Need guidance on why my fuel gauge got scorched
- Thread starter MA1920
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Scrambler82
Veteran Member
That sounds like good news; hopefully they will test the Gauge before sending it to you, maybe something to ask them !
smilinjak
Silver Member
Ask for assurance that the gauge functions, not a guarantee but you should know you aren’t paying good money for something that doesn’t work.
You may get this debacle behind you before Christmas after all. ��
Smilinjak
Here's an update: after putting in the new fuel gauge and starting the tractor, it appeared to work properly. I removed the instrument cluster to install the "new old" temp gauge. I noticed that the fuel gauge had an odor to it. Not quite a burnt smell, but something. (I know that makes no sense, my writing skills are about equal to my electrical diagnosing skills).
We tested the new temp gauge by shorting the temp sensor wire and it moved, something the original gauge didn't do. We started the engine long enough to check the voltage at the back of the fuel gauge and it was 14.1 which is slightly lower than what the alternator output is. Does that seem too high? I'm reluctant to call it good because of the odor that the new fuel gauge had.
We tested the new temp gauge by shorting the temp sensor wire and it moved, something the original gauge didn't do. We started the engine long enough to check the voltage at the back of the fuel gauge and it was 14.1 which is slightly lower than what the alternator output is. Does that seem too high? I'm reluctant to call it good because of the odor that the new fuel gauge had.
Here's an update: after putting in the new fuel gauge and starting the tractor, it appeared to work properly. I removed the instrument cluster to install the "new old" temp gauge. I noticed that the fuel gauge had an odor to it. Not quite a burnt smell, but something. (I know that makes no sense, my writing skills are about equal to my electrical diagnosing skills).
We tested the new temp gauge by shorting the temp sensor wire and it moved, something the original gauge didn't do. We started the engine long enough to check the voltage at the back of the fuel gauge and it was 14.1 which is slightly lower than what the alternator output is. Does that seem too high? I'm reluctant to call it good because of the odor that the new fuel gauge had.
We tested the new temp gauge by shorting the temp sensor wire and it moved, something the original gauge didn't do. We started the engine long enough to check the voltage at the back of the fuel gauge and it was 14.1 which is slightly lower than what the alternator output is. Does that seem too high? I'm reluctant to call it good because of the odor that the new fuel gauge had.
Yesterday, before starting the tractor, I turned the key to the run position and the fuel gauge went to full. The fuel sender was disconnected. When we pulled the fuel sender and checked the movement of the float, "empty" was over 100ohms and "full" was about 4ohms.
If the fuel sender was disconnected when the key was in the run position, wouldn't it read empty? I think it would because the gauge would sense infinite resistance, and according to my out of tank test, the higher the resistance the lower the fuel reading.
If the fuel sender was disconnected when the key was in the run position, wouldn't it read empty? I think it would because the gauge would sense infinite resistance, and according to my out of tank test, the higher the resistance the lower the fuel reading.
RoyKing
Platinum Member
When sender was out of the tank plug it into the gauge, and ground the gauge and then swing the float. The fuel gauge is responding to the voltage drop across the sender not an open circuit.
Scrambler82
Veteran Member
To me the Full Reading is only 4 Ohms, while the Empty is 100 Ohms, so when the Gauge is disconnected it has a resistance reading closer to 4 than 100 so it would read full or close to it.
Do as RoyKing stated and see where that goes.
Here's where I stand:
fuel gauge works, I filled tank, gauge reads full
I tested the temp gauge this morning. I grounded the temp sensor lead and turned key to on position. This is where I need help from the electrical astute in the audience. With the fuel sender disconnected, the temp gauge begins to move, albeit slowly. Once it got the midpoint, I turned key off. While doing this test the fuel gauge also moved but faster than the temp gauge. (Maybe because the gauges are designed or calibrated differently?)
I then did the same test with the fuel sender connected, the fuel gauge went quickly to full, as expected. This time the temp gauge didn't budge. I looked at the wiring diagram and didn't see where the two circuits intersect each other. Any thoughts? Thank you.
fuel gauge works, I filled tank, gauge reads full
I tested the temp gauge this morning. I grounded the temp sensor lead and turned key to on position. This is where I need help from the electrical astute in the audience. With the fuel sender disconnected, the temp gauge begins to move, albeit slowly. Once it got the midpoint, I turned key off. While doing this test the fuel gauge also moved but faster than the temp gauge. (Maybe because the gauges are designed or calibrated differently?)
I then did the same test with the fuel sender connected, the fuel gauge went quickly to full, as expected. This time the temp gauge didn't budge. I looked at the wiring diagram and didn't see where the two circuits intersect each other. Any thoughts? Thank you.
smilinjak
Silver Member
I think you are testing too much with tunnel vision. If you think about it the temperature guage responds slowly as the temperature of the coolant increases, the fuel gauge responds quickly to the fuel level. The voltage to the fuel gauge sounds about right. It is not intended to be a voltage meter. The smell could be caused by the new insulation of the gauge internal wiring out gassing as it drys. Test less and drive more, life will be better for you.:2cents:
Smilinjak