New 5055E

/ New 5055E #41  
I've already been told by someone it was normal to have to pump them once. I called BS and according to the manual under trouble shooting, if they brakes are soft or go down to far, they need to be bled. How, I haven't a clue. So far everything with the dealer has been great. I'm going in the morning to check on the status of it.

Brett

Good to hear that your dealer is "on point"! I've never pumped the brakes on my 75M. Ever.. That would be a 'line in the sand' for me..

Best of luck, Brett.

AKfish
 
/ New 5055E #42  
I agree. Can't settle for brakes that need pumped. Especially in my World where I might be within a few inches of going off a ledge that I don't want to go down. Usually "pumping brakes" indicates air or shoes/pads that are worn out, which he wouldn't have. I hope his dealer stays with him and gets these issues all worked out.
 
/ New 5055E #43  
We may have pumped brakes back in the "old" days when cars/trucks had master cylinders and would be low on fluid or blown brake cylinders in one or more wheels.
For sure, Deere hasn't reverted back to those days 40-50 years ago. I say BS to anyone talking about "pumping" a brake pedal.
 
/ New 5055E #44  
The brakes do have more travel than on some earlier models due to the brake retractors. Deere changed this design to prevent brake drag and help economy. You should not, however have to pump the brakes. Brake pedals should go down 3-4 inches and have good holding power on first application. If brakes go to floor on first application, something is wrong. Air in system, improper adjustment or a leak in the system.
 
/ New 5055E #45  
Im guessing mine go down 3 to 4 inches on the first pump. The second pump maybe an inch at most. They seem to work fine on first pump. It just seems weird compared to any other tractor. I quickly got use to it.
 
/ New 5055E #46  
I have drove a 5400 and a 5310 a good bit. Both of them where for the most part trouble free. How can Deere take a good design and go backwards is beyond me. Usually they take a good design and perfect it with every model.
 
/ New 5055E #47  
The brakes do have more travel than on some earlier models due to the brake retractors. Deere changed this design to prevent brake drag and help economy. You should not, however have to pump the brakes. Brake pedals should go down 3-4 inches and have good holding power on first application. If brakes go to floor on first application, something is wrong. Air in system, improper adjustment or a leak in the system.

Could you tell me when this change took place? Did the old system use retractor springs?

Bill
 
/ New 5055E #48  
The brake disc pull off springs were added either on the 55 series or the 5000 series. Earlier models had no brake springs. JDparts is unavailable right at this moment or I would look up the correct model.
Update:
Addition of brake disk pull off springs began with 50 series tractor models built for European sales & 55 series for N American sales
 
Last edited:
/ New 5055E #49  
I don't wish to hijack the thread, I was just thinking about the need of some to pump their brakes.

Back when vehicles used drum brakes, as the shoes wore out, the distance the shoe needed to travel increased, as the retracting springs kept the shoes pulled in, away from the drum. Pumping the brakes became necessary. Adjust the shoes so they are closer to the drum, and things are back to normal.

Enter disk brakes, which had no retracting springs. as the pads wear they remain in contact with the disk, so there is no adjustment necessary.

Enter JD who installs retracting springs on disk brakes which have no provisions for adjustment, and your back to pumping brakes. As mentioned in a previous post, to correct a jamming problem in the brake system mechanics are removing the (unnecessary) retracting springs.

Am I missing something here?
 
/ New 5055E #50  
Very insightful post, Notforhire. You explained the timeline very well.

Am I missing something here?
The only thing missing in your timeline is the "why". From what I remember, JD had a problem on the 5 series where the disc brakes would stick and then heat up.

Sounds like this is one of those situations where the solution causes more issues than the original problem.
 
/ New 5055E #51  
Very insightful post, Notforhire. You explained the timeline very well.


The only thing missing in your timeline is the "why". From what I remember, JD had a problem on the 5 series where the disc brakes would stick and then heat up.

Sounds like this is one of those situations where the solution causes more issues than the original problem.

I wasn't aware that there was a problem until I read the comments from a number of 5000E owners. Now, I'm wondering if it's just the E series or if there's a similar issue with the M's as well. (Ignorance is bliss... Maybe.)

AKfish
 
/ New 5055E #52  
Going back to the list of problems you mentioned; I think if you posted that list to describe a used tractor you were considering purchasing, a lot of us would advise you to keep looking… I think I would ask the dealer to take it back.

As for the brakes, I have been using my 5075e to plow snow and scrape ice for the last 2-3 weeks; using the brake pedals to steer in reverse a lot of the time. It wasn't until I read your complaint that I considered whether or not my brakes are working properly. I think they are. I don't have to pump them to get them working the way I think they should. So don't settle for what you don't think is right.

I had several issues with my new tractor as well, mostly fluid related, In fact it was leaking coolant, engine oil and hydraulic fluid in different places. My dealer has been great about sending someone out to work on it here and ended-up taking it back to their shop to make things right. I don't know if these sorts of issues were supposed to be taken care of at the factory or if they're part of the dealer prep, but at least my dealer is standing behind the product so far. I hope yours does too. GOOD LUCK!
 
/ New 5055E
  • Thread Starter
#53  
Going back to the list of problems you mentioned; I think if you posted that list to describe a used tractor you were considering purchasing, a lot of us would advise you to keep looking… I think I would ask the dealer to take it back.

As for the brakes, I have been using my 5075e to plow snow and scrape ice for the last 2-3 weeks; using the brake pedals to steer in reverse a lot of the time. It wasn't until I read your complaint that I considered whether or not my brakes are working properly. I think they are. I don't have to pump them to get them working the way I think they should. So don't settle for what you don't think is right.

I had several issues with my new tractor as well, mostly fluid related, In fact it was leaking coolant, engine oil and hydraulic fluid in different places. My dealer has been great about sending someone out to work on it here and ended-up taking it back to their shop to make things right. I don't know if these sorts of issues were supposed to be taken care of at the factory or if they're part of the dealer prep, but at least my dealer is standing behind the product so far. I hope yours does too. GOOD LUCK!

I'm glad you got your issues handled too. This has been a mess. I was off for the last few days and was really missing the chance to do some tractoring. I like to buy new in hopes of preventing these issues but unfortunately it doesn't always work out. I'll let you know about the brakes. You'd know if they wernt right. When you push them, they go to the floor and on the next push they get firm and work better.

Brett
 
/ New 5055E #54  
Brett, sorry for your problems. I'd be distraught and wake up in the middle of the night thinking about it. I too normally buy new to avoid that. I recently bought a 30 year old tractor that doesn't have the seriousness of problems yours has. Hang in there.
 
/ New 5055E #55  
You mention the "warning light comes on and kicks the pto off".

Same thing happens to my 5055E, on occasion. It seemed to occur worse whenever I was rotary cutting through thick brush, but it even happens when using a finishing mower on grass. It occurred quite a bit between about 10-75 hours but I don't think I've had it happen again in the past 80 hours. I've had it occur once when riding down the road without the PTO, and after I shut down and restarted the tractor it went away..

I've read elsewhere that it's a somewhat common problem. There's so many things that can cause the light to come on it's hard to figure out whether it a particular problem or if its just a glitch... Would be nice it if would read out what the specific error is on the LCD screen.
 
/ New 5055E #56  
These (5055) are built in India correct?
 
/ New 5055E
  • Thread Starter
#57  
You mention the "warning light comes on and kicks the pto off".

Same thing happens to my 5055E, on occasion. It seemed to occur worse whenever I was rotary cutting through thick brush, but it even happens when using a finishing mower on grass. It occurred quite a bit between about 10-75 hours but I don't think I've had it happen again in the past 80 hours. I've had it occur once when riding down the road without the PTO, and after I shut down and restarted the tractor it went away..

I've read elsewhere that it's a somewhat common problem. There's so many things that can cause the light to come on it's hard to figure out whether it a particular problem or if its just a glitch... Would be nice it if would read out what the specific error is on the LCD screen.

I'm hoping they can tell me what the codes were that caused my issues. I'll let you know what they say.

These (5055) are built in India correct?

Yes.

Dealer is bringing out a 48 hp hst tractor tomorrow with grapple, 6' mower, and bb until mine is fixed. If it was a cab tractor I would've been set up right! I am however very excited to have the grapple for a few days.

Brett
 
/ New 5055E #58  
For what it's worth, the warning light on my 5075e cab will start to flash until I cycle the clutch all the way to the floor.. This is normal after shifting out of park.
 

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