New to me TC29D cranks & won’t start

   / New to me TC29D cranks & won’t start #91  
Since the OP said it had blow by when cranking that part of the leak down test is complete. Compression even with oil is too low. Time to disassemble and perform what can be done while apart to that degree. I have been building engines over 55 years. Checkout my Massey Ferguson MF 400 rebuild listed as another restoration on this site. I bought it not running like you did.
 
   / New to me TC29D cranks & won’t start #92  
If you have working glo plugs, even a 'whiff' of either can destroy the motor to the point where you'll need a major rebuild and not just a top end job.
 
   / New to me TC29D cranks & won’t start #93  
I have a bought-new 2012 Boomer 35 with the same problem, Tried most of what you did and called mechanics and dealers about it. Burned out the block heater and installed a coolant heater: still no luck. This was simplistic, but I replaced the "good" battery and it has started every time since. Don't know why, but it worked and nobody told me to try this fix.
 
   / New to me TC29D cranks & won’t start #94  
doesn’t really matter, looks like another “one off” poster
I have a bought-new 2012 Boomer 35 with the same problem, Tried most of what you did and called mechanics and dealers about it. Burned out the block heater and installed a coolant heater: still no luck. This was simplistic, but I replaced the "good" battery and it has started every time since. Don't know why, but it worked and nobody told me to try this fix.
starter current draw is around 275-300 amps for that size motor. Your old battery probably had a low amp capacity (bad cell(s)). With low current available, the starter won’t spin fast enough so you get low compression that won’t make combustion happen.
 
   / New to me TC29D cranks & won’t start #95  
INJECTION PUMP. PLUNGERS ARE STICKING INSIDE THE INJECTION PUMP.
 
   / New to me TC29D cranks & won’t start #96  
doesn’t really matter, looks like another “one off” poster

starter current draw is around 275-300 amps for that size motor. Your old battery probably had a low amp capacity (bad cell(s)). With low current available, the starter won’t spin fast enough so you get low compression that won’t make combustion happen.
Low cranking speed won’t give blow by. Cranking test is simple, 9.6 volts at the starter when cranking.
 
   / New to me TC29D cranks & won’t start #97  
Low cranking speed won’t give blow by. Cranking test is simple, 9.6 volts at the starter when cranking.
Diesels need higher amperage draw to spin starter motor faster. Simply getting voltage at starter is not a sufficient test
 
   / New to me TC29D cranks & won’t start #98  
Diesels need higher amperage draw to spin starter motor faster. Simply getting voltage at starter is not a sufficient test
The amperage draw will be provided by the starter and the engine and other spinning components. If the voltage drops below 9.6 it indicates a problem. Then one must diagnose.
 
   / New to me TC29D cranks & won’t start #99  
Since the OP said it had blow by when cranking that part of the leak down test is complete. Compression even with oil is too low. Time to disassemble and perform what can be done while apart to that degree. I have been building engines over 55 years. Checkout my Massey Ferguson MF 400 rebuild listed as another restoration on this site. I bought it not running like you did.
The thing is your taking a single compression test gauges readings. "Trust but verify" there nearly all equally low so I would throw a second gauge on there and re check.

Gauges do go bad. I have one that reads 20-30psi low.
 
   / New to me TC29D cranks & won’t start #100  
Just connect the gauge to a known source like their air compressor. In this case he needs lot more than 30 psi.
 

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