New to me TC29D cranks & won’t start

[CalienteJohn]

Gave it a sniff of either tonight after work, then a whiff, then a spray without filter in place…
Nothing
I Will compression test this weekend if time permits
Thank you everyone. Not what I want to hear but the truth hurts.

Thoughts everyone please!
Look into fuel pressure or no
Try to fix current motor
New motor
Cut bait!?!

 

[Harry in Ky]

You saw smoke and vapor out of the breather while cranking? If that's the case, added to the "no start", it's a bad sign. I'd pull the hose off the intake manifold and look closely for signs of dirt ingestion. A compression test would confirm your suspicions, but it probably isn't necessary.

Finding a used motor will be a challenge. People are on forums every day looking for things like this that just don't come for sale when you need one. If the basics (block, head, crank) are still serviceable then repairing what you have is more likely a better option.

 

[the old grind]

After sitting a while, set the the throttle 1/3-1/2 way up & cycle the GPs 2-3 times before cranking. (I do it regularly on two also 20+ YO Shibauras. lol)

A continuity test of each GP separately can tell you if they're working or not & $10 volt/ohm meter set to 25 or 50 ohm scale will get you there. GPs are all or nothing like light bulbs & fuses. (you knew that )

btw, a simple load test can show if the relay is delivering full current to the GPs, if they're drawing it.

 

[spitter]

If you go on you tube, there are some very good videos that will walk you through doing a compression test. Search [Tractor compression test]. Long Lane Tractor in Elizabethtown PA is a NH graveyard who usually has a good stock of that vintage parts. Very honest people very helpful If you have to go that route.

 

[CalienteJohn]

After sitting a while, set the the throttle 1/3-1/2 way up & cycle the GPs 2-3 times before cranking. (I do it regularly on two also 20+ YO Shibauras. lol)

A continuity test of each GP separately can tell you if they're working or not & $10 volt/ohm meter set to 25 or 50 ohm scale will get you there. GPs are all or nothing like light bulbs & fuses. (you knew that )

btw, a simple load test can show if the relay is delivering full current to the GPs, if they're drawing it.

I’ll try the 1/3 to 1/2 throttle
I’ve already cycled GPs 2-3 times before cranking but with throttle between 1/2 & full each time. I also have a basic multimeter and know how to use basic voltage and continuity functions. Will find a video to help me figure out how to GP test and how to load test them..

Isn’t continuity and ohm setting different on multimeter?

Also, Is a load test done with a multimeter as well?

 

[CalienteJohn]

If you go on you tube, there are some very good videos that will walk you through doing a compression test. Search [Tractor compression test]. Long Lane Tractor in Elizabethtown PA is a NH graveyard who usually has a good stock of that vintage parts. Very honest people very helpful If you have to go that route.

The video on YouTube university I watched showed testing compression at glow plug holes individually and with battery on charger
Is this proper procedure?

Also thank you for the tip on Long Lane Tractors SPITTER. I appreciate it
Thank you everyone

 

[CalienteJohn]

You saw smoke and vapor out of the breather while cranking? If that's the case, added to the "no start", it's a bad sign. I'd pull the hose off the intake manifold and look closely for signs of dirt ingestion. A compression test would confirm your suspicions, but it probably isn't necessary.

Finding a used motor will be a challenge. People are on forums every day looking for things like this that just don't come for sale when you need one. If the basics (block, head, crank) are still serviceable then repairing what you have is more likely a better option.

Correct vapor/smoke from breather when cranking multiple times..

I will pull intake manifold apart and inspect for dirt ingestion as recommended.

I think I’ll hold off on compression testing for now and move forward on glow plugs testing first.

As far as the basics go (block head crank etc) can I determine serviceability for any of those myself?

I will give it a good cleaning today also to see block and head better as well as clean off glow plugs etc to work on.

I’ll post updates and read back over posts again make sure I didn’t miss anything. THANK YOU EVERYONE

 

[WranglerX]

Isn’t continuity and ohm setting different on multimeter?

"Continuity" is measured in "ohms".... Resistance is also measured in ohms....

 

[CalienteJohn]

"Continuity" is measured in "ohms".... Resistance is also measured in ohms....

I proved my knowledge with the ohm meter in one simple sentence lol. Or lack of knowledge better yet haha but I’m learning and greatly appreciate that there’s no sarcasm or rude people here only helpful friendly info. THANK YOU EVERYONE

 

[nyone]

Checking the GP is a good test. I know some Japanese engines need them even when its 95* out.