Need input - gravel

[/pine]

just curious what was the grade of the gravel you had spread ?

usually even the less than sharpest drivers can spread a fairly consistant layer...the size, type and moisture content can have an effect but a 6" difference in the same stretch is lame...

 

[beenthere]

But.... the OP has to deal with what it is now....and that is a range from 2" to 8".

Sometimes the luck of the truck driver draw, and he/she knowing how fast (or slow) the load is emptying when one comes to the end of the 200' drive.

So gotta deal with the hand that's been dealt.

 

[zzvyb6]

Putting 2" of gravel on a bumpy driveway gives you a bumpy driveway 2" higher. An angled 8' landscape rake will do the best job (if it has the gauge wheels).

Other than that. an "A" framework made out of long 2x4's dragged behind the tractor does a good job of making the roadway flat. Set the entrance of the frame to be wide enough to capture the gravel and the exit about a foot narrower. Use some weight on it to keep it into the gravel. The idea is to gather it inward and discharge it at the end. The pro models have a spillway or 2 part way down the frame. Backing the loader in float mode is a good way, too (as mentioned).

 

[/pine]

But.... the OP has to deal with what it is now....and that is a range from 2" to 8".

that's obvious...I was just asking a question and making an observation...that's all....

...even the worst driver should be able to maintain a steady speed that *should* dispense the aggregate at an even rate....unless there were extenuating circumstances with the condition of the gravel or the existing condition of the road prior...maybe it was the drivers first loads ?

 

[crazyal]

Even though I have a dozer I would say use a short length of chain link fence with a couple of 2x4s width wise. If it's loose gravel just dragging that back and forth works wonders. You can even add a few cement bricks for weight.

 

[jdmar]

All great points. The only comment I have is to try and save a bucket or two of gravel if you can. You can then fill in the spot that will drop after the rains and cars drive on it! This spot travels around the world putting low points in unsuspecting driveways. The best way to prevent from catching this nasty infection is to have an extra load of gravel on hand...then you are assured of not having to use the extra gravel.
Peter

 

[teg]

Anytime I have gravel delivered and spread on the "driveway", I also get one extra load to be dropped as a pile, just to have around. With over a mile drive, it doesn't last too long.

 

[PILOON]

A good trucker csn do a great job of spreading with the chain method.
However, even the best driver will do a terrible job if there was heavy rains prior to his loading.
Water makes the gravel sticky and clumpy and often a sledge is needed to get the laast bit out of the box.
Also you generally pay by the tonnage, and trucks are limited to max load limits.
Why pay cartage for water?
Always buy gravel on a nice hot dry day! More so for sand.

 

[alchemysa]

Just dump it in evenly spaced piles with the FEL than roughly level it by pushing or backdragging. Then use a drag frame to smooth and spread everything. It doesn't have to be heavy or huge. Mine is just a metal frame about 6 feet wide x 2 foot with a couple extra flat bars running from side to side. Weighs only about 30 kg. (An old metal bed frame would be ideal as a start). If you need extra weight throw on some bricks or timber. Then you just drive up and down the roadway. If possible don't drive in straight lines, drive in a loops and zig-zag patterns. In my experience that helps to get a more level finish.

 

[Ken45101]

I doubt that you really need it a consistent 2". What you probably want is a smooth, even surface.

Patience and practice are your most important tools.

Best tools are a box blade or a landscape rake with wheels. However, an experienced operator can do a great job with just a FEL bucket, especially over a short distance like 200'.

If you have really rough areas (piles and dips), backdrag with the front of the bucket tipped up a bit (or you could do it with the front tipped down a bit, 45 degrees max, experiment to see what works best for you). Keep the tractor in float mode. You definitely do not want to back drag with the bucket straight down (90 degrees) and not in float mode, that's a good way to bend the loader hydraulic rods.

Once you get things reasonably distributed, then use the bucket in float and with it flat on the driveway. That will help even things out for the final finish. It will take time and practice.

It's amazing how an experienced operator can smooth things out.

Ken