NEW HOLLAND TC35DA TOP AND TILT

[chuckcnm]

Have a question about my top and tilt on my 2002 new holland TC35DA. I bought the tractor 3 hand with 1500 hours on it. Everything works find except I think I have an issue with my top and tilt cylinder. It appears to only go half travel. I have about 3.5 inches of piston shaft still showing when I bring it up and when i try to level out the 3 pt i cant because it wont go up any farther and when I adjust the LEVELLING DEVICE which is now mounted on the left side, I run out of screw before i get it level.

Before I pull the cylinder apart, your thoughts, and thanks.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

How far will it extend? How long is the actual cylinder? Does it only move out 1 or 2 inches? Can you post some pictures of it?

 

[chuckcnm]

There is about 3.5 to 4 in showing and will extend another 3.5 to 4 inches

 

[chuckcnm]

Sorry, no pics right now the complete unit is about 10-12 inches long. I am waiting on my tentant to send me the part number if he can find one.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Really need more info to be able to truly help. Knowing the length of the cylinder will tell me if it is retracting all the way. There are setups that have 3-4 inches of rod out of the cylinder when fully retracted. When you say the unit, is that just the cylinder, or is that the top connector also? The rod isn't bent is it?

 

[chuckcnm]

Thanks I will get the lenght tomorrow i hope and post when i get it. on thing i did notice is the at the bottom of the piston that connects to the right lift arm, there is what appears to be a paint ring, part of it is rubbed off.

 

[J_J]

When you say the cyl rod wll not extend, is the relief activating.

Is there a mechanical stop somewhere, or restriction. Remove the cyl end piece and see if the cyl will extend.

What is the pressure at the cyl when trying to use the cyl.

 

[boggen]

double check all your oil levels. if hyd oil is low, and you have air in the cylinder / hoses. might be causing you some problems *shrugs*

do you have the top and tilt cylinders swapped?

do you have anything attached to the 3pt hitch?

do the valves / levers that control top N tilt. have some sort of butterfly nut/screw that is being set, so when you move lever it stops lever from traveling any further? is lever just being moved to a "dent" and not further?

 

[chuckcnm]

Thanks all, i was not totally clear. I only have the tilt on the right arm. I will fully extend, pushing the arm down. when i try to raise the right arm it only goes to what appears to half way in with about 3.5" of the chrome showing.

This happens with or with out anything on the 3pt
The lever appears to be moving full travel, and you can tell when it reachs the end of travel, low idel the engine boggs down.

Sorry for the confusion, I have CRS

 

[boggen]

listen to the other 2 J_J and MtnViewRanch that are much more knowledgeable than i.

the "turn buckle" large long nut with eye bolts that connect to lower lift arm and the (not sure name above the lift arm), you say run out of screw. trying to level things.

just wondering if you buying this third hand. if someone just tossed a longer turnbuckle or shorter turn buckle for that side. or just tossed a couple old cylinders together to make a working cylinder.

wondering if you are trying to set things "to high" to get things level. vs turning the turn buckle to make it longer on left hand side, and then extending/contracting right hand side tilt cylinder for level. adjusting top cylinder / link to get things level for forward and backwards. that way you can raise or lower the cylinder to tilt 3pt hitch equipment in both directions.

granted the cylinder that is only moving part way may be something, but *shrugs*

 

[jinman]

Chuck, I bought a tilt cylinder from my NH dealer and it is in the photo below. This cylinder has a 6" throw. In the photo, the rod is centered for travel. That means there is around 2-1/2" of rod that will still be exposed when the cylinder is fully retracted. As a rough estimate of how much rod should extend, measure the distance between the hydraulic fittings on your cylinder. As you can see with my cylinder, it's about 6" between fittings.

My cylinder was/is much too long. I had an inch cut off of it and rewelded, but I should have had 2" cut off and maybe 1" cut off the ball adapter on top. To level my 3PH at half the cylinder's extension, I have to run my adjustable handcrank side out to only about 1" of thread remaining. I don't like running that close and really need to modify my cylinder some more for a better fit. I think I'd be much happier with it that way.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Chuck, I bought a tilt cylinder from my NH dealer and it is in the photo below. This cylinder has a 6" throw. In the photo, the rod is centered for travel. That means there is around 2-1/2" of rod that will still be exposed when the cylinder is fully retracted. As a rough estimate of how much rod should extend, measure the distance between the hydraulic fittings on your cylinder. As you can see with my cylinder, it's about 6" between fittings.

My cylinder was/is much too long. I had an inch cut off of it and rewelded, but I should have had 2" cut off and maybe 1" cut off the ball adapter on top. To level my 3PH at half the cylinder's extension, I have to run my adjustable handcrank side out to only about 1" of thread remaining. I don't like running that close and really need to modify my cylinder some more for a better fit. I think I'd be much happier with it that way.

Unfortunately this is a very common problem. Manufacturers build these side links with a cylinder that "fits" not ever thinking that it needs to tilt the implement in BOTH directions. Jim in your case it looks-sounds to me that your side link was either intended to be used on a larger tractor or to be fully retracted when the implement was level and you would only have tilt to one side. Shorten that it up like you said and you will be much happier with it.

 

[chuckcnm]

Jinman, this pic you have is very close to what i have in the fully retracted position with about 3.5 to 4" of piston still showing. If i remember correctly my ports are closer together. i am waiting on some pics to be sent to me and i hope a part number.

Looks like I need to do some more investigating to see what I really have.

To lever out the arms i have about a 1/2 of thread left when level, which is no good at all

 

[dynasim]

Could the rod be bent. That isa possible reason a cylinder won't fully retract. Don't ask me how I know.

Chris

 

[J_J]

No one has said whether full pressure was applied, and did the relief ever activate?

As I said before, remove the cyl yoke from the rod end and see if the cyl has full stroke.

If you have full stroke and when connected, not full stroke, then there is a mechanical blockage or resistance.

Did the cyl work normal before, as in full stroke?

 

[chuckcnm]

Thanks JJ, when I can get back out to the tractor I will remove the yoke and see if it will retracts all the way. I did try to retract it and once it reach the point it is at now the tractor would boog down some so I released the lever I am guess the relief activated at this time.

No this is how i bougth it, the guy said it has always work that way so i took he word for it. Now that I am using the 3pt more i realized there is an issue.

I did not check but could/is it possiable the hoses could be reversed

 

[J_J]

The work port hoses would not matter as you provide whatever fluid you want the cyl to have. The lever on the valve has the same distance in extend as retract. The cyl should extend or retract untill the relief pressure is met.

Bent rod or mechanical limitation is my guess. Air in cyl would give a spongy feel, and should purge itself.

If you do have QD's on the Tilt cyl, try re-seating them.

 

[chuckcnm]

Well here is what I got. the part number is a HSL 3203, from what I can fine is that it only has a 4" strok. So it is working right. the other numbers on it is ML 06 05 S, which I can not find anything on.

There are not problems with a mechanical blockage or resistance.

So I guess what i need to do to make this work is to either get a longer crank link or shorten the shaft on the tilt pistion.

I guess i will only have a one way tilt, DANG

 

[Zebrafive]

Well here is what I got. the part number is a HSL 3203, from what I can fine is that it only has a 4" strok. So it is working right. the other numbers on it is ML 06 05 S, which I can not find anything on.

There are not problems with a mechanical blockage or resistance.

So I guess what i need to do to make this work is to either get a longer crank link or shorten the shaft on the tilt pistion.

I guess i will only have a one way tilt, DANG

So you determined your cylinder has a 4" stroke and that you can cycle the 4"s and there is still chrome rod outside the cylinder as in the rod is longer than needed.?

 

[J_J]

There is about 3.5 to 4 in showing and will extend another 3.5 to 4 inches

You said this, so what brought you to this conclusion?

You now say the stroke is only 4 in.