New Garage/Barn, hole to roof

   / New Garage/Barn, hole to roof #41  
Nice job on the trusses!! I've never done that type myself, but I've built a few trusses myself and I really like the use of the plywood to hold them together. I know the little metal plates the manufactures work just fine, but knowing it's allot stronger with plywood is a realy nice feeling!!!

Thanks for the pics,
Eddie
 
   / New Garage/Barn, hole to roof
  • Thread Starter
#42  
Lots to report, but nothing to really show for it. The weather here has been pretty bad, with lots of rain, lots of wind, lots of cold. I've had over 2" of rain come down on the advantek, and it's barely so much as raised the grain enough to feel. Definitely worth the cost increase. Put up some of the roof sheathing, but couldn't get too far with that due to manpower/weather issues. The other day when we were going to do it, the wind was steady 16mph gusting to 35mph, as measured at my house. Not what you want to be holding onto a 4x8 sail in. Yesterday we laid out where the dormer windows were going to go, and built all of their trusses. We decided to go with 2 windows per side rather than 3 due to the size; the roof is 44' long, the windows will be nearly 4' wide (glass) each, and the gambrel dormer design is about 6' wide total. With 2' of each end of the roof being overhang, that gave us 40 usable feet of roof, and with the dormers being 6' wide it left the roof looking cluttered with three windows. Putting one window in the center, and centering the other windows on each half would leave 6' of roof at the ends and ~6 feet between windows. Just too much, so we put the windows centered 14' from the ends of the roof overhang, with 16' between centers, or about 10' visually between the gables. I would have preferred to move them each out away from center a bit, but they have to be moved in 2' increments to lie between rafters and moving them each out 2' would have put them with ~9' on the ends and 12' between. Oh well, the framing is done now so it's too late to change it. The change does give me two more windows to play with though. I should have pics tomorrow of the work done today, which should be all the window framing. Tomorrow we expect to get the roof sheeted in and hopefully start the shingling next week.
whodat

Edit: Having three windows per side or placing the windows further from center would also have placed one at least partially above the stairs, which I was trying to avoid.
Second edit: we also decided to raise the attachment point for the rafters for the shed roof. They were supposed to tie in with the floor joists, we instead decided to tie them in above that for the extra height clearance and to allow a slightly steeper pitch. Due to space and setback constraints, we're going with a slightly shorter roof and overhang than plans call for.
 
   / New Garage/Barn, hole to roof #43  
Afternoon Whodat,
Your barn/garage caught my attention. Im hoping to build about the same size as your in a couple of years. Also planning on the gambrel style roof. I may have missed it in your thread but it appears that you went with 10ft walls ? Im planning on doing the same thing along with the larger doors, just in case I get a bigger tractor ;) Actually Im going to have my wood shop out there also and you know how nice it is to have 10 ft ceilings when wrestling with a 4x8 sheet of plywood.

Thanks for the pics!
 
   / New Garage/Barn, hole to roof
  • Thread Starter
#44  
Thanks! The wall height was based on a couple of things, primarily being garage door height. I'm going with 8' tall doors, and to span the distance across the 16' wide door we used doubled 18" LVL beams. That gets us 8' plus a 2x6 top plate above the door (but below the beam) plus a 2x4 top plate above the beam, with the upper floor joists resting on that. 8'+18"+1.5"+1.5"=9'9". Close enough to 10' for me, and I'm not entirely certain whether that measurement is from the sill plate, the block, or where the floor is going to end up being so it could vary by a couple inches either way when it's finished.
whodat
 
   / New Garage/Barn, hole to roof
  • Thread Starter
#45  
Lots done, short description is that the roof is sheeted in. Framed in for the gambrel windows.

Oh yeah, I measured and it's 9'7" from the bottom of the sill plate to the bottom of the upper floor joists. Concrete height below the sill plate is yet to be determined.
 

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   / New Garage/Barn, hole to roof #46  
Really looks great. Keep the pictures coming that are a great deal of help for the dreamers out here in TBN land. Thanks!
 
   / New Garage/Barn, hole to roof
  • Thread Starter
#47  
More updates, more pics. They framed in the shed roof, sheathed it, framed in and put siding up on the gable ends. Looks much bigger fully sheeted in, but feels much smaller on the inside. The roofers came out and dropped all their material off a couple days ago, and yesterday started the shingling. No pics of that yet, been leaving before dawn and coming home after dusk past coupla. No question about the strength of the trusses, the roofers put all their material in a row along the peak, and sighting down the inside shows no movement at all. Nice. My uncle came down and we got all the prep done for laying the concrete, now we just need a few days of good weather to do it. Did final framing for the doors, and started putting the trim up around the lower level. For a variety of reasons, we are closing up the 8'x8' opening in the second story floor, and will return to that project some time in the future (when more money falls out of the money tree.) Right now I need the storage space and separation of the two stories more than the convenience of being able to lift stuff through it. Alas, the overheight rear garage door is not quite a waste, but not as useful as hoped. The beam holding up the shed roof is about 1' lower than the top of the door opening, so while I can still bring overheight things into the garage, I can't necessarily drive straight through with them. I can't really get around the height limit of the shed roof without losing it entirely; we already raised the barn side attachment point as high as we could, and any higher at the outside end would leave it without much slope. Technically I could get away with less slope, but honestly I don't want to for visual reasons. Right now it's the same or very close to the same slope as the upper portion of the gambrel roof. Hopefully I can get home today before the light fails, and I'll take pics of the shingled roof.
 

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   / New Garage/Barn, hole to roof #48  
GEEZ ...I hate a showoff ;) .... wish I had that barn and you had a feather you know where -- we'd both be tickled.:D .... very pretty ---:)
 
   / New Garage/Barn, hole to roof
  • Thread Starter
#49  
Shingling is done. Yesterday and today averaged 12+ MPH, with gusts of 30+. Better them than me. Shingles match those on the house, and look nice. Not sure whether I like the flashing work yet, have to see what the contractor does with it first. The roofers did, however, pizz me and the wife off. They'd cut open a pack of shingles, and just let the wrapping go. The kids and I pulled two big trash bags of roofing debris out of the neighbor's yards. I called the contractor and complained, we'll see where that goes.
The gable doors are in, but not particularly well sealed, so we'll see how much work I have to do to make them reasonably airtight. I'll go out there tomorrow with a can of foam and see how much sealing I can do at the eaves, and see what I can do with the doors. One nice thing is that I had the gable doors finish opening made to the rough opening of a standard set of 5' french doors, so that if/when I put a deck on the end I can just unscrew the doors that are there, and slide the new one in the hole.
 

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   / New Garage/Barn, hole to roof #50  
Very Nice Barn!

Gambrel Flashing... In new construction, I've always run the step flashing under the siding. I also leave about a 2 inch space along the roof line and the bottom edge of the T1-11 to keep it from wicking water.

Keep the pictures coming!
 

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