New utility tractor (100hp range)

[neokane]

Looking at new utility tractors in the 100-120hp range.

Looking at either an LS MT7101, a kioti hx1151, TYM 115/130 or a Zetor 120.
All dealers are an hour or more away so dealer location is trivial unless I want to fork over money for green.

Doing field work/row crops, and hay
Pros and cons?

 

[hayden]

I have been going through this and honestly came up empty handed. But that's because I don't want a clutch-to-shift tractor, and nobody offers an HST or IVT in that range. The best you can find is something with 2 power shift ranges, but manual shift gears and other ranges, or 4 to 8 power-shift gears, and manual shift ranges. The exception is Fendt who offer an IVT (they call it Vario), but they are very expensive and the closest dealer for me is 300 miles away. Deere used to have the 5R which had 4x8 power shift ranges & speeds. Also Massey has the 5700 Global series with 4x4 power shift ranges & speeds, but it's bigger than the Deere 5 series.

By my wants/desires are clearly unique, as demonstrated by product offerings in this size.

 

[Hay Dude]

Looking at new utility tractors in the 100-120hp range.

Looking at either an LS MT7101, a kioti hx1151, TYM 115/130 or a Zetor 120.
All dealers are an hour or more away so dealer location is trivial unless I want to fork over money for green.

Doing field work/row crops, and hay
Pros and cons?

If you are doing field work, row crops and hay (this is what I do, too), I would not suggest buying a “utility” tractor. You should buy a farm/ag tractor.

I’d be looking at AGCO/Massey, Case-IH, Deere, etc.
The brands you listed are fine for mowing, loader work, woods work, etc., but were not designed from the ground up as a farm tractor except for the Zetor. They do build farm tractors.

 

[neokane]

If you are doing field work, row crops and hay (this is what I do, too), I would not suggest buying a “utility” tractor. You should buy a farm/ag tractor.

I’d be looking at AGCO/Massey, Case-IH, Deere, etc.
The brands you listed are fine for mowing, loader work, woods work, etc., but were not designed from the ground up as a farm tractor except for the Zetor. They do build farm tractors.

Maybe need to clarify. We have a jd 7000 30/6 row planter. And nothing large as far as discs or soil conditioners. Mostly loamy soils. So I would think for the sub 150ish acres plus would be adequate.
Future desires would be to get a drill for beans and hay etc.

 

[Hay Dude]

Maybe need to clarify. We have a jd 7000 30/6 row planter. And nothing large as far as discs or soil conditioners. Mostly loamy soils. So I would think for the sub 150ish acres plus would be adequate.
Future desires would be to get a drill for beans and hay etc.

I tried small-medium sized farming with Kubota tractors (M-135X and M-126X) with disappointing results. By 3000 hours with above average care, they both started to fall apart.
I sold them and bought legacy brand tractors. They are faring much better, even with 6,000-10,000 hours on them.

 

[neokane]

Interesting.. I'm very curious about this Zetor proxima 120 a dealer has. But was leaning hard towards the LS mt7101.
The new tym t130 also looked promising.
Just seems like legacy tractors are at a premium right now. 4020s and 4440s pull a premium. Would like some creature comfort and a buddy seat for my toddler.

 

[Hay Dude]

Interesting..

It was disappointing to say the least. I expected more. Most of the tractor was ok, but I found the Kubota was lighter built by like 40% in weight and the hydraulics were much weaker.
Here’s a photo comparison of my 2 135HP tractors. Both are 2010’s. The AGCO Challengers tires are about 40% larger than the “comparable” Kubota. It weighs 5,000 more pounds. The loader/hydraulic pump lits twice as much. The front & rear axles are 50% bigger. Only thing they share in common is they’re both 135HP.

I'm very curious about this Zetor proxima 120 a dealer has. But was leaning hard towards the LS mt7101.
The new tym t130 also looked promising.
Just seems like legacy tractors are at a premium right now. 4020s and 4440s pull a premium. Would like some creature comfort and a buddy seat for my toddler.

The premium is for the purpose-built heavier Ag built components and the ag dealer support.

You’d be much better off with a used legacy brand real Ag tractor than a new aisian utility tractor. It doesn’t have to be an old open station noisy thing. Look for a 10 year old Massey, Deere, Case-IH, Challenger, etc. They have cabs/AC/buddy seats/all the comforts, too.

 

[kneedeep]

Look at older 150 hp tractors for a 6 row planter.
Won’t be long till you need a big disc.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Of the ones listed, I'd buy the Zetor for sure.

SR

 

[redman135]

If you take hay dudes advice make sure you know what version of tractor you are looking at. ie budget or premium farmer or contractor.
Example: MF 5665, is a budget tractor aimed at low to moderate use stock farmers. This shows in a small fuel tank (145 l )(can't mow hay all day)and a reduced (slow) capasity hydraulic pump.
The premium farmer and contractor versions have larger fuel tank, and higher capasity (lift heavier an faster) hydrualic pump.
I recommend you pay attention to the transmission as that will have a large effect on how easy/frustrating the tractor is to drive.
Identify the main work speed for the tasks you want to achieve. THEN identify the speed you need to stick shift. Do you need to stick shift close to your main work speed? Does the power shift overlap the stick shift to reduce the stick shifts in your main work speed?
EG JD quad box 100 hp has a 6 sp stick shift with a 4sp power shift in each gear, BUT when mowing hay you have a stick shift slap in the main mowing speed range. JD 140 hp quad box has a 5 sp stick shift and 4 sp power shift. NO stick shift in main work speed. So you only use the power shift. FAR BETTER when mowing all day, and stacking 200 - 900 round bales per customer.
EG MF gearbox. You will probably be looking at the 16 sp, 4 stick shift and 4sp power shift.You run into the 100hp JD problem. There is also a 4sp stick shift with a 6 sp power shift that gives plenty of gear overlap to reduce the stick shifts.
Note that both JD and MF offer an auto shift option in these gear boxes, EXCELLLENT for bale stacking and variable speed work.

I second Hay Dudes advice and would add, look at a used contractors level tractor and see the options and don' be scared off by 5k hours.

I google image searched vermont. The land contour is similar to my families farm.
Ergonomics. Try the tractors for fit. Eg JD scv controls have a better lever angle than MF does.(twin rotor rake, 1 lever /rotor, more comfortable to use)
Windscreen wiper in MF is better(reaches top) than JD if you are tall.
EG MF you can hit the roof if you are tall on big bumps. Major pain in the neck.
If you are going to do a lot of loader work get self leveling if you can afford it.
Test a tractor with OPEN circut hydraulics back to back with a tractor with CLOSED circut hydraulics. Manually level a bucket (loaded)as you lift and you will see what I mean.

Good Luck