New here w/ Ford 861

[Soundguy]

big one on the end is armature

2 smalls.. one is field.. one is ground. ground one has no insulation grommet and is simple a stud pressed into the casing. the field stud will have a rubber or phenolic insulation grommet at the casing.

positive ground means that positive is chassie, and negative is your 'hot' lead... ie.. negative goes to the starter, and is thus the hot lead.

soundguy

 

[jeff pk]

cam folower pin is likely worn and / or the lift cover linkage needs adjustment.. that is the probable lifting at only the top of the quadrant issue. 13$ top cover kit and a 2$ dowel and about 4 hours MAX time to rehab the top cover... less time if the 3pt linkages come apart easilly.

as WD said.. gravity down only.. thus if the rockshaft bushings have any crud in their bores.. they may stick up unless helped down by weight.. as long s it goes down with hand pressur eor a light inplement.. it's good to go.

on the genny.. don't assume brushes.. cuz if the vreg is bad.. the genny won't make any go juice!!

big connection is armature.. small connection is field.

motor test it.

engine off.

slip belt off genny

jump bat hot to armature and field with their wires pulled from the genny. if the genny spinds.. she will probably charge.

that lil test also poalrized her, in case for some odd reason she wasn't.

now.. if she don't spin.. take her and the vreg to a rebuilder.

if she does spin, hook back up and start her up.. if no charge at the bat, full field her by jumping bat hot to the field spade for a sec.. if charge comes up.. vreg needs attention, as field ckt is open.

if still nada, jump bat hot to armature.. .. if that makes her charge, vreg needs attention as cutout is open.

if neither help, but she did spin, jump bat hot to arm and field.. if that makes charge, then vreg field and cutout ckts are open.

soundguy

Jump tested the genny and she spun---not terribly fast but good steady clip. So then I checked the vreg field jump and there was a sharp rise in charge and she even seemed to run at 7v after for a bit. Jumped the vreg arm. and no difference. Is it worth trying to repair the vreg or should I just buy a new one for $30.00

I'd be lost without you soundguy---thanks!

 

[Soundguy]

vregs are essentially non repairable.

bypass the cutout and full field her to test that genny before you buy anything. she motor'd that's good.. but veryify she WILL charge.

on rare offacions I see ones with damaged fields that will motor due to some residual magnetism.. but won't do much charging due to no field...

 

[jeff pk]

So I hooked up the new vreg and the ammpers jumped around the gauge and then went to 0 and stayed there---6v at battery. Jumped the field connection for a sec and it started charging 8v at battery and a steady 20 ammpers at gauge. Seems to fluxuate between these two states---A) 0 gauge/6v battery and B) 20 ammpers gauge/7-8v battery. Is this normal vreg behavior?

Thanks again...

 

[Soundguy]

if the battery is low, the unit will charge at max for a while.

with nothing jumpered.. watch it.. if charge does not taper off from max, rap vret with a screwdriver handle.. see what happens..

I've had to dink witht he reg on my farmall H now and then.. same with some lucas vregs....

 

[jeff pk]

The vreg does seem to go on when I tap it---at least the guage jumps from 0 to 20.

I went to mow yesterday and was happy with the power through heavy brush. I'm running a 4' brush hog through waist high grass mixed with blackberry vines and it barely noticed. Then, after about 90 min. it started to surge and sputter, so I brought it back---barely made it home. I'm on a lot of hills, so my initial thought was that it was getting low on fuel. It seemed to run better when going down, and worse when steep up. Got it home and decided to change the oil, put in a new filter and 10w-40 oil and fired it up and saw the oil guage go between 50 at low idle to 100 at high revs---stabilized around 75-80 when it heated up. Can high oil pressure damage the engine? I'm thinking I'll change it to something thinner like 10w-30. Need to figure out the surging...

 

[Soundguy]

i run 15w40 in all mine... that said.. I think you may have a bad gauge.. or a problem with the relief valve. a red tiger should make about 55psi unless it is a claptrap.. in fact.. even at cold startup / full throttle, the relief should dump and you likely shouldn't see more than about 62 psi even on a tight engine...

as for the vreg.. might pry the case off and check the contacts.. cutout may be sticking.. or field contact may be striking off center and only hitting on a lil tiny spot, and thus carbon up. I had to tweak one in in my farmall H that way.. cheap chinese reg contacts not hitting squarely, and thus burned and carboned up fast. carefull adjust ment with some tweakum tools fixed it...

 

[jeff pk]

Pre oil change it was reading max around 50 and lowering at idle to 30ish. Is there some way to check that relief valve?

 

[Soundguy]

not easilly, except by observation.. and that requires a known good gauge.

any time I do an oil and filter change and get a DRASTIC oil pressure difference, that's a sure sign to remove that new oil filter and cut it opena nd look and see if it has come apart.

since you can get a spin on filter ( if it is a spin on ).. for as little as 3$.. it's worth it... if not a spin on... the canister is only about 7$ and still worth it...

soundguy

 

[jeff pk]

The filter I got from Yesterday's tractor is different from what was on the tractor. Also, the spin-on slot was facing down not up. So moved the slot up (says TOP on it), and will try again with another filter. They sent me a Baldwin B2 filter #D9NN6714EA or E7NN6714AA. One that was on it was Donaldson P550580. Which one is correct? I will also use the 15w-40 oil and a new guage.

Thanks Soundguy!