Need advise on Gooseneck Utility Trailer

Mike1 · Jun 2, 2006

I'm planning on upgrading from my current bumper pull 18' trailer that is likely overloaded when hauling my tractor. I've got a Jinma 304 w/ frontloader, that I often have to haul with a 5ft bushhog. The whole package ways around 6,250 lbs. My tow vehicle is a 2004 Dodge 1-ton diesel. I'd like to get a reasonably priced 20' + flatbed gooseneck w/ dovetail ramps. Some advice needed - If I go with the 7k axles, what would be the most appropriate lenght - 20, 22, 24? I'll haul hay with the trailer, so the extra length is a plus, but not good if it allows me to overload the trailer.
Also - does anyone have any experience with one drop leg jack versus 2?
I'll have this trailer forever, but want to keep the price under 5k - any advice on brands?
Anyone have feedback on Kaufman trailers?

Mike1 · Jun 2, 2006

I'm planning on upgrading from my current bumper pull 18' trailer that is likely overloaded when hauling my tractor. I've got a Jinma 304 w/ frontloader, that I often have to haul with a 5ft bushhog. The whole package ways around 6,250 lbs. My tow vehicle is a 2004 Dodge 1-ton diesel. I'd like to get a reasonably priced 20' + flatbed gooseneck w/ dovetail ramps. Some advice needed - If I go with the 7k axles, what would be the most appropriate lenght - 20, 22, 24? I'll haul hay with the trailer, so the extra length is a plus, but not good if it allows me to overload the trailer.
Also - does anyone have any experience with one drop leg jack versus 2?
I'll have this trailer forever, but want to keep the price under 5k - any advice on brands?
Anyone have feedback on Kaufman trailers?

dubba · Jun 2, 2006

How long is your tractor with the bush-hog & fel?

I usually would get the longest trailer I could afford just because they are never long enough.

Trailer weight + tractor= approx 4500# extra capacity depending on the particular trailer??

I have a 36' aluminum horse trailer with a single leg & find it sufficient

dubba · Jun 2, 2006

How long is your tractor with the bush-hog & fel?

I usually would get the longest trailer I could afford just because they are never long enough.

Trailer weight + tractor= approx 4500# extra capacity depending on the particular trailer??

I have a 36' aluminum horse trailer with a single leg & find it sufficient

Mike1 · Jun 2, 2006

My tractor, fel, bushog combination is approximately 19 ft. long. I'm leaning towards getting as much length as I can purchase too - the extra length will be nice when I pick up hay.
On the jack issue, upgrading to two jacks is a 250.00 option - not sure what purpose it would serve - it would make dropping the trailer unloaded slower, but perhaps it would allow me to load the trailer without having it hitched to my truck safely?

Mike1 · Jun 2, 2006

My tractor, fel, bushog combination is approximately 19 ft. long. I'm leaning towards getting as much length as I can purchase too - the extra length will be nice when I pick up hay.
On the jack issue, upgrading to two jacks is a 250.00 option - not sure what purpose it would serve - it would make dropping the trailer unloaded slower, but perhaps it would allow me to load the trailer without having it hitched to my truck safely?

Farmwithjunk · Jun 2, 2006

I've got a 25'+5' Ridgeline gooseneck with a pair of 7000 lb axles. I run load range E tires that will allow a shade over 12,000 GVW (on the trailer only) Extra legnth is nice. Especially when you're jockeying a tractor forward and rearward to get the weight "just right" over the trailer axles. The 5' dovetail raises to level for hay hauling. Makes for a nice rig. Down side to a longer trailer? YEP! Try turning it around in tight quarters. (I pull it with a Dodge 2500 4WD, 4-door, long bed. Truck and trailer together are a tick over 55'.)

Since owning my first gooseneck, I wouldn't consider a bumper pull trailer ever again.

Farmwithjunk · Jun 2, 2006

I've got a 25'+5' Ridgeline gooseneck with a pair of 7000 lb axles. I run load range E tires that will allow a shade over 12,000 GVW (on the trailer only) Extra legnth is nice. Especially when you're jockeying a tractor forward and rearward to get the weight "just right" over the trailer axles. The 5' dovetail raises to level for hay hauling. Makes for a nice rig. Down side to a longer trailer? YEP! Try turning it around in tight quarters. (I pull it with a Dodge 2500 4WD, 4-door, long bed. Truck and trailer together are a tick over 55'.)

Since owning my first gooseneck, I wouldn't consider a bumper pull trailer ever again.

GeneD14 · Jun 2, 2006

( Down side to a longer trailer? YEP! Try turning it around in tight quarters. )

That is some good advise. My gooseneck was long enough that it was very difficult to get in and out of driveways. Before you decide on length try maneuvering one around with your truck.
Make sure you buy one with a good robust paint job ie: powdercoat, primer then paint, either cleaner steel by sand blasting or acid wash. I'm not sure what neck of the woods you are from but in the midwest a trailer with a cheapo paint job will be covered with rust in just a few years,

GeneD14 · Jun 2, 2006

( Down side to a longer trailer? YEP! Try turning it around in tight quarters. )

That is some good advise. My gooseneck was long enough that it was very difficult to get in and out of driveways. Before you decide on length try maneuvering one around with your truck.
Make sure you buy one with a good robust paint job ie: powdercoat, primer then paint, either cleaner steel by sand blasting or acid wash. I'm not sure what neck of the woods you are from but in the midwest a trailer with a cheapo paint job will be covered with rust in just a few years,

George2615 · Jun 2, 2006

Appalachian Trailer Sales in Manheim, Pa sells a 12000# gooseneck for $3700. It has a 20' deck plus a 4' dovetail with self storing ramps. Break away kit, stake pockets and rub rail, safety chains. They advertise in truck trader / equipment trader mag. I'm about to pick up a used one (2002) model I found locally.
I also have a 20' H&H tilt bed trailer I bought in Sept. 06. It has the single drop leg jack which is all I needed. dual drop leg may be more stable if your going to park it with a load on. They sell goosenecks also. Last year I called Kauffman and there was a 2 month wait time to build one to my specs so I went with the H&H at the time.
These are 2 companies I know of that have what you need for under 5K.

George2615 · Jun 2, 2006

Appalachian Trailer Sales in Manheim, Pa sells a 12000# gooseneck for $3700. It has a 20' deck plus a 4' dovetail with self storing ramps. Break away kit, stake pockets and rub rail, safety chains. They advertise in truck trader / equipment trader mag. I'm about to pick up a used one (2002) model I found locally.
I also have a 20' H&H tilt bed trailer I bought in Sept. 06. It has the single drop leg jack which is all I needed. dual drop leg may be more stable if your going to park it with a load on. They sell goosenecks also. Last year I called Kauffman and there was a 2 month wait time to build one to my specs so I went with the H&H at the time.
These are 2 companies I know of that have what you need for under 5K.

jdavis3099 · Jun 2, 2006

If this is a trailer you are going to keep for a long time, don't limit yourself. Shoot for about 22 feet plus 5 foot dovetail that you can raise to 27 feet total length; go with 8,000# Torflex axles and 17" tires, consider neverlube hubs and a Rumber (rubber no maintenance) deck and disk brakes. The trailer should be good for about a 12,000# load and will allow you to upgrade to a larger tractor or bring more attachments. For instance a tractor, rotary cutter, front end loader, box blade and 4 wheeler can all fit at one time. The cost of this type of trailer in Oklahoma at Haul-a-Round would be about $8,000.

Another option to consider is an 18 foot dump trailer with ramps and D-Rings. This combination can be handy if you are doing loader, demolition, constuction or tree work and you can still transport hay.

jdavis3099 · Jun 2, 2006

If this is a trailer you are going to keep for a long time, don't limit yourself. Shoot for about 22 feet plus 5 foot dovetail that you can raise to 27 feet total length; go with 8,000# Torflex axles and 17" tires, consider neverlube hubs and a Rumber (rubber no maintenance) deck and disk brakes. The trailer should be good for about a 12,000# load and will allow you to upgrade to a larger tractor or bring more attachments. For instance a tractor, rotary cutter, front end loader, box blade and 4 wheeler can all fit at one time. The cost of this type of trailer in Oklahoma at Haul-a-Round would be about $8,000.

Another option to consider is an 18 foot dump trailer with ramps and D-Rings. This combination can be handy if you are doing loader, demolition, constuction or tree work and you can still transport hay.

neverenough · Jun 5, 2006

My trailer 2 cents.

Your never going to buy the "perfect trailer". One time you use it, you will wish it was longer to fit more hay, the next time you'll wish it was shorter becouse there is extra room on the bed with your tractor loaded, and you barely made the last corner.

Don't kid yourself, you can't haul 40,000lbs with a 1 ton truck, on the other hand, you can't haul 20,000lbs "once in awhile" with a 14,000lb trailer.

The rule of thumb I use for buying a trailer, which works, FOR ME, is figure the minimum trailer length I need, then add 4 feet. If you are hauling a specific item, and that is all you will be hauling, then getting the needed length trailer works well too. I know a couple skid steer owners that wish they would have gotten a longer trailer to haul more attachments, yet some are happy with the standard "skid steer trailer". Don't over do it on GWR, you will needlessly beat up what you are hauling if you get too much trailer. Plan ahead and make sure all REALISTIC bases are covered for the future.

Some like torsion axles, some don't. I'm one that doesn't. I find for carrying varing weight loads, the spring axles are much better at giving the lighter loads a decent ride. Nobody's right or wrong on the subject, it's strictly what one prefer's.

2 jacks on a gooseneck, IMO, is the only way to go. With one jack, if your loaded up and need to get the truck unhooked, better start unloading. You may or may not ever have to do it, but it only takes one time that you need to.....

With steel prices the way they are, under 5k is borderline, planning to stay under 6k, for a long term investment, IMO, would be more realistic. Trailers hold their value much better than vehicles, you have much more to gain, and much less to lose by getting exactly what you want/need.

neverenough · Jun 5, 2006

My trailer 2 cents.

Your never going to buy the "perfect trailer". One time you use it, you will wish it was longer to fit more hay, the next time you'll wish it was shorter becouse there is extra room on the bed with your tractor loaded, and you barely made the last corner.

Don't kid yourself, you can't haul 40,000lbs with a 1 ton truck, on the other hand, you can't haul 20,000lbs "once in awhile" with a 14,000lb trailer.

The rule of thumb I use for buying a trailer, which works, FOR ME, is figure the minimum trailer length I need, then add 4 feet. If you are hauling a specific item, and that is all you will be hauling, then getting the needed length trailer works well too. I know a couple skid steer owners that wish they would have gotten a longer trailer to haul more attachments, yet some are happy with the standard "skid steer trailer". Don't over do it on GWR, you will needlessly beat up what you are hauling if you get too much trailer. Plan ahead and make sure all REALISTIC bases are covered for the future.

Some like torsion axles, some don't. I'm one that doesn't. I find for carrying varing weight loads, the spring axles are much better at giving the lighter loads a decent ride. Nobody's right or wrong on the subject, it's strictly what one prefer's.

2 jacks on a gooseneck, IMO, is the only way to go. With one jack, if your loaded up and need to get the truck unhooked, better start unloading. You may or may not ever have to do it, but it only takes one time that you need to.....

With steel prices the way they are, under 5k is borderline, planning to stay under 6k, for a long term investment, IMO, would be more realistic. Trailers hold their value much better than vehicles, you have much more to gain, and much less to lose by getting exactly what you want/need.

Piedmont3 · Jun 6, 2006

I don't have any advise on goose neck trailers... But If you are anywhere close to central Oklahoma, I might be interested in giving you a decent price for your 18' bumper pull trailer to help with the cost of the upgrade, PM me if you are interested.

Piedmont3 · Jun 6, 2006

I don't have any advise on goose neck trailers... But If you are anywhere close to central Oklahoma, I might be interested in giving you a decent price for your 18' bumper pull trailer to help with the cost of the upgrade, PM me if you are interested.