to cut 36" metal pipe

[LD1]

Also, what jack did you try using. A 12t ot 20t bottle jack is cheap adn I would think whould have no problem bending it back. If 20t of force wont bend it back, that means it took more than 20t to bend. What kind of logging equipment was used and how in the world did you bend it??

 

[CNC Dan]

. The end of one of the pipes was bent recently during some logging work. At the end of the pipe, the bend is severe enough so that only about 1/4th of the pipe is open. I uncovered the last foot or so of the pipe and tried using a hydraulic jack to see if I could open up the bent end but that didn't work.

get a second jack. the springingyness on the pipe is likly causing problems. use one jack to start, then the other to keep the bent part up as you colapse the first jack and add more blocking to gain more length.

 

[edlegault]

Cut with a cordless sawzall or cordless grinder with a cutting wheel.

 

[rbtjr]

Also, what jack did you try using. A 12t ot 20t bottle jack is cheap adn I would think whould have no problem bending it back. If 20t of force wont bend it back, that means it took more than 20t to bend. What kind of logging equipment was used and how in the world did you bend it??

I used a 12t bottle jack. The problem was not bending the pipe. I bent it some. The pipe is now bent down from the top in a sort of a shallow "V" shape. I had the jack on the left side of the "V". No weight was on the top of the pipe at that point. I had shoveled out the dirt and debris on top of the pipe to expose about the last 2' or so of the pipe. When I removed the jack, the pipe sprung back into its bent shape. As another poster says in a later post, I could use two jacks, or a prop of some kind. But I am thinking that it would be easier to just cut out the bent portion of the pipe, or some of it, in order to gain more water flow.

The logging equipment was really big skidders and, probably worse, the feller-buncher. They came too close to the edge of the pipe, repeatedly. The skidders are really big but the feller-buncher weighs more than the skidders. The feller-buncher has a counter-weight in its rear so that it can grab and hold 8 or 10 pretty big trees on its front end and still manuever to grab and cut other trees. It is a very impressive piece of equipment. I would guess that the feller-buncher weighs much more than something like a Cat 953 or 955 loader, maybe twice as much. And I have had really big dump trucks with 16 ton loads cross this bridge with no problem, but they didn't come close to the edge, so their load was buffered by the thicker dirt on top in the middle.

 

[rbtjr]

get a second jack. the springingyness on the pipe is likly causing problems. use one jack to start, then the other to keep the bent part up as you colapse the first jack and add more blocking to gain more length.

That was exactly the problem--the pipe springing back into its bent shape. The pipe sprang back into its bent shape when I removed the jack. I thought about using two jacks, along with some bracing system to keep the pipe open as I go. But my conclusion was that eventually I would either have to use several supports to keep the pipe open, which creates the possibility of obstruction, or else the pipe will spring back into its bent shape no matter what I do. I already have a problem keeping the upstream end of the pipes clear of debris that stops up the pipes. In addition to small debris, some pretty large limbs and logs wash downstream. I am thinking that if I were to use two or more jacks to open up the lower end, and then brace the pipe to keep it open, I would create an obstruction on the lower end, on the inside of the pipe, against which debris that made it through the upper end of the pipe would get stuck on the inside of the pipe. That is why I am considering cutting off the bent section of pipe on the lower end--to open up the pipe without having to use braces on the inside of the pipe that would create an obstruction.

 

[Rob-D]

Best solution is a portable plasma like a Miller 375 and a small generator (5kw). Not much beats plasma for cutting metals.

 

[rbtjr]

Best solution is a portable plasma like a Miller 375 and a small generator (5kw). Not much beats plasma for cutting metals.

Thanks. I just did a quick Internet search and it looks like that setup is expensive. Do you have any experience about renting one? I would definitely like to use something that gets the job done quickly.

 

[Buckgnarly]

Oxy acetylene all the way. No electric needed, simple, pretty quick, you can EASILY cut 1/4 with oxy acetylene. Any kit is going to do that, and in about 10 minutes you can learn. Heck, a torch set should be standard equipement for anyone with a tractor!

 

[Rob-D]

Thanks. I just did a quick Internet search and it looks like that setup is expensive. Do you have any experience about renting one? I would definitely like to use something that gets the job done quickly.

I agree with the guys who say OA if you can't swing the plasma. I have both, plasma beats OA hands down in fact I never even use the OA anymore. I MIG, plasma and TIG. I would call a rental place to see if you can rent one, maybe a welding supplier might put you in the right direction.

 

[radioman]

like others suggested - a battery operated sawzall will work. buy a pack of 5 blades or so and use cutting oil. have several batteries ready and charged. You should be able to cut with at least 1 or 2 blades and 3 batteries to cut a foot or two worth long in 1/4 inch thick metal. Be prepared to recharge all the batteries and try again.
My C3 sears sawzall can do this. If I were you - I'd use sawzall over torch due to galvanized coating on the pipe- its no fun feeling sick at night or next day when breathing the fumes even in well ventilated area.
If worse comes to worse, and you are set on renting something to get the job done in no time- I'd go rent the gas powered saw with a metal cutting blade on it. less fumes to breathe in.