new to me 03 century 2535
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- century 2535
tacticalturnip
Elite Member
Does anyone happen to have a hydraulic pump laying around that can take pictures and measurements? I know the factory is 8.4 GPM, I'm looking at putting a 10.4 GPM@1800RPM pump on. I need to know what the shaft size of the factory as well as bolt pattern. below is a link of the pump I'm looking at.
lPUMP
lPUMP
ptsg
Super Member
It will most likely have splines with some odd number of splines at least. Typically, tractor manufacturers use some odd combination of shaft and mounting flange on hydraulic pumps that make it hard to find replacement aftermarkets or simply upgraded (bigger) pumps.
Simpler and cheaper router may be mounting the new pump in the front of the crankshaft and take the other one out of the equation.
Alright!
Got the steering all buttoned back up. no leaks and steering feels great. Cycled it like 100 times back and fourth until bubbles cleared the tank. worked the tractor for 4 hours after that and no blow outs. hopefully the tractor last a while now, so I can get some work done. although I had to put a hoodie on! temp only went up to 100. chilly for this time of year.
Got the steering all buttoned back up. no leaks and steering feels great. Cycled it like 100 times back and fourth until bubbles cleared the tank. worked the tractor for 4 hours after that and no blow outs. hopefully the tractor last a while now, so I can get some work done. although I had to put a hoodie on! temp only went up to 100. chilly for this time of year.
Last edited:
Slowpoke Slim
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2017
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- 3,610
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- Bismarck, ND
- Tractor
- Husqvarna YTH24V48 riding mower, Branson 3725CH
Glad you're back in business.Alright!
Got the steering all buttoned back up. no leaks and steering feels great. Cycled it like 100 times back and fourth until bubbles cleared the tank. worked the tractor for 4 hours after that and no blow outs. hopefully the tractor last a while now, so I can get some work done. although I had to put a hoodie on! temp only went up to 100. chilly for this time of year.
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Hey Guys,
Quick question is there separate clutch adjustment for PTO and trans? or is the one adjustment for both? right now my clutch feels good and works great. but the PTO clutch does not disengage, it grinds with the tractor on going into gear. I went to a stump. pushed in the clutch with the brush hog still moving, let it spin down to engine idle. lowered it on the stump and it stops fine. but as soon as I pick it back up the PTO takes off again. so the clutch is dragging and not seized at least. I'm just not sure how much clutch adjustment I can do before the main clutch will start to slip. thak
Quick question is there separate clutch adjustment for PTO and trans? or is the one adjustment for both? right now my clutch feels good and works great. but the PTO clutch does not disengage, it grinds with the tractor on going into gear. I went to a stump. pushed in the clutch with the brush hog still moving, let it spin down to engine idle. lowered it on the stump and it stops fine. but as soon as I pick it back up the PTO takes off again. so the clutch is dragging and not seized at least. I'm just not sure how much clutch adjustment I can do before the main clutch will start to slip. thak
52wej
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2008
- Messages
- 268
- Location
- Central Virginia
- Tractor
- 2004 Century 2535 (3510 Branson equivalent), 2016 Kubota MX 5200
Per my operators manual on my 2004 Century 2535 you are supposed to have between 3/4 and 1 1/4" free travel on the clutch pedal. If you have too much it will not allow the PTO fully disengage.
Adjustments per manual:
1. Stop engine (remove key)
2. Depress clutch pedal slightly by hnd and measure free travel
3. Adjust free travel on the turnbuckle next to the clutch pedal.
Hope this helps. W. Jones
Adjustments per manual:
1. Stop engine (remove key)
2. Depress clutch pedal slightly by hnd and measure free travel
3. Adjust free travel on the turnbuckle next to the clutch pedal.
Hope this helps. W. Jones