New Holland Boomer 37 in DPF Shutdown Mode

[51allis]

I bought the fuel shut off solenoid, but I can't figure out how to remove the pigtails from the mount so I can unscrew the stock solenoid without twisting up the wires. Also found out that unplugging the 3 wire for the rack position sensor will prevent cranking if you don't crank as soon as turning the key on, and will alarm, but that may have been explained already in this thread. Don't know if that's typical for boomer 47 since I have a messed up ecu.

I can tell you this so far about my tractor. Got it running again, had to follow the video on youtube for using a manual throttle cable etc. and gutted the dpf filter. Removed the fuel lines to the secondary burner for the exhaust so it no longer has fuel going to it and just routed the return back to tank. I made a specific cable holder instead of just using cable ties etc. Wired the injection pump solenoid so its on when in the key run position as well as the fuel pump, once the key is in the off position it shuts off the injection pump solenoid (this is on the 12V side of the solenoid, not the 5v, left those unplugged and the solenoid has not over heated etc. as the manual states may happen, put over 100 hours so far with no issue) and fuel pump and tractor stops running. I've had issues since doing this, one I lost RPM Gauge, glow plugs, and hour gauge but that's ok for now. Everything else works including the PTO selector etc. The ECU no longer controls the tractor. The tractor seems to have more power since doing this. This spring I will be tackling the glow plug issue just by passing the ECU controlling of it etc. and others, but I saved over $5 grand, my tractor is finally running and I now have a more reliable tractor that runs like the diesels of old.

 

[Craigercj]

I can tell you this so far about my tractor. Got it running again, had to follow the video on youtube for using a manual throttle cable etc. and gutted the dpf filter. Removed the fuel lines to the secondary burner for the exhaust so it no longer has fuel going to it and just routed the return back to tank. I made a specific cable holder instead of just using cable ties etc. Wired the injection pump solenoid so its on when in the key run position as well as the fuel pump, once the key is in the off position it shuts off the injection pump solenoid (this is on the 12V side of the solenoid, not the 5v, left those unplugged and the solenoid has not over heated etc. as the manual states may happen, put over 100 hours so far with no issue) and fuel pump and tractor stops running. I've had issues since doing this, one I lost RPM Gauge, glow plugs, and hour gauge but that's ok for now. Everything else works including the PTO selector etc. The ECU no longer controls the tractor. The tractor seems to have more power since doing this. This spring I will be tackling the glow plug issue just by passing the ECU controlling of it etc. and others, but I saved over $5 grand, my tractor is finally running and I now have a more reliable tractor that runs like the diesels of old.

Yeah, My dash is mostly dead from the canbus short. I wired in new RPM, oil pressure light, temperature gauge, hour meter. The fuel gauge still works, it doesn't go through the ecu.

The hour meter I did on a 5 pin relay with the oil pressure light controlled by the oil pressure switch and powered by the key. Oil pressure light is normally open pin, hour meter is normally closed pin.

The ECU seems to still be running the glow plugs for me, although the light is dead. I haven't verified with multimeter but it started in the winter so... I need to do a glow plug light.

I need to put in another temperature switch to an alarm and light for overheat condition, since that protection is gone.

Good idea on the fuel return. Someday i want to get rid of the egr, air pump, etc.

 

[Craigercj]

I wonder if theres some programming differences between LS and new holland, new hollands being specific to their EST.

 

[51allis]

I wonder if theres some programming differences between LS and new holland, new hollands being specific to their EST.

In theory....if you have manual injectors and you energize the injection pump solenoid plus the fuel pump...then engine should run until you cut power to both injection pump solenoid and electric fuel pump. Then you need to make sure you are able to put some kind of throttle. After that, I dont see why a new holland is any different than an LS since some of the NH were made by LS Mitron. Like Craigercj said he actually plans to remove just about everything and put his own engine monitoring gauges on the tractor, which I too am planning on doing. I think the alternator is what sends a tach signal after I verify this I will take the alternator to a rebuild shop to have it "one wire" and keep tach signal active so I can add my own rpm gauge. The ECM's on these tractors are really wonky, example, I dont use the ECM to control the engine anymore, but, I adjusted the idle down and the ECM said the engine had no oil pressure, so I double checked with a gauge and it had GREAT oil pressure, but the ECM said it didn't, then I shut off tractor for a day, then restarted and the oil pressure light was off. I do plan to totally redo the wiring on the tractor and fully eliminating the ECU etc. when I get time in the fall. But no turning back now and I am very happy with how the tractor runs and the increase in power, its enough of an increase where I do plan to upgrade the main hydraulic pump to a higher flowing one (taken from a NH Boomer 4060) going from 8gpm to 12gpm because I know with added power from the engine, I can power the upgraded pump too.

 

[Craigercj]

I was thinking the LS might have a different program, which is maybe why yours went haywire after the mod, and it seems like there are a variety of issues some people see and some don't after the delete on the range of tractors its being done to.

Theres two speed sensors on the tractor for the ecu controlled tach, a crank shaft and cam shaft sensor.

I used a gauge from Speedhut that reads off the W post of the alternator. I set it to the max/min speeds in the specsheet but haven't verified the setting with a laser tach yet.

 

[Craigercj]

The wiring diagram would need some study to figure out the start interlocks. The ecu powers up the main relay and grounds the starter relay signal, and it's not really documented in the repair manual whythe ECU decides it won't ground the starter relay (no documentation about why you have to immediately crank when turning the key after unhooking the 5v signal wires from the linear solenoid). I think if you ground the starter relay signal, and wire the main relay to the key switch, the safety controller will still function with the good interlocks (hst neutral, pto off, etc.).

 

[Craigercj]

The wiring diagram would need some study to figure out the start interlocks. The ecu powers up the main relay and grounds the starter relay signal, and it's not really documented in the repair manual whythe ECU decides it won't ground the starter relay (no documentation about why you have to immediately crank when turning the key after unhooking the 5v signal wires from the linear solenoid). I think if you ground the starter relay signal, and wire the main relay to the key switch, the safety controller will still function with the good interlocks (hst neutral, pto off, etc.).

Well maybe not that simple, probably need a relay from the safety controller to ground the starter relay..

 

[51allis]

The wiring diagram would need some study to figure out the start interlocks. I think if you ground the starter relay signal, and wire the main relay to the key switch, the safety controller will still function with the good interlocks (hst neutral, pto off, etc.).

In my case, my tractor is a gear (synchro shuttle) and I wired from key on-power on side of switch to both the fuel pump and injection pump relay (12v side), so that when the key is turned in the on position, both are powered, then when turning to crank position it cranks engine. I also wired the starter differently because the ECU was controlling it. As for the glow plug issue I have, Im thinking of just putting in a rubber covered push buttion that would be powered (in line fused) all the time then when pushing the rubber covered button it would go to the glow plug relay and energize the glow plugs BEFORE turning the key on. I would do this because I don't want there to be rich starting situation while waiting for the glow plug to energize and having the key on. Basically, I just need a tractor that is simple, power steering, loader, 3pt, headlights and taillights for safety, with manual gauges (RPM, coolant temp, Battery, hour meter, and fuel level) and it seems to me like all they did was complicate this principal much like automobiles. But it is what it is, I couldn't pay the dealer to fix the issues, he wanted 5 grand to repair everything (ECU, emissions etc.) and that was for him to just tear out everything and replace, most don't bother to fix things anymore, they just replace parts. I miss the days of old and for sure I will never get rid of my 51' A/C WD45 as a backup on the farm. I don't care what kind of new stuff comes out, it will reach the point where I wont even be able to fix it and that raises the cost of doing things substantially. Good luck with the wiring diagram diagnostics.

 

[Craigercj]

"I would do this because I don't want there to be rich starting situation while waiting for the glow plug to energize and having the key on."

Is that a thing? Wouldn't it just pump back to the tank?

I'm not sure the electric pump is even needed. In the manuals it's part of the after-burner system and not shown on the start circuit diagrams. One guy on the youtube video commented he had to disconnect the pump to keep his tractor running.

 

[Craigercj]

Good idea on the fuel return. Someday i want to get rid of the egr, air pump, etc.

Disregard the egr comment. The egr thing has been confusing me cause my 2016 definitely doesn't have one, but it's in the repair manuals.