New Garage Pole Barn 40 x 64 x 12

[hcallaway]

Thanks for all the kind words. I cannot wait to start finishing it out over the next few months. You can see the mud and lack of access for heavy trucks. I hope we install the septic system next and then drill the well. At some point the cement can get going. That is going to take more rock and to finish the road.

 

[hcallaway]

Final Day 5 Pictures
The shell is done. Septic, Well, Plumbing Rough in, Concrete and Electrical
to follow. Wet ground will be the big delay.

Nice to see all the trim.

They did a good job of cleaning up and getting the extras put away in the garage.
I ended up with a nice selection of extra 2 x 4's and some sheets of OBS that were not carried back.

Fits Nice It will eventually go under one of the sheds. Notice the most important item in the garage, everyone needs a chair to think. I think a bigger tractor would fit. One with a nice cab. That will have to wait for a new job down the road.

 

[Bartcephus]

Sweet!!!

 

[hokiebird]

Will you be insulating the building?

One question I have about the steel + OSB siding is whether or not you will be trapping condensation in between the steel and OSB. Steel is a very good barrier to water vapor transfer. So water vapor that gets transferred through the OSB and housewrap will hit the cold surfaces inside the siding and condense. If you don't have a good vapor barrier (insulated or not), that could be a problem. Unless you have vented space in between the OSB and steel siding to remove it.

But I like the building and the pics!

 

[hcallaway]

Will you be insulating the building?

One question I have about the steel + OSB siding is whether or not you will be trapping condensation in between the steel and OSB. Steel is a very good barrier to water vapor transfer. So water vapor that gets transferred through the OSB and housewrap will hit the cold surfaces inside the siding and condense. If you don't have a good vapor barrier (insulated or not), that could be a problem. Unless you have vented space in between the OSB and steel siding to remove it.

But I like the building and the pics!

My observation.
I have sold thousands of tons of HDG to coaters and metal roll formers over the last 13+ years. I asked all of them if this would be an issue. None of them felt it would be. All suggest to stay away from treated lumber for the sake of the metal and the screws. The roof has felt just like my last building. With the ribs on the building panels pattern most see today, there are natural airways. I have a ridge vent at the top so I don't think any roof with OSB and a vapor barrier would have any issues with condensation.

On to my walls which I think is the point you are making. On the section with my house wrap. It will be insulated on the inside. That is why it is only on the back section 16 x 40. The construction on the inside to out side will be. Sheetrock, Faced Insulation, (the nailing girts give me 1-2 inches of open spaceing), OSB, Tyvec and Metal Panel.


This was from a metal roofing web site. I am stealing his post.
"From the inside out, you should have drywall, vapor barrier, insulation, minimum 1" vented airspace, decking, underlayment, roofing. Anything less than this and you will have a greater chance of condensation issues."

I don't think I will have any issues. The roof or the walls should breath between the OSB and the metal even without a vapor barrier at least in the Richmond VA area. This might not be true in high humid areas.

 

[hcallaway]

Important Signs

Good for Directions when all you have is a dirt road.

I don't really know the length of my road. I am not real good at building a crown in the center so I used the lay of the land and built in a slight grade for run off. This should reduce my standing water. On my other drives the crown comes after time with traffic.

The ground transitions from clay to a fair amount of sandy soil.

You can see traces of the number 3 rock I have put down for a base on part of the road.

This is the view from the paved road looking back towards the barn. My truck is about a third of the way down the drive so you can tell it is a long drive.

I have put down about 60 tons and with the wet weather, 2 tractor trailers, the workmen, the bob cat, it all sank. I just added another 8 tons to what I think are problem areas. On Tue, I have 5 loads using tadem axle dump trucks (16Tons each) delivering and spreading more #3 rock. These are the size of golf balls and bigger. I wish I had the money for the road fabric. In the end I am sure it may have been more cost effective than I would have guessed. I have my 3Ton dump trailer, but I am worn out by all the trips to the quarry. I had gotten quotes of $200 hauling fees plus the rock. I can haul 3-4 tons for about $50.
I noticed when I pick up rock that there is usually a superviser for a trucking company there at the quarry watching his trucks load each day. I asked the quarry for a quote. $430 tax, rock and delivery. I went up to the superviser and told him I needed 4-5 trucks and knew the quarry would try and stick it to me on the delivery charge (my opinion). He quoted a $100 flat fee plus the rock. He will sell me the rock at the contractors price. Each load with him will total around $300. A nice savings of $500 vs using the quarry for 5 loads. They actually use him for most of their loads but are building in more margin for their effort. I had quoted the same trucking company at the beginning of my building and by calling their dispatch they were the same price as the quarry several months ago. Go direct and try speak to the trucking coordinator at the quarry. They are always in pickups with a trucking logo on the door. I guess he can make decisions on the fly.

 

[hcallaway]

After running out of time on 2 other days the trucking company was able to fit me into their schedule. They delivered 5 trucks with about 20 tons each. My drive that eats rock can now feast some more.

In Virginia, I am ordering small 3's from Luck Stone.

Down a third of the way down my road it splits. I have deeded access down the tree line. The dirt road has been there for at least 50-75 years and actually it is super smooth except in the wet months.

We cut back the bushes on each side and cleaned up the trees.

The crew and Drake. 11 months old and a skinny 100#.

 

[hcallaway]

I started marking the story board for my floor. The top line is down about 1.5", so the top of the concrete will be flush with the bottom of the passenger doors.

The concrete will be 4" thick and the grave will be 4 -6 thick.
My debate is the use of wire mesh, rebar and or fiber, a combination of them (depending on the area). I have spoke to several contractors that tell me if the floor is properly compacted, fiber is all you really need.

 

[hcallaway]

I got a quote to pour and finish the concrete for $2500. I think that this is a great deal.
I will have 2560' garage, 900' under sheds and 800' in pads outside the roll up doors. This totals 4260 square feet. It will take about 50 yards of concrete. I will do all the site work, frame the pads and gravel and supply any materials. $.586 per square foot to pour and fan the concrete.
It will take 2-3 days in labor.

 

[wedge40]

Nice when people give prices of material cost. I know they can vary greatly from location to location, but still gives ball park figure. I'm having 32'x48' built this spring/summer and will have the concrete work done after the fact as well. I'm hoping I can do most of the prep work myself and save some money.

Will you be insulating the concrete from the ground at all. I plan on installing radiant heat so I maybe different than you.

Wedge