New to me Yanmar 2210D...and I have questions! :D

[Skold]

Hi All,

I've gotten a 2210D that came with my new property. It's not in horrible shape but not the best either. I've been searching and researching on this forum and have already learned a few things thanks to y'all! I do want to get to know my tractor more, get it in better running shape, and make sure I'm doing everything right so it lasts me a long time. I want to learn to work on it myself and although I don't know much yet, I'm capable and willing to learn. I do have a few questions up front and I'm sure more will follow. Some of them may even be very basic so be warned. :laughing:

1. The first issue is that the hydraulics for the bucket on the loader are backwards for up and down. When I push the lever forward, it lowers and vice versa. Coming from a Kioti tractor, I know this is backwards and I want to fix it. Would this be a simple swap of the hydraulic lines? Is this something easy to do? I've never messed with hydraulics on anything before so I'll be starting from zero.

2. I want to change out all of the fluids on the tractor and get a fresh start. Rather than cobble together information from here and there, is there a simple place anyone can point me to for what to change and how to do it? I know there's the oil, and hydraulic fluid, but what else is there? Axle fluid maybe?

3. When I let off the throttle, the tractor doesn't want to idle. It seems as though the vibrations are working the hand throttle all the way forward by itself and killing the engine. Is this normal? If not, is there an easy fix?

4. The brake petals are sticky. Is there a known simple fix for this or common culprit I should look for?

5. Range shifter. I understand that this is like a primary gearing system or something, but what gears should I use and when?

6. PTO shifter. I have seen that this is in the H pattern (like range shifter) and I was told that I should only use 1st gear. My labels are totally gone and I want to make sure I know what I'm doing there. I already put it in what I think is first and made a couple of rounds with the PTO brush mower and nothing has broken yet. Any advice here?

I think I'll start with this. I'll attach more pics when I can get some. Anyway, I thought this was a junk tractor at first and especially compared to my Kioti CK4010 that I sold before I moved but from reading on here, I guess it might not be so bad if I can get it sorted out and take care of it.

Thanks in advance for any input and help!

 

[winston1]

1. I believe forward is correct for lowering but yes, if you want it opposite you could change hoses. However, if your control valve has a float position then changing the hoses might not work. Float position just release all hydraulic pressure on the lift pistons therefore letting the bucket float.

2. Your 2210 will hold close to 5 gallons of transmission/hydraulic fluid. Dipstick on top of transmission for accurate amount. You also have a suction screen that will need to be pulled and cleaned. It is behind a 3 bolt flange on the left side (sitttng in seat) just opposite of the hydraulic suction line that goes in on the right side of the transmission. Your engine will hold a little less than 5 quarts of a good rated diesel oil. I use Rotella 15w40, you can get many opinions on the oil. You have a spin on oil filter (wix 51064 is one). Your front wheel drive uses a gear oil. You can use 80w90. Don't know for sure but if you change it it is likely to take close to a gallon. Might crack the bottom plugs and see what comes out. If you looks nasty you might want to change it.

3. I am sending you a pm so you can email me and I will share something with you to shown you the friction washers on your throttle and how it all goes together.

4. Brake pedal shaft may need lubing, cam of brake shoes likely sticking. Many folks have to pull things apart to free them up.

5. I'll let someone else answer this. Just don't lug your engine.

6. Your brush mower is rated for 540 rpm. Anythng over that could be dangerous. Your pto speeds are 547,709,928,1231rpm. I think this is your shift pattern. PTO SHIFT PATTERN _: Yanmar Tractor Parts

 

[California]

Winston pretty much covered it. There is a friction washer where the throttle lever pivots in front of your knee. I tried making one, a couple of times. That never worked well. I gave up and bought the proper one from hoyetractor.com.

The rototillers Yanmar sells in Japan for YM2210 can be run at the higher pto speeds tilling muck in a rice paddy. 540 rpm is the universal standard for US-made implements, faster is dangerous. (A few specialized US implements are made for 1000 rpm, but rare). So use only your slowest pto choice.

It is common for the shaft that goes into the brake housing to get stiff from corrosion and from brake dust on the inside. There's an o-ring that prevents lubing it from outside. Its simple to remove the cover and clean up the shaft so it will turn freely. You might want to buy the special brake spring pliers - same as for automotive drum brakes - to make it easier to get the brake shoe return springs back on, although small vise grips and a screwdriver for leverage can substitute. On each side, the front and rear brake shoes can be swapped to average out the wear.

Fluids etc - There are excellent English language manuals for the similar YM240 that Yanmar built for the US market. I suggest buy YM240 Operation Manual on Ebay to get a general idea of Yanmar's design philosophy, advice on operation, etc. YM2210 is a slightly larger and heaver near-twin to YM240 with the Powershift vs manual transmission as the major difference.

If you haven't discovered hoyetractor.com yet - they will have pretty much everything you will need to support this tractor. Their parts diagrams online are the first place to look when you wonder how something is assembled.

Range shifter: Low for rototilling when you want to creep along. Or to sneak up on a pallet to get loader forks under it while standing up to see what you are doing. Intermediate most of the time where the tractor is working reasonably hard. High is 'road gear', also you may be able to mow in high and get more done.

Appearance: Ignore it, unfortunate but it has little relation to the condition of the tractor. That oil filter looks new which is a better clue to the prior owner's care. My YM240 was equally shabby from years outdoors when I bought it, now 15 years later its still ugly but so what.

I would replace that bogus fuel cap immediately to avoid condensation in the diesel. Two choices: first is the proper cap and a mesh screen that goes under it for filtering when you refuel. From hoyetractor. Other choice is a $65 cap with a fuel gauge in it. Ask Hoye if the float in this one is calibrated for the size of your tank.

Most of all, just run it and enjoy it!

 

[Industrial Toys]

The way I figure it, a hydraulic lever should work as if the axis and rotation is the same from lever to tool. Sometimes when going sideways, it gets complicated. But to me, push on a joystick and the loader goes down is right. Push joystick to the side, away from me, and the bucket goes away (down).

 

[Skold]

Sorry, you guys are right...mine is opposite of what it should be so forward is going up. I'll read more of what you guys said when I have more time in the morning but thank you so much for the input so far.

 

[Jtullis13]

Looks like Winston and California have covered everything in good detail! Nice find, and you will love the 2210d:thumbsup:

 

[Skold]

Hey Guys...this is a wealth of information and enough to get me started. I REALLY appreciate y'all taking the time to answer my questions. I'll go over this stuff and see where it gets me. For now, I at least think I have enough info to attempt a mow of our 5 acres, which is starting to get overgrown. Then, I'll check and replace fluids and parts as necessary, etc. I'll post again here if I have follow up questions but for now...cheers!

 

[careyo63]

On #3 if you look at your throttle lever there is a washer/friction plate in between that holds it in place. I'm sure it's on the Dia. winston may have sent and Cali. mentioned. Not much to it!! In the pic. is what it looks like new you can see it. They wear and get old and brittle. Mine fell apart and came out when I tried to Adj. it. The two locking nuts is how you Adj. it and adds tension. Fredricks mailed mine in a reg. Env. Yrs. ago when I just bought my 2000 and I'm sure they're pretty much the same. FP.8220 is the # of it. And just vent the cap to prevent condensation I just posted it and received a good reply well done on it and didn't cost me anything. Came off a old ATV. It's just a tube. Here is the pic. of it while your here.

 

[Skold]

Is this the correct shift pattern for the Range shifter?

SHIFT PATTERN DECAL: Yanmar Tractor Parts

 

[careyo63]

678/447/1802 Spalding
Call this man. He knows or can get anything your need for that model. He may even have one the lot. Bought a couple tractors from him. Fredrick's supplied.

 

[normde2001]

"you guys are right. . .mine is opposite of what it should be so forward is going up."

Was going to comment that historically on FEL or aircraft a joystick is forward/down, rearward/up, (push the nose down or pull it up.), but now confused as to what you have.

 

[Skold]

"you guys are right. . .mine is opposite of what it should be so forward is going up."

Was going to comment that historically on FEL or aircraft a joystick is forward/down, rearward/up, (push the nose down or pull it up.), but now confused as to what you have.

Mine is backwards to what it should be...forward is up and backward is down. I want to reverse them so they are correct. My original post was wrong. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[MarshSt]

I have a 2210BD and these shift patterns labels are ones I got from Hoye. C means crawl and it is slowwww. FYI: This tractor also does NOT have an internal over-running clutch for the PTO shaft and I have heard that the momentum of the rotating mower blades with drive the tractor forward even though the clutch is depressed. Multiple posts here have warned to use an external over-running clutch unit between the PTO output shaft and implement drive shaft. I have always run an external unit on mine so I don't have any bad experience to report due to the over-run.
Steve

 

[winston1]

Skold, you need to check your private messages.

 

[Andy1969]

Is this the correct shift pattern for the Range shifter?

SHIFT PATTERN DECAL: Yanmar Tractor Parts

Here痴 a photo of my 2210D.

 

[Jtullis13]

Sorry I didn't get to respond to any of these questions, was out of town working this weekend. Those are the correct shift patterns for the 2210D.

 

[Skold]

Sorry I didn't get to respond to any of these questions, was out of town working this weekend. Those are the correct shift patterns for the 2210D.

Thank you for confirming. I think I've figured it out.

 

[Skold]

One thing I need to figure out is the oil light coming on once I've worked the tractor for about 15-30 minutes...happens every time. From other threads, it sounds like I need to buy a pressure gauge from an auto parts store and get a new OEM oil pressure switch/sending unit. Would one of you pros mind posting links to examples of both parts needed? I don't want to buy the wrong thing. Thanks in advance!

 

[Andy1969]

One thing I need to figure out is the oil light coming on once I've worked the tractor for about 15-30 minutes...happens every time. From other threads, it sounds like I need to buy a pressure gauge from an auto parts store and get a new OEM oil pressure switch/sending unit. Would one of you pros mind posting links to examples of both parts needed? I don't want to buy the wrong thing. Thanks in advance!

So my oil light was not coming on but I still wanted to know what my actual pressure was doing so I installed a gauge, and kept the oil light. I've attached a few pics to show how I did it. You'll need to remove the current sending unit from where it threads into the block and install a tee fitting into the block. Be advised that the threads on the sending unit and in the block ARE NOT standard American Pipe Threads! If you try to screw a 1/8' NPT fitting into the block, it will go in but it will forever damage the threads in the block, and probably leak. The threads in the block are British pipe threads and have a different included angle on the thread form themselves and a slightly different pitch. You will need to get a tee (from Hoye, or Amazon) that has British male threads, the straight port will be British female pipe threads, and the 90 degree port will be 1/8 american pipe female. Refer to the photos but basically you can then install the tee into the block, then the sending unit will screw into the straight port, and the oil pressure gauge capillary fitting will screw into the 90 degree port and then you'll just have to route the capillary tube and figure out how you want to mount the gauge. With this set-up, you'll not only be able to see your actual pressure, you'll know if you have a bad sending unit. If it is bad, then you can get the correct one from Hoye. Hope this helps. As a reference, when I am running the tractor on a hot day with the brush hog, I run about 50 psi at PTO speed and about 15-20 psi at idle after a long run with everything hot. You should be close to that range.

 

[Skold]

So my oil light was not coming on but I still wanted to know what my actual pressure was doing so I installed a gauge, and kept the oil light. I've attached a few pics to show how I did it. You'll need to remove the current sending unit from where it threads into the block and install a tee fitting into the block. Be advised that the threads on the sending unit and in the block ARE NOT standard American Pipe Threads! If you try to screw a 1/8' NPT fitting into the block, it will go in but it will forever damage the threads in the block, and probably leak. The threads in the block are British pipe threads and have a different included angle on the thread form themselves and a slightly different pitch. You will need to get a tee (from Hoye, or Amazon) that has British male threads, the straight port will be British female pipe threads, and the 90 degree port will be 1/8 american pipe female. Refer to the photos but basically you can then install the tee into the block, then the sending unit will screw into the straight port, and the oil pressure gauge capillary fitting will screw into the 90 degree port and then you'll just have to route the capillary tube and figure out how you want to mount the gauge. With this set-up, you'll not only be able to see your actual pressure, you'll know if you have a bad sending unit. If it is bad, then you can get the correct one from Hoye. Hope this helps. As a reference, when I am running the tractor on a hot day with the brush hog, I run about 50 psi at PTO speed and about 15-20 psi at idle after a long run with everything hot. You should be close to that range.

This looks like an excellent first step in troubleshooting and mod for long term benefit as well. Thank you for writing this up. Would you mind posting Amazon links to all of the parts I'd need? I don't want to get the wrong thing and mess something up. Thanks again!

By the way, I was able to switch the hydraulic ports and now the loader controls are functioning correctly. I think whoever messed with them last had just put them back on reversed.