Need welder advice...

Tractor Seabee · Oct 26, 2011

This has been an interesting conversation. Wish I had the money to have what I want instead of what I can get by with.

I assume you are putting the welder inside/not outside. If you wire direct w/o receptacle & plug and the machine is not in close/direct sight of the panel you need to put a wall mount disconnect switch close to machine (code, and your safety) Its ampacity needs to match the circuit or greater to the next size. They come in 30, 60 then 100A size, called a safety switch. They make receptacles larger than 60A (range plug) but they get real spendy, better to go the direct route w/ the switch. If you go larger than 60A you might as well pipe in conduit (use plastic) and buy THHN wire, black red and green (ground) unless the welder has a 120v controller then you will need a white neutral wire also. Anything metal has to be bonded to the green gorund. The rubber covered (SO) cable larger than #6 really starts to climb the dollar ladder. Wire from the switch to the machine in flex conduit. This is the simple explanation w/ a lot left out to comply w/code.

Ask specific questions and I will try specific answers.

Ron

dntfxr · Oct 26, 2011

Thanks Seabee I'll definitely ask more particulars about wiring the circuit when I get my shop built. I went to trade school for residential electricity out of high school but I'm not up on codes at all. I was thinking a switch would be required inline between the panel and machine. Its got a 5' section of cable that came with it, so i'll probably get more of that unless code requires conduit/thhn. The machine will be indoors and stationary ( maybe on a cart to scoot it around on a short cord) at all times, set up next to the bay door. I'm pretty sure the 50' leads will be enough.

In the meantime I'd like to set it up in my garage and the circuit I have is the old range circuit, it might actually be 50amp, I need to check. We replaced the electric range with a gas one when we remodeled. I have read of some others using these machines on 50amp circuit, at the lower amperages but 40 is probably pushing it.

Tractor Seabee · Oct 26, 2011

dntfxr said:
Thanks Seabee I'll definitely ask more particulars about wiring the circuit when I get my shop built. I went to trade school for residential electricity out of high school but I'm not up on codes at all. I was thinking a switch would be required inline between the panel and machine. Its got a 5' section of cable that came with it, so i'll probably get more of that unless code requires conduit/thhn. The machine will be indoors and stationary ( maybe on a cart to scoot it around on a short cord) at all times, set up next to the bay door. I'm pretty sure the 50' leads will be enough.

In the meantime I'd like to set it up in my garage and the circuit I have is the old range circuit, it might actually be 50amp, I need to check. We replaced the electric range with a gas one when we remodeled. I have read of some others using these machines on 50amp circuit, at the lower amperages but 40 is probably pushing it.

You can set the welder under the switch and run the cord into the bottom of the switch, just use a special fitting with a rubber grommet in it and a strain connectior to match the rubber covered cord. it is probably not the same size wire as the circuit will require as it is short and UL approved to use w/a safety switch. Put a longer one on; then you will need to match circuit wire size. Buy more welding lead if you have to stretch out. You can usually find used stuff. I bought 100' of #1 lead at the metal recyclers for scrap price plus their margin. 30% the price of new. You will need to get the fittings at an electrical supply house as the retail stores do not have. Try Grainger on line if you are out in the sticks.

Ron

dntfxr · Oct 28, 2011

Well bummer, today I found out that the HF transformer was fried. The miller dealer said it is 100$ for the parts. Anyone have an idea how hard this is to replace?

yomax4 · Oct 28, 2011

dntfxr said:
Well bummer, today I found out that the HF transformer was fried. The miller dealer said it is 100$ for the parts. Anyone have an idea how hard this is to replace?

Easy...Big Transformer. Big Wires. Keep track of the Ground. Done Deal. May Require a little Soldering depending on current production.

deereman75 · Oct 28, 2011

Does the rest of it work well? Have you tried stick welding with it yet?

dntfxr · Oct 28, 2011

Yeah it stick welds great. But I got the miller dealer to check out the HF to get ready to tig and they found the problem. I think they want 150 just to install the new part

I may just install it myself if it's not too bad of a job

deereman75 · Oct 28, 2011

probably a stupid question, but can you use the hf when stick welding?

dntfxr · Oct 29, 2011

Hmm, I'm not sure. I just checked it out at the Miller dealer when I bought the new leads and then asked them about getting it ready for Tig. I let them go through it without me even trying the HF first. I didn't realize you could use it with stick. But the regular stick welds really good. Great actually. I wonder what would have cause the HF to go out?

Shield Arc · Oct 29, 2011

dntfxr said:
I wonder what would have cause the HF to go out?

Could be as simple as age. Or capacitors, (blue arrows). I know I got tired of changing them on my old Gold Star, thats one reason I bought the Dynasty 300.

dntfxr · Oct 28, 2015

Well I almost started a new thread but since it's on the same subject as before I found my old one and figured I'd resurrect this one lol! Only 5 years later! Well since my welder purchase- the old Dialarc HF, I've gotten a few projects done including building our house and my shop and finally have a little more time to do things. I've used my Dialarc for numerous jobs and it's a great stick welder for what I do. I also was given a nice old rod oven (barrel shaped) and a lifetime supply of 7018, and 6010 rods. Probably need to add a few 6011s to the collection but not a big need at the moment. Long story short I am finally ready to try my hand at TIG welding. I've been on the lookout for a used pedal for it, RF-23a seems that it's different tech than newer type pedals and haven't found any aftermarket ones. There is one on eBay at the moment that looks like it's a Lincoln k870 that's modified to work perhaps? It's described as a rf23a and has a plug that's been taped on, so for 130$ I think maybe it would be worth it if it works.
What else will I need to use my welder for TIG? I think it has solenoids and valves for gas control but not sure if they would work or if I'd do better with a different set-up for that. Also is it possible to use the smaller torches on it? It was mentioned earlier in this thread (years back) that a amp control on the torch could work also. Would a foot pedal be better? Finally what connectors and adapters would be needed? I know this is all old technology and depending on investment I guess it may not be worth it but already having AC and HF seems like a start anyway. As I understand it may be not ideal for thinner stuff, what would be the limits on smaller gauge aluminum? Thanks for any help you guys can give!

dntfxr · Oct 28, 2015

Sorry, every post seems to double tap lately..

dntfxr · Oct 28, 2015

Actually the eBay listing had the wrong pics on the listing, so it's actually 2 rf23a pedal setups for 135$, not too bad a deal I guess.

dntfxr · Oct 28, 2015

Ok so I got the pedal on the way, has been tested and looks to be in great shape. Also a friend gave me this torch awhile back, wp-26 I think it says. Is this ok to start with or even compatible with the Dialarc?

Jorville · Oct 30, 2015

dntfxr said:
Ok so I got the pedal on the way, has been tested and looks to be in great shape. Also a friend gave me this torch awhile back, wp-26 I think it says. Is this ok to start with or even compatible with the Dialarc?View attachment 445512 View attachment 445513 View attachment 445514

I am looking for a RFC23A foot pedal also. I passed on the one you bought when it was $120.00. The ad read untested and the wires were beat up leaving the pedal. He had been trying to sell that pedal for some time. If it needs parts you can get them from Miller, Good luck though

dntfxr · Oct 30, 2015

The one I got looks to be in decent shape wires included, it was from a Miller service center and has been tested. Not sure, but hopefully it's not a dud...
In the meantime I've been looking at new machines. I left some drool on a Miller Dynasty 280 DX... Lol
Probably a bit more welder than I need! The new Lincoln 200 Square wave looks like a lot of welder for the money though. At least on paper it does, the local shops didn't have any in stock. Has anyone heard anything good or bad about them yet?

dntfxr · Oct 31, 2015

Well whadya know my pedal came in today! I checked the tracking number and yup it was sitting out in the yard. That was really quick shipping. It looks to be all there, a little paint worn off but the plugs look right and the pedal moves really smoothly. A bit too late for me to go try it out though I'm tempted lol. Got an early morning hunt anyway.
Here's a couple pics,

dntfxr · Oct 31, 2015

Can anyone recommend which tungsten electrode type I should try? I've read somewhere they liked the 100% tungsten but before I order a kit I figured you all may have some suggestions. Are there any online suppliers you all recommend, or should I bite the bullet and pay my local store a little extra. Thanks for any help or advice.

Sodo · Oct 31, 2015

I don't know what happens if you try a green tungsten (for Aluminum) on steel, but I think the differences between ceriated and lanthanated are,,,,,, "subtle".

Nobody's helping here because A TIG is not a welder. A welder is an old dusty unit that burns holes in stuff then goes back in the corner to get older and dustier. Members like to help with BOTH types, but you are confusing them.

Just IMHO of course,,,,,, dntfxr you should start a new thread, with a specific title of what you are trying to do. Maybe it's "Can I add a TIG torch to my HorrorFright MIG" (happy halloween!)

Shield Arc · Oct 31, 2015

When using an inverter welder I use 2% Ceriated tungsten, (orange) for all my Tig welding. Even aluminum.
Arc Zone generally has anything you'll need far as Tig welding. But I use Google Shopping, and Bing to find the best price on anything I buy.
https://www.arc-zone.com/
Google Shopping
https://www.bing.com/