New 5083e, 553, and MX10 delivered!

   / New 5083e, 553, and MX10 delivered! #31  
By the way I got my first couple hours of seat time in the new rig this afternoon. Spent it moving the shed to a better location. Still temporary but better. Managed to get one of the rear tires off the ground for a second. Yikes! I wasn't being careful and I was trying to lift and pull the corner of the shed sideways with the loader. It probably felt worse than it actually was but still. Live and learn.

You would be surprised how much better it works with 1000+ on the 3PH, you can still get yours rear tires off the ground, it will just happen less. We used our M8540 for a while before hanging something on the 3PH and it was interesting to say the least. While you are on it, you don't realize how high your tires are coming up.
 
   / New 5083e, 553, and MX10 delivered! #32  
No idea on the right door kit price, but I am not too sure it is a good idea. When I was looking at the 5083e I thought that would be way too tight to squeeze out the right side (if there was a door). There is just too little room between the steering wheel and joystick to make it worthwhile. Just my opinion.

Yeah you're probably right.

What I found on my M7040 CAB is that the squeeze room on the right side is WAY to narrow for my "heft", but I do open the door a lot. Makes it easy to access the key, the control stick for the FEL (or in my case forks), and to give instructions to helpers who happen to be on that side of the tractor. But for entrance into the CAB, no way - too tight for me!
 
   / New 5083e, 553, and MX10 delivered! #33  
Hello. I have a 2010 5083E. I installed a number of accessories and have found the right hand door to be very useful. It's true that there is not enough room to actually get in the cab from the right hand side due to the loader joystick. However, when hooking up implements, it is nice to not have to climb up into the cab from the left to get to the hydraulic/rockshaft levers. One can simply open the door, stand on the ground, and raise and lower the 3 point from there. It's a big timesaver and worth every penny. Plus, the door could be used as an escape hatch if one does happen to roll it onto the left side. I also think it looks better; the door kit comes with the right side step. It makes the tractor look more "square." In 2010 my tractor did not have an option for the buddy seat. After hearing that the cab on the E Series is the same as the M Series, I removed the left side upholstery and found that the mounting points were already there. It was a relatively simple task to install the seat. The other improvement I've made is the installation of the "true" air seat. After an 8+ hour day making hay, I could barely stand the back pain I got from the mechanical suspension seat. Deere has an option for a new air seat base that uses the existing seat for around $600. That base has limited adjustment. Thanks to TBN members' advice I bit the bullet and bought the full air seat with lumbar, swivel, etc. It was around $1200 but well worth it as my back pain has totally vanished. I sold the mechanical seat for $400 so it helped offset the cost some. I didn't like where/how the toolbox was mounted. Also since the toolbox was plastic, it seemed junky. I used the bracket from my metal JD toolbox and mounted it on the the front of the tractor where the weight bracket would normally be. Some might think it would be vulnerable there, but I have never smashed it into anything. If I did, a new toolbox would be cheaper than a buying a new grill or hood. I keep the plastic toolbox under the left side of the seat now. I put stick-on felt dots on the bottom and it doesn't slide around. I've also added the Power Reverser Modulation control, right and left outside mirrors, factory weather radio with CD, antenna, rear wiper (nice to have), block heater, horn, and 400lbs of rear wheel weights. My tires are not loaded, and it is noticeable from time to time as the rear end seems rather light. I didn't load the tires because my 2006 4320 had a small valve stem leak and the fluid leaking out was rusty. This will likely be my last tractor so I didn't want to replace the wheels in 20 years after they've rusted through. I keep my tiller on the back when using the loader for heavy work and it helps. The complaints I have about my tractor are that the PTO lever and rockshaft controls are hard to use. These issues have been addressed in the newer models. Overall I am happy with my tractor. I'm sure you will enjoy yours!
 
   / New 5083e, 553, and MX10 delivered!
  • Thread Starter
#34  
You would be surprised how much better it works with 1000+ on the 3PH, you can still get yours rear tires off the ground, it will just happen less. We used our M8540 for a while before hanging something on the 3PH and it was interesting to say the least. While you are on it, you don't realize how high your tires are coming up.

Yes, I didn't have anything on the 3PT, because I didn't think I needed it. I learned my lesson. I bet my box blade weighs about 400#, plus I could probably stack some blocks or something on it.
 
   / New 5083e, 553, and MX10 delivered!
  • Thread Starter
#35  
What I found on my M7040 CAB is that the squeeze room on the right side is WAY to narrow for my "heft", but I do open the door a lot. Makes it easy to access the key, the control stick for the FEL (or in my case forks), and to give instructions to helpers who happen to be on that side of the tractor. But for entrance into the CAB, no way - too tight for me!

I was thinking the same thing on the RH door. I don't think I would use it so much for entry/exit as I would just for access to controls from outside or talking to someone on that side of the tractor.
 
   / New 5083e, 553, and MX10 delivered!
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Hello. I have a 2010 5083E. I installed a number of accessories and have found the right hand door to be very useful. It's true that there is not enough room to actually get in the cab from the right hand side due to the loader joystick. However, when hooking up implements, it is nice to not have to climb up into the cab from the left to get to the hydraulic/rockshaft levers. One can simply open the door, stand on the ground, and raise and lower the 3 point from there. It's a big timesaver and worth every penny. Plus, the door could be used as an escape hatch if one does happen to roll it onto the left side. I also think it looks better; the door kit comes with the right side step. It makes the tractor look more "square." In 2010 my tractor did not have an option for the buddy seat. After hearing that the cab on the E Series is the same as the M Series, I removed the left side upholstery and found that the mounting points were already there. It was a relatively simple task to install the seat. The other improvement I've made is the installation of the "true" air seat. After an 8+ hour day making hay, I could barely stand the back pain I got from the mechanical suspension seat. Deere has an option for a new air seat base that uses the existing seat for around $600. That base has limited adjustment. Thanks to TBN members' advice I bit the bullet and bought the full air seat with lumbar, swivel, etc. It was around $1200 but well worth it as my back pain has totally vanished. I sold the mechanical seat for $400 so it helped offset the cost some. I didn't like where/how the toolbox was mounted. Also since the toolbox was plastic, it seemed junky. I used the bracket from my metal JD toolbox and mounted it on the the front of the tractor where the weight bracket would normally be. Some might think it would be vulnerable there, but I have never smashed it into anything. If I did, a new toolbox would be cheaper than a buying a new grill or hood. I keep the plastic toolbox under the left side of the seat now. I put stick-on felt dots on the bottom and it doesn't slide around. I've also added the Power Reverser Modulation control, right and left outside mirrors, factory weather radio with CD, antenna, rear wiper (nice to have), block heater, horn, and 400lbs of rear wheel weights. My tires are not loaded, and it is noticeable from time to time as the rear end seems rather light. I didn't load the tires because my 2006 4320 had a small valve stem leak and the fluid leaking out was rusty. This will likely be my last tractor so I didn't want to replace the wheels in 20 years after they've rusted through. I keep my tiller on the back when using the loader for heavy work and it helps. The complaints I have about my tractor are that the PTO lever and rockshaft controls are hard to use. These issues have been addressed in the newer models. Overall I am happy with my tractor. I'm sure you will enjoy yours!

So many tempting options, this could get out of control quickly! I think the first modification I'll do is to get the tires set even wider and add fender extensions. Can they change wheel in the field? I'd hate to trailer it in just to set the wheels wider. Then in order of importance I would say the next mods over time will be radio, rear view camera, RH door, side mirrors, T&T, 3rd function/grapple, and air ride seat. Do dealers do pretty good with just ordering parts and then I install myself? I'm pretty handy and I would hesitate to do any of the above installs myself as long as I had decent instructions. It also seems pretty easy to find part numbers on johndeere.com and then I can get them from third party or Ebay.
 
   / New 5083e, 553, and MX10 delivered!
  • Thread Starter
#37  
One other thing I forgot: I scuffed the cab hood pretty good while repositioning my shed. I know it's fiberglass so no rust, but do I need to repaint this with a rattle can to prevent UV damage to the fiberglass? I'm not so much worried about cosmetics, but I'd hate to shorten the live of the shell.
 
   / New 5083e, 553, and MX10 delivered! #38  
That is a very nice outfit you have there...
You can cover a lot of ground with that 10' cutter...
I use a 10' Howse behind out Allis...
 
   / New 5083e, 553, and MX10 delivered! #39  
I rarely use the right hand door on our M8540, but have and was glad it was there when needed. My sons often get in or out from the right hand side depending on where the tractor is parked.

Some dealers have a service truck big enough to change tire widths, some don't, you will need to check. Our tire service has a truck with an arm to handle tires that big, but we just use another tractor with a FEL, wider tires help stability. Ours is not set as wide as they will go, but are set wider than they were on the lot.

I'm sure your dealer will order anything you want to install and what you mention sounds pretty good. If you already have the rear remotes, you might check with MtnViewRanch for the TnT cylinders, he handle Fit Rite.
 
   / New 5083e, 553, and MX10 delivered!
  • Thread Starter
#40  
I spoke to my dealer at lunchtime today. He said there's about 70 gallons of wiper fluid in each back tire. He guessed that's about 800#'s per tire. That seemed high. I googled it and it looks like Wiper fluid weighs 8.35#'s per gallon? Can anyone confirm? That would make 1169#'s of ballast or 585#'s per tire.
 

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