New Garage/Barn, hole to roof

[EddieWalker]

I'm with ultrarunner here. That flashing is totaly wrong. It should be under the sideing, not in front of it. Now you have to get a perfect seal to keep water out, and keep that seal for all eternity. As soon as the caulking cracks or seperates, you will have watering leaking in behind it.

You need to pull the siding and change it.

Sorry,
Eddie

 

[jamiec]

I think the way to fix it would be to use the that layer of t1/11 as sheathing put some typar on it and then put another layer over it for the siding over the step flashing where it belongs. the only other way to fix it wold be to remove all the step flashing, remove t1/11 re flash then resheath dont think the contractor will do that and think the other way will be as good as solution as the lator anyway. just my 2 cents.

 

[whodat90]

Yeah, that's what I thought. I've already called the contractor and let him know. I don't know if they're going to be out working today, as there's 2" of snow on the ground/barn, and they're mostly finished till the concrete pour anyhow. I think the problem was that the roofers came out and finished up the roof on saturday, without any of the contractors to give them the stinkeye. I'm still mad about the trash issue. Well, I'll see what the contractor does before I get too mad. BTW, what's the purpose of the typar (I'm guessing something like tyvek?) between the layers?
Thanks for the help!
whodat

 

[whodat90]

Good news and mediocre news. The good news is that it's only going to cost me $235 to have new 200a service run out to it. That's clearing the right of way, trenching, running the wire, backfilling, and hooking up to my meter. Can't beat that deal with a stick! The mediocre: I've been spending some time looking at the barn and came up with a few items for the punch list. Most of them are minor, but the biggie is the beam that supports the shed roof. It's made of doubled 2x8s, but the joints are poorly staggered. There's a max of 2' overlap, the joints aren't resting on any of the support poles, and one of the joints is smack dab in the middle of the longest unsupported span. This joint has sagged 1/2" between the posts. This problem is exacerbated (I believe) by the fact that the posts are set on concrete, but are not set in concrete. This leaves them free to lift up a bit, if (for example) levered up by a sagging roof. I hope to talk to the contractor about this tomorrow; he's been sidelined with health issues for a week or so.

 

[EddieWalker]

I'm confused. Any chance that you can post some pictures??

Most problems have solutions, it's just a matter of understanding the problem.

Thanks,
Eddie

 

[whodat90]

No pics right now, I'll try to get home while it's still daylight and snap some. Durn work, always taking up my useful tractoring time. Anyway, the beam that supports the outer end of the shed roof rafters sits on 6 4x4 posts. These are set on concrete; the concrete is about 1.5' down from grade level. Soil (heavy clay) is then compacted around them. Keeps them from moving around, provides a firm base that resists downward force from the roof load, but provides no resistance to liftup. The posts are, for the most part, evenly spaced with one span of 9' to match the rear garage door. The beam that rests between the posts and the rafters is made of two 2x8s laminated together. They are not 40' long, so they had to be laminated together out of shorter stock, staggering the joints side to side. The overlap where the joints lie is only 2'. It seems to me that the overlap should be as large as posssible, and that the overlap portion or one of the joints should rest on top of one of the posts. They didn't do this, and it's starting to sag. Behold my super-de-duper MS Paint skills!

 

[Mattlt]

I'm getting in on this a little late, but, regarding your discussion of I-beam joists vs. floor trusses vs. 2x lumber... I-beam joists can be VERY dangerous in a fire situation. It doesn't take very much fire to seriously weaken them.

See the link below:

Rapid Intervention - Media - Monthly Training Topic - February 2005 - Collapse Dangers of Engineered Wood Beams

 

[EddieWalker]

The beam that rests between the posts and the rafters is made of two 2x8s laminated together. They are not 40' long, so they had to be laminated together out of shorter stock, staggering the joints side to side. The overlap where the joints lie is only 2'. It seems to me that the overlap should be as large as posssible, and that the overlap portion or one of the joints should rest on top of one of the posts. They didn't do this, and it's starting to sag.

I'm still confused on the posts, but I'll have to see the pics to fully comprehend what you did.

When you say the 2x8's are laminated together, is that the same as nailing/screwing two of them togehter on the flat sides to make a beam that is 3 inches wide?

Did they put plywood between the two boards?

If the did not put plywood between them, it won't matter where the spacing is, it will sag. Half inch plwood ripped to the same width of the boards and sandwiched between them will add tremendous strenght to the beam, and it will prefent it from sagging. 2 feet is plenty of overlap for all three pieces when done this way.

Before glulams were so common, that's how most garaged door headers were built.

If it was me, I'd jack up the beam to make it level or even give it a slight arch. Then I'd rip some half inch plywood to the height of your beam. Most 2x8's are just over 7 inches, but they all seem to vary about a quarter inch. Attach the plywood to the inside of the beam with liquid nails and screws with at least 2 feet of overlap. Then I'd put another 2x8 over the plywood with liquid nails and screws with another 2 feet of overlap and not where the beam overlaps on the otherside of the plywood.

If you did use plywood, then it's sagging because it wasn't connected together with enough nails/screws and glue.

If you did all these things and it's done right, and your still sagging, then the beam is way too small. I think that the 2x8's are probably OK for strength over a 9 foot span. How far apart are the other posts? How much weight is resting on them? It's just the roof right?

Eddie

 

[whodat90]

Yup, two 2x8s nailed together, flat to flat. No glue. Nope, didn't use the ply web. The plans didn't call for it, however. My problem is that they used too little offset on the splices. Example; if they had had one side's joint resting on an upright, and the other side's joint resting on another upright, then every span would be full-strength with two full beams spanning the distance, and the upright carrying the 'weak' joint. I understand your thinking on the repair, but that seems like a bandaid fix over a mistake. I'm not paying for a brand new building that was put up wrong and patched, I want the beam replaced.
whodat

I'm home now. Pic 1 shows the beam splice, highlighted for clarity.
Pic 2 shows the span where I noticed the sag, again highlighted for clarity. Pardon the MS paint, I never did get the hang of photoshop.

 

[EddieWalker]

A picture is worth a thousand words!!

It just never occured to me that anybody would have ended two boards in the middle of the span like that. WOW.

Looking at the picture, it's obviously not strong enough the way they did it. I'd cut off the ends of the 2x8's on the inside to the center of the posts. Then I'd put in another 2x8 that spans the full length from post to post and join it to the outside 2x8's.

It doesn't look too complicated, just a pain to have to go back and redo it. Plus they have to admit to doing it wrong, and sometimes that's harder than the actual labor.

I'd still add plywood between the 2x8's for additional strength, but that's just me.

Eddie