New Farm and Need a Tractor..

[MickeyDBC]

If you are buying new and looking at the 70 to 100 HP range, 74 and under do not have to use the DEF (diesel exhaust fluid) which can be a real pain. EGR and DPF are bad enough, throw in frozen DEF on a cold morning and you can have a real nightmare.

 

[jeff9366]

I was under the impression I needed something in the 100 hp range. Now I think I will be fine with less horsepower.

$9,000 saved for implements.

You will need to examine Loader lift capacities critically, both for brute lift and lift to full height. You probably want 1,600 pounds lift capacity to full height. Usually two Loaders are available for each 4,000 pound to 5,000 pound tractor model.

SSQA bucket attachment option is well worth the money. Bale spears are SSQA too. You have 250 pounds more payload available eliminating the bucket with SSQA.
See Post #14.

SSQA = Skid Steer Quick Attach; an industry standard.

 

[TheMan419]

We are a wee operation compared to what you bought. However like you I knew little about tractors when I first bought. I learned a lot here that helped me make a good decision.

Honestly the biggest thing for me was dealer. In whatever size and configuration you choose, JD, NH and Kubota (and many others) will have a couple different choices for you.

For me I had JD, Kubota and New Holland close by. I went and "test drove" each of them. Neither the JD or Kubota dealer would give me the time of day. The NH guys were great and helpful. So I am now team Blue.

The other consideration is if your land has fencing laid out already you might see if the dealer will bring the tractor to your property. You can then see it fits in the pasture, can turn through the gates etc etc.

If you are handy and can fix the tractor then dealer support may not be as important.

 

[UpNorthMN]

We are a wee operation compared to what you bought. However like you I knew little about tractors when I first bought. I learned a lot here that helped me make a good decision.

Honestly the biggest thing for me was dealer. In whatever size and configuration you choose, JD, NH and Kubota (and many others) will have a couple different choices for you.

For me I had JD, Kubota and New Holland close by. I went and "test drove" each of them. Neither the JD or Kubota dealer would give me the time of day. The NH guys were great and helpful. So I am now team Blue.

The other consideration is if your land has fencing laid out already you might see if the dealer will bring the tractor to your property. You can then see it fits in the pasture, can turn through the gates etc etc.

If you are handy and can fix the tractor then dealer support may not be as important.

This is a huge point. It may come to be a decision not of which tractor is exactly the best for you, but what dealer treats you the best. Once you buy it, you want a dealer who won’t ignore you just because he made the sale.

 

[AWSubie]

Here are the three models you should start out looking at and then go from here based on what you learn and experience at the dealer:

New Holland Boomer 50 Cab HST
Massey 1749 Cab HST
John Deere 4052R

I recommend buying new. My experience is that the tractor market is not like the car market. You will not see a big difference in price by purchasing used unless you buy a tractor that is 7-10 years older with 2000 or more hours. If you are like me you would rather spend time using your tractor than working on it (I actually do enjoy working on my tractors, its just that frustrations can build quickly when you need to get work done and a tractor is down for maintenance. I have a new tractor and an old tractor).

I highly suggest a cab version, especially if your 40+ years old, it just makes life so much more enjoyable and you will be able to work longer in hot and cold. And if you decide the "farm life" is not for you in a few years the cab has much better resale value.

Doesn't sound like you will be doing row crop work so go with a hydrostatic transmission; much easier to negotiate through the woods (my property is heavily wooded and I am grateful I chose a HST). I also think you would appreciate the HST for moving snow as well.

Consider a third function or diverter valve for your front end loader, you can do a lot of work with just the bucket and some clamp on forks, BUT having a grapple opens up a whole new world to getting a lot of work done in the woods and saving your back and time.

You've got my 2 cents worth, go forth and have fun learning about tractors!!!

 

[chaded]

Thanks for all of your replies (feel free to keep them coming!). It seems my criteria has changed from what I originally thought it would be, nothing wrong with that. So now, I think I am leaning towards buying new instead of used unless the right situation presents itself.

I have researched so many tractors and there are way too many options out there. One that I have looked at several times is the Massey Ferguson 1758/59. It looks like a nice tractor but im not 100% on it yet.

It is about 400-500lbs lighter then the 243 Im using now but i could probably make that up with loaded tires? Unless the 243 has loaded tires (will have to find out). Maybe that weight difference doesnt mean much? I know after removing snow from our long downhill/uphill drive the other day I don’t want something much lighter (243 is right around 5000-5100lbs)...

The horsepower is 59 on the 1758/59 but PTO is 44-45. The MF 243 is 47 so not a real huge difference. I cant seem to find the loader lift specs on the MF 1758/59.

Anyways, I wonder if this tractor is just slightly on the small side and if i should step up to a little bigger. Im not stuck on Massey either, just one that stuck out to me during research.

 

[jeff9366]

Most new tractors in the range you are considering have turbo-charged diesel engines, partly to meet emission standards. Same power with less weight. That accounts for some of the weight decrease across all brands.

Standard Loaders are 15% to 20% more powerful today then when the MF247 was constructed 1999-2003 and 15% or so heavier. And there is usually a more powerful loader option for most models.

Operating weight of most Loader equipped tractors is 50% heavier than bare tractor weight.

HST transmission is available to about 60-horespower, above that only shuttle shift, which is fine.

You need loaded tires for stability in your hilly conditions, so if you feel you need more weight look at heavier chassis models. Keep in mind as tractors get heavier, they get wider and you have considerable woodland.

If buying new and looking at the 70 to 100 HP range, 74 horsepower and under do not have to use the DEF (diesel exhaust fluid). EGR and DPF are bad enough, throw in frozen DEF on a cold morning and you can have a real nightmare.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.​

 

[chaded]

Most new tractors in the range you are considering have turbo-charged diesel engines today. Same power with less weight. That accounts for some of the weight decrease across all brands.

Standard Loaders are 15% to 20% more powerful today then when the MF247 was constructed 1999-2003. And there is usually a more powerful loader option for most models.

You need loaded tires for stability in your hilly conditions, so if you feel you need more weight look at heavier chassis models.

Do you think 400-500 pounds is a considerable difference? Assuming the mf 243 doesnt have loaded tires i could probably make up that weight difference? Also, what are your thoughts on the PTO hp being 45 for my case? You recommended 50-60 but didn’t specify PTO (unless i missed it).

 

[jeff9366]

It seems your driveway work, winter snow clearing and spring/summer maintenance, is your challenge. This is ground contact work, where tractor weight, 4-WD and loaded rear tires are most important. Horsepower is almost irrelevant.

You can always install tire chains for the winter. Some, who do not road their tractors, use tire chains year around in field work. High quality chains on those big rear wheels are amazing. Tractor tire chains come in steel and rubber.

What PTO powered implements do you foresee operating?

Beginning at 80-horsepower tractors are equipped with a Category III Three Point Hitch. I would stay with Category II equipment which is readily available and competitively priced. When you get to Category III implements it is a relatively small pond and implement prices escalate.

My tractor is Category I. I like being able to order implements from the internet, often from everythingattachments.com or Iowa Farm Equipment.com, and have said implements arrive on a semi trailer three or four days later. Almost all Category I implements are available in Category II from the same venders. Not so, Category III implements.

As you described land conditions as very hilly, the MF 247 almost certainly has loaded rear tires.

 

[LightningCamaroGuy]

IMO I think you should look at something bigger and beefier than the typical compact utility tractor. More like a larger utility/Ag tractor. Something with some heft/weight/beefiness to it. Look at the axles and tire sizes as a good indicator of how capable it is. Shear HP is no longer a good indicator of a tractors capability like it was 20+ years ago as there are plenty of lightweight tractors with plenty of HP to turn an implement with the PTO, but aren't really built heavy and beefy enough to ideally pull large/heavy plows, or lifting heavy loads, or doing a lot of tough wood work like pulling heavy trees up steep hills, etc. The reason I say this is that 250+ acres is a pretty nice chunk of land and you are going to want a tough and capable tractor to work it.

If you are wanting something newer in the price range you are listing with your local dealers I would look at something like a JD 5085E or a Massey Ferguson 4700 series tractor. Both are 6000+ lb tractors that have capable loaders available for them. Maybe something like a NH T4.75 but I'm not really liking the newer NH Workmaster series as they just look very light duty compared to their competitors IMO. If you want to look at 80's or 90's style of tractors I prefer the older Ford/NH tractors over others. Maybe something like a 4630 or 5610, and maybe even a 6610. I agree with others that I think you should look for a tractor with 4WD and a capable FEL. Two things we always did without when I was growing up for the most part, but things that you'll wonder how you did without once you get use to them. I plan a buying a newer tractor in the next few months and it will have at least 4WD and likely a FEL.