New engine for my F-600 Dump Truck

[Egon]

Darned Eddie, here I thought you were on the way again.

Using an old quote " Your a better man than me Gunga Din". You definitely have much more perseverance than I.

 

[AlanB]

Sounds like one of those times where I have to duck my head, cuss a little and move forward again.

I hate it when stuff like that goes on, unfortunately it is part of the deal with running this older equipment.

You will whip it in the end though, hope it goes smooth for you.

 

[RobJ]

How much oil did you put into that engine ? It should only have around a 5 or 6 quart sump . Is the dipstick stock length ? I would find out how much oil it is supposed to have and mark the dipstick accordingly or get one that is the correct length . If the engine has to much oil in it , it will cause your symptoms as the crankshaft is swimming in oil and throwing it onto the cylinder walls . No oil ring ever made could control that amount of oil . If you want to test this drain the oil and only put 5 or 6 quarts back in and work the truck , if it clears up you have found your problem .

this can happen but once the oil gets down to a normal lever it will stop eating it. It seems this engine ate most of it's 9 qt capacity.

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Eddie,

You just had the heads redone. How about finding a good short block? Or, just getting the short block rebuilt?

 

[slowzuki]

Something doesn't add up to me. I've run some things with no oil rings left on them and valve guide seals worn out and they don't eat oil that fast, and it took them a long time to get that way. Blue smoke pouring out the back of them for a few hundred hours, topping up the oil every so often.

 

[Renze]

After I finish beating my skull against the wall, I'll start pulling the engine.

Eddie, i know how this s*cks to keep on doing the same job over and over.... Maybe try this idea:

dont know if your tractor is big enough to handle a dumptrailer, but in Holland you see a lot of dump trailers that are made of stripped dumptrucks: engine, cab and front axle are stripped off, remaining chassis beams are bent into a V tongue and a tow eye and jack stand are welded to it...

Dont know if thats an option for you, but it would be cheap and quick... When pulling it by the same tractor or pickup truck you use for other work, you've eliminated the service costs of one entire driveline...

 

[Eagleview]

I'm sorry but theres no way on this earth that a dusted engine will just start pouring out smoke and drinking oil like it is . It would be getting worse and worse over many hundreds of hours . Remember it has suddenly started doing this . And lets not forget that it has got good compression , if it were dusted you would have lousy compression . The dust comming in with the airstream will kill the rings from the top down and not get past them without hurting them and then get into the oil to abraid the oil rings from the bottom up . The engine dos'nt even have bad blowby . Are you certain it has the 9 quart truck sump on it ? That engine may not be out of a truck at all , it could have been swapped out with a car engine before you bought it . If that is so then the extra oil is being flung everywhere and also would have saturated the glass pack muffler . If your planning on throwing the engine in the trash anyway , maybe you should just keep driving it and see if it clears up . Maybe get some fencing wire and make a rough dipstick that touches the bottom of the sump to keep an eye on how much oil is left .

 

[EddieWalker]

Iron,

The manual clearly calls for nine quarts. When I put the nine quarts in, the oil level on the dipstick is perfect. I drove it with nine quarts in it before the rebuild, and for two years after the last reabuild. Nine quarts worked fine then, so that's not it.

The owner of the machine shops says a sanded engine is very common in this area. We have red clay and clay is made up of very fine particles. If it gets into the engine, it wears out the oil rings real fast. He said they are very thin and not designed for any sort of friction. The compression rings will last allot longer due to their size. He said that's why I have compression, but no oil rings.

He thinks the bearings are probably fine, but is worried about the taper on the cylinder walls. It's very minor, but there is some taper on them. After so few hours, there shouldn't be any. That's another problem to add to the list that's growing on a daily basis.

He thinks the dust caused the problems with the valve stems and then got mixed in with the engine oil. It's too fine to be caught by the filter, so it just created a mild roughness to the oil that circulated around the engine. In his experience, he said the bearings are usualy good, but the oil control rings are bad. That's what goes first. The valve stems may or may not have been done poorly in the first rebuild, he won't say for sure either way on that, but he thinks that if they were good then, and I never had any oil issues or smoke issues until this happened, then he thinks the dust wore out the valve stems.

I'm just going to pull the engine and have him do his thing to it. If I could find a Ford 370 block or running engine, I woudl buy it. They are very, very hard to find. The pice of a new, working 460 is also rediculous. The cheapest thing to do is to pull the engine and let him go through it, replacing and redoing what needs to be done.

That part isn't even a big deal, he said he'd give me new gaskets and work with me on labor if it's dusted because he just did the engine. What kills me is having to do this all over again. At least I should know what I'm doing and everything is clean and easy to get to.

Thanks,
Eddie

 

[Eagleview]

OK Ok .

 

[RobS]

Sorry to hear of all these troubles Eddie, this shouldn't be happening to you, of all people. I've never heard of a sanded engine, but I sure would want to know how to prevent it, if that's what caused it. Is it intake air filtration or air getting into the crankcase directly?