New engine for my F-600 Dump Truck

[Wayne County Hose]

Good Morning Eddie,

Well, it's good to see you have the major issue out of the way. This makes me wish we lived closer, I swap labor for labor around here with people all the time. I've never heard of sanding the engine, I guess it just doesn't happen around here. I've run engines with no air filters for years and never had an issue. But it's not so warm and dry around here also. Now just get that axle fixed and you're in good shape. How are the bearings? Is the pre-load set correctly? There may be something on the axle tearing the seal too. Any of these will take a seal out everytime.
Good luck, Andy.

 

[EddieWalker]

Thanks Andy,

I also do a fair bit of horse trading and have done a few jobs for favors or just stuff I see lying around. Sometimes it's better then cash!!!!!

Sanding an engine was a new one on me too. I just never put any thought into it and the damage dust will do to an engine over a period of time. Now that it's been explained to me, it makes perfect sense. The dust gets into the oil and becomes a mild abrasive. The weekest, or softest metal in the engine are the oil control rings. Very thin and easily worn down, which is exactly what happened.

My experiene with vehicles has been to drive them on the road 90 percent of the time. So those few times I'm off road, it's either been too little to be significant, or the dust wasn't so bad to cause any major damage. I have had some pretty dirty air cleaners, but again, I never had the holes rusted through the top of the air cleaner like this before either.

That is probably what caused all my problems. If I had paid closer attention to that, I wouldn't have had to deal with this. Just one of those things that I didn't know enough about to even consider it an issue.

Live and learn.
Eddie

 

[john_bud]

You know Eddie, your posts helped convince me that I am better off paying for dozer and dump truck work! I have enough wrench time on other things....

jb

 

[Egon]

On the leaking wheel bearing seal failure maybe try replacing the bearing also. That may be the reason the seal is failing.

With a full floating axle its not very difficult. If'n I can recall correctly I did do it once back in the olden days!

 

[schmism]

On the leaking wheel bearing seal failure maybe try replacing the bearing also. That may be the reason the seal is failing.

With a full floating axle its not very difficult. If'n I can recall correctly I did do it once back in the olden days!

depends on were the oil seal is.

some axles have inboard oil seals and dry tubes (just keeping the diff in oil) and the outer wheel bearing is sealed.

other axles have an outboard oil seal and wet tubes.

based on age of the axles, the seals will "grind" a grove in the axle over a long time so even a new seal (because it sits in the same place) will also leek.

 

[ScottAR]

If the seal wear surface is worn, sometimes a repair or "speedy sleeve" is available that fits over the damaged area and a new seal can be installed without premature failure.

 

[Egon]

forgot to add Eddie, If your differential is a positrac??? type there may be spacers that can fall out when you pull the axle.

Had that happen on a car once. It kinda irritated me as the I'd told the fellows doing the repair about it.

 

[Renze]

..... I've never heard of sanding the engine, I guess it just doesn't happen around here. I've run engines with no air filters for years and never had an issue.

The Dutch troops in Afghanistan are using Werklust wheel loaders (= my new job since last week )
They had some problems with sanding engines in the Afghan desert: The cause was that the air cleaners collected so much dust that they couldnt wait to clean the filter by the maintenance crew during scheduled maintenance, according to the book, but it showed necessary for the operators in the field to clean them each day. The operators mostly reinstalled them incorrectly so the engines sucked sand. The wheel loaders operating in Afghanistan were retrofitted with a fool proof, quick change air filter which is easier to be cleaned by the operator in the field.

In Iraq, the British Challenger tanks had the same problems: these were fitted with a rubber dust skirt along the tracks, to keep the dust down, out of the air cleaner area.

The problem seems to occur only with very fine desert sand.

 

[EddieWalker]

After trying just about every location possible for the air cleaner, I chose teh space behind the headlight, beside the radiator and where part of the inner fenderwell is located. I cut out part of the fenderwell so that I would have room. The frame already has some holes in it that I can bolt to, so that seems like the perfect location.

I cut apiece of angle iron, notches and drilled it for the holes. Then I welded on another smaller piece of angle iron for a support and another attachement at the top of the filter. I will have three points to attach the filter housing to my bracket. The bracket has two bolts that will hold it to the frame. I'd like to make it stronger, but ran out of ideas where to go with it, so I'm going to give it a try and see what happens.

The canister is going in upside down. I will be able to removed the lid, which will allow the filter and dust that settles in around the outside of the filter to fall downwards and away from the path to the carburator. This filter is easily five times larger then my factory one, so it should work REALLY well to pre-filter the air before it gets to the factor filter, which I'm keeping.

The ductwork is from Lowes and for AC lines. I screwed on a square vent end with a six inch 90 to the end of the filter canister. I also used a full tube of duct silicone type caulking sealer to fill in the air gaps around the two pieces. Then I smoothed it all out with my fingers to get the look that you see in the picture. I added a 6inch to 4inch reducer with screws to the end so that I can fit on a standare air line to my factory air filter. After the caulking type stuff dries, I'm going to wrap all of it with HVAC foil tape. I think it's better then regular duct tape, but if it starts to peel off, I'll try something different.

It rained over 3 inches today with more expected. The mud is absolute and it will be a couple of day until I can do anything, so I'm just letting the caulking type stuff dry. When I mount it, I'll take a few pictures and post them here.

Thank you,
Eddie

 

[Willis Fecon Bushhogging]

It took me awhile, but I finally got it back together a few weeks ago, but today was the first time I was able to run it. Rain, mud and other projects have all been getting in the way of moving some dirt!!!

The oil rings were fried. They were wornd down smooth with the sides of the pistons. Nothing at all sticking out past the width of the pistons. So mystery solved, I sanded the engine. I showed them to the guy at the machine shop and also the bearings. He said a few of the bearings were a little worn and I should replace them to be safe. Otherwise, the block was fine. I also replaced the compression rings.

On my first load, I noticed that it was smoking real bad from under the hood. The valve cover gasket was leaking oil onto the exhaust manifold. I took it off and saw that the gasket was broken. I had a brand new tube of gasket sealant, so I just put it on real thick. Then when I went to put the air cleaner back on, the threaded part that goes into the carburator broke off about halfway in. I taped up the carb to keep it clean, then drilled a hole into the broken part and pulled it out with an easy out. One load of dirt moved and it was already noon.

We moved a dozen more loads of dirt when the smoke returned. I figured it was the same problem, so my dad volunteered to go to town and get a new gasket. I pulled off the cover and found that it had broke in a new place. I might be a little slow, but two breaks on a valve cover gasket just seems a little odd.

With the new gasket on, we went back to moving dirt. I loaded it with the backhoe and he drove the dump truck. There was one time when it wouldn't start, but after letting it run for awhile, it didn't happen again. Right after that starting problem, my dad said that it felt like there was less power too, but that went away. I did notice that the fuel preasure valve was set at 2 pounds, so I raised it to 4 1/2 half pounds. That might have been the problem, but I don't know how it got to that level and why the power issue wasn't from the start.

The axle is leaking oil again too. It leaked when I bought it, but the new seal didn't hold. Another seal failed, and then the third. This is seal number four, and all four seals are from different stores. Obviously it's either a bad axle or a lousy mechanic. Probably the mechanic.

I received a new air filter in the mail from a friend who I'll just call the Air Filter Fairy. It's a full sized monstrosity that I just finally figured out where to put it. With all the rain we've had, dust isn't a big concern right now, especialy with all the effort that I put into sealing up the factory air cleaner. My plan is to mount it behind the grill, upside down so that when I take the lid off, the dust that is outside the air filter will fall to the ground. There is a massive hole on the ousdie of the metal container to let the air in. It's on the side, so I either have to have it facing down to let the dust out, or do it this way. I bought some ducting that will make my turns, so now I need to weld up a bracket to mount it.

I'll post pics of it when I get done.

Thank you to everyone for all your help and advice,
Eddie

Eddie Im sure you know how to put the seal in, but on one of my trucks, it took 3 seals before it stopped. It took about 100 miles before the first two started leaking, this is not brain surgery and I still dont know what I did wrong or right. I have installed many seals (inner) and never had a problem. One question, did you install a wear ring on the boss? If they have a little groove in the boss, it will leak and you will need a wear ring. Are you sure, you are installing the correct seal, a friend of mine installed 6 seals and they all leaked, the parts dept gave him the wrong seals. I would take the new seal and try it on the boss, before installing it in the hub, make sure it fits snug. If it fits tight, check for the groove in the boss, if you cant find the part number for the wear ring, let me know the seal number and the last 8 digits of the vin # and I will check it out for you. Im guessing, you are talking about the inner hub seal.
I havent read all your replies, but what kind of engine is in the truck? Ill agree, its not common for a new gasket to break, but it broke twice HUMMM
Good Luck