NEW ROLLER & SHEEPS FOOT - ON THE WAY

[crash325]

Nice use of acquired inventory! (scrap steel)
I noticed the mention you were going to grind off the galvanized coating where the welding was going to be done, and thought I might add a little "safety police" statement.
Hot dipped galvanize is not a coating, but rather a process that allows zinc to chemically bond with the existing steel, forming several layers of protection. This process is hard to remove without actually removing all of the layers, which if done correctly is significant in the amount of steel you have to remove. The more you remove, the better your welds are going to look, giving you the feeling that you must have gotten it all. Since I build most of my projects from the same source as you, I can't say "don't do it", but prefer to mention that zinc posioning is nasty and that even though you ground off the galvanized coating, you really aren't getting all of it.
SO..., whenever welding, cutting, or subjecting galvanized metal to any sort of heat, be sure to have good ventilation, even if you are welding outside. Those fumes in large amounts will make you sick really quick, and in smaller doses, make you sick in the long run.
Rant off, just trying to make sure everyone is aware...
David from jax

Hi David,
You bring up a good point on zinc. I try not to use galvanized unless that is all I have. Well aware of the poison, have had it once. Drinking lots of milk helps get rid of it.

On this build nothing galvanized was used. It is also one of the reasons that I'm hoping to find another tank and not use the big one shown in early posts.

On things like pipe and square tubing, even though its ground off the outside, it still blows through from the inside. Crappy welds and the poison factor.

Hope everyone that welds reads this and heeds the warning.

Thank You,
Jim

 

[bindian]

Forgot the tongue extension picture yesterday.

Tuesday or Wednesday its off to the metal yard and see what can be found. Maybe a tank for the roller, some 2x3" "C" channel, some 2" square 1/4" wall tubing and some 1/2x1/5" strap iron.

Jim,
By metal yard, do you mean scrap metal yard? We got a local scrap yard that has a scale that I weigh by tractor and trailers on. I once bought a scrapped 5 hp B&S engine there for 15 cents a pound. I put electronic ignition on it and it ran great. All for a broken screw mount for the condenser. I put it on my son's mini bike.
hugs, Brandi

 

[crash325]

Jim,
By metal yard, do you mean scrap metal yard? We got a local scrap yard that has a scale that I weigh by tractor and trailers on. I once bought a scrapped 5 hp B&S engine there for 15 cents a pound. I put electronic ignition on it and it ran great. All for a broken screw mount for the condenser. I put it on my son's mini bike.
hugs, Brandi

Tucson Metals" has a large area for scrap & cut offs. That is where I go first, anything I may need in the future is picked up. They have new metal as well, if not found in the scrap, the new is fairly reasonable.

Man there is also looking for a tank for me. Old compressor or propane tank would be nice. Want to build the roller, culvert and another wood stove or 2.

 

[crash325]

WOW!! The price of metal has gone out of sight.

701#s Came to $385, $10 of that was cutting the pipe to 6'.

Acetylene price is gone nuts as well. My medium size tank $ $86 including sales tax. Oxygen tank is $10 if filled on Tuesday or Thursday. Other days its almost $40.

It's a guess, but I think the 6', 3/8"x18" of pipe weights around 550#s. Guessing again, think when done and filled with water, roller will weight around 1,100 #s. Too much math for me. How about 1 of you folks good in math giving it a shot.

Now I need some Suggestions. The ends of the pipe are cut crooked and need to be trimmed straight. Tried wrapping a 2" wide strap around the pipe, but mark was still crooked. Am thinking maybe using a dry wall square may help. Too much cutting to screw it up and still be crooked.

 

[jimmysisson]

I get ~950# weight of water only. For square cut, prop the pipe up dead vertical in a puddle or pan of water, mark the water line, measure to move the line close to the end?
Jim

 

[E/S]

Now I need some Suggestions. The ends of the pipe are cut crooked and need to be trimmed straight. Tried wrapping a 2" wide strap around the pipe, but mark was still crooked. Am thinking maybe using a dry wall square may help. Too much cutting to screw it up and still be crooked.[/QUOTE]

Use a peace of card stock at least 6" wide and long enough to go around the pipe 1 1/2 times. Rap it around the pipe and square up the straight edge.

E/S

 

[crash325]

Jimmy & E/S,
Thank you for your ideas. Jimmy thanks for the math. :thumbsup:

I squared it up the hard way. Stand on end, shim until square with steel plate. Make a marker and drag it around the pipe while its setting on the steel plate. Cut went from 0 to 2" and I am pretty happy with my cutting. Had not fired up the torch in over a year. Pretty clean and straight, very little slag and only a tiny little place needed another shot. Even managed a little angle on part of it. Will do a little grinding, set back on plate to see if more is needed

Would have got more done, but had a little tractor trouble. 2 Hours of trouble shooting and testing things. All said and done, I think part of the key switch has gone out. Run a jumper from battery to the injector and it goes. Will do a real fix next week :laughing:

Thanks Again Guys,
Jim

 

[crash325]

Actually made some progress today.

Little over an hour grinding down the end of the pipe and chamfering the edge. Set pipe back up on steel plate, check to see if it sits straight. Near perfect on straight. Put in some heavy tack welds and lay back down.

Laying it down was a mistake. Hard to roll with the square plate sticking out. Far too much out of position welding for me. Stand it back on end and finish weld. Lift it up in the air about a foot and fire up the cutting torch.

Today's cutting not a pretty as yesterday. Cutting through welds and slag as well as the metal makes it a little more of a challenge, Before grinding, I'll touch up the cut some with the torch. Once all the grinding is done, a final weld, that I hope comes out looking good.

End #2 can be marked by measuring from the first end. Guess that will be tomorrows goal. Mark, cut & weld end #2.

I really like the 5/32 "WeldCoat" #6013 rod. 145 Amps and just stuff it in the crack. Some of the welds even looked like I knew what I was doing. :laughing::thumbsup:

 

[crash325]

Sure would like one of you math experts would figure out the weight of the 18"diameter X 71" long X 3/8" pipe. I can't do formulas. Tried the one on the link below and nothing seems to come out right. End plates (X2) are 3/16" thick by 18" diameter. If you don't mind throw those weights in as well.

Calculating Pipes Weight

Down the center of the tank will be 2" pipe (outside diameter 2.37", wall thickness .37" x length 77". Link says it is 10.79 per foot, but that does not sound quite right to me. :mur:

Thanks to anyone that does the math and / or tells me how to do it myself.

My Guess to mation is about 675 pounds total, including the bridle.:mur:

 

[crash325]

Almost never get as much done as hoped or planned. But progress was made.

End #1 was ground down, ground out for a welding channel and then welded. Welding came out pretty good. Good enough that it will not be ground down, just left as is. It would have been better had I made the channel equal depth and width.

Got the solid end marked and cut out for the water fill and axle. The end did stay flat and not puckered as it looks in the picture. Needed to have the center hole in order to stand the pipe on end. Will get other end on and welded tomorrow if possible.

A 2" pipe will go all the way through the pipe and get welded solid on both ends. Axle will go all the way + another few inches, then bolted solid to the bridal.

Have to take Monday off. May be sort of lazy tomorrow as well. :laughing::thumbsup: