New Utility Trailer + Wimpy Truck

[Tractorable]

You guys have convinced me to dial back my ambitions until I can afford to do it right. Finances are fine but I live in Northern Virginia where property values are through the roof. I just wish I had $100K laying around to get a new tractor, truck, and trailer but I don’t so I’m just going to have to get scrappy and live within my means.

Question: let’s forget hauling the tractor and FJ40 for now and focus on a solution to haul 16ft fence boards. Think I could do that with a single axle trailer that I could haul with the Ridgeline?

 

[Tompet]

You guys have convinced me to dial back my ambitions until I can afford to do it right. Finances are fine but I live in Northern Virginia where property values are through the roof. I just wish I had $100K laying around to get a new tractor, truck, and trailer but I don稚 so I知 just going to have to get scrappy and live within my means.

Question: let痴 forget hauling the tractor and FJ40 for now and focus on a solution to haul 16ft fence boards. Think I could do that with a single axle trailer that I could haul with the Ridgeline?

Maybe look for a used smaller trailer to accomplish tasks at hand you listed? My brother had an old boat trailer that he decked just for some simple hauling tasks like some of what you listed. If fence boards hang over by a foot or three...red flag works around here.

Ultimately your original 20' length trailer will be good in the future, I would suggest at that point in time you get 10k axles, brakes on both, 2-5k, that is usually rated 9,990. I went 18' and 7k, which works but not optimal for sure.

 

[3930dave]

Question: letç—´ forget hauling the tractor and FJ40 for now and focus on a solution to haul 16ft fence boards. Think I could do that with a single axle trailer that I could haul with the Ridgeline?

A qualified Yes:

You understand absolute weight limit as an important factor. :thumbsup:, as we have a least one long-running thread on here with thousands of examples of people who don't...

If you are new to trailers, also keep tongue weight in mind. 10% is stuck in my mind, this site ranges it 9 to 14%.

What is Tongue Weight and How Do You Measure It?

Sounds about right, as 15% is what I think of as an upper limit.

The Point -> re. your example above - Do Not tail-weight the trailer !

Forgive me if this is old news, but this subject can give people a nasty surprise. If you are hauling long boards on a short-trailer, you may be within the trailer weight capacity, but can end up under 9% tongue weight - resulting in an unstable trailer.

My neighbour's Dad was an ironworker. He built a really nice single axle utility trailer. It wasn't that big, but he built it with a telescoping hitch coupler - hauling longer stuff, he'd just stretch the trailer hitch bar out and pin the trailer at the desired length. Haven't gone looking, but haven't noticed any commercial equivalent though....

Haven't messed with this site, but it should allow you to put some real #'s around how tail-weight reduces tongue weight.

Tongue weight on bumper pull calculator

^ issue applies to big trucks and trailers too.... that's where the comment about needing the extra length for tractor + implements...... with a longer deck you can play around with getting the tongue weight dialed in properly. Bigger toys, same physics.

Rgds, D.

 

[4570Man]

I’d probably look into a roof rack with a hitch carrier that extends up to roof height for hauling the lumber. Or have them deliver. There’s no way I’d haul 16ft lumber on my 8ft trailer. My 12ft trailer would be the minimum I’d use.

 

[RyeThomas]

I agree, no way on an 8’. I live in Nova like you and I have been pulled over when I’ve done everything right. Everyone delivers these days. Used trailers do not hold value. I would save up and do it once when the time is right and buy exactly what you need.

 

[robertsa]

I agree, no way on an 8’. I live in Nova like you and I have been pulled over when I’ve done everything right. Everyone delivers these days. Used trailers do not hold value. I would save up and do it once when the time is right and buy exactly what you need.

Light to medium duty trailers don't hold value well; those are great to buy used for that reason. Heavy duty trailers do hold value because there are just fewer of them out there. Those are a candidate for purchasing new, where you can customize exactly what you need.

It's also nice if you can weld. If there's something on my trailer I don't like or want to add/delete/modify, I just draw up plans, obtain material, and do it.

 

[newbury]

I知 interested in buying a 20ft utility trailer so I can haul materials to/from our eight acre property. Materials to be hauled include dead trees, 16ft fence boards, mulch, small loads of stone, my FJ40 Land Cruiser, and compact tractor + implements. I want to buy a trailer that will suit both my short term and long term goals.

The problem is that I currently drive a wimpy truck, a 2006 Honda Ridgeline with 217K miles. I plan to buy either an F150 or Super Duty in the future when I can afford it. However, I知 finding that country life is expensive and I can稚 simultaneously afford a new truck, trailer, tractor, and implements all at the same time.

My Ridgeline has a towing capacity of 5000lbs. Can I haul a 20ft utility trailer if I知 mindful to keep the load under my towing limit? Or would this trailer have my bumper dragging on the ground the moment I hooked it up? This would be short term 1-2 years until I can afford a more capable truck.

How far and fast do you plan on towing? Big difference going a couple of miles at 40 on route 213 when there's no traffic and going 50 miles on I66 during rush hour.

How many fence boards? A few for repair or fencing in eight acres?
As others wrote if it's quantity get them delivered. Or if it's only a few get a roof rack and rack in the bed and carry them.

Isn't any loaded tandem with brakes heavier than the truck, even a one ton dually? I see the statement you made repeated a lot and unless I'm misunderstanding it, it doesn't make sense. A half ton isn't all that much lighter than a one ton.

For the OP, the Ridgeline with its unibody construction and IRS is meant for hailing stuff like camping gear and maybe a small 5x10 utility trailer. A 18-20' trailer with a 10k gross rating is going to weigh ~2500lbs. Your gcwr is only ~10k, tow rating ~5k, and payload ~1500. Considering the trailer weight alone, you can't haul a couple medium duty implements, much less the tractor they're attached to.

Even knocking off half a ton of weight by going aluminum, you'll still be exceeding your tow rating.

My 12K rated 18' Hudson equipment trailer only weighs 2,000 dry.

I'll chime in on this one cause I tried to do the same thing. When I was younger I had a wimpy truck and tried to haul a tandem with brakes. I only drove it around locally and I knew I was over my towing capacity some times but not by that much. It was always really short trips which were never more than 10 miles at most at a time. Long story short, I'll just say new ABS sensors, new rear axle bearings, new seals, and new rear brake pads all because of the leaking grease made me realize that it was a bad idea in the long run. I do not know your financial situation but mine wasn't great at the time either. I decided to go truck first then save up again for a trailer because I can rent any size trailer when I needed one. Yes, took me longer to get the truck than it would have the trailer but I am glad I went that route. I rented a smaller trailer when I had the smaller truck and just made a couple of trips instead of one and then rented larger trailers when I got the bigger truck.

Good thoughts but a smaller trailer won't help much with 16' fence boards.

I can't speak to much experience towing stuff over 10k but I'm going to assume that's not a bumper pull trailer? <snip>

My 12K rated Hudson is "bumper pull".

Thanks guys, I壇 likely avoid hauling the FJ40 and tractor until I bought or rented a better tow vehicle. I think with the Ridgeline towing a vehicle on a 20ft trailer would be wagging the dog. I壇 stick to hauling brush, sections of trees, and fencing materials, being mindful of the 5000lb towing capacity.

Good idea about the aluminum trailer. I値l start researching those.

You don't save much that weight for the $$ when you figure you will eventually move up to a bigger truck/trailer combo and need the $$ for that.
If you can skip the 16' boards there are LOTS of trailers in the 12' and under range showing up on CL in the fall as landscaping businesses expire.
And also some good sales at TSC.

I壇 probably look into a roof rack with a hitch carrier that extends up to roof height for hauling the lumber. Or have them deliver. There痴 no way I壇 haul 16ft lumber on my 8ft trailer. My 12ft trailer would be the minimum I壇 use.

If there is enough needed to require a trailer get them to deliver, even if you have a 24' trailer.

 

[dalola]

I would avoid cheap single axle trailers all together. Very limited what you can safely do with them. Spend a little more, get a 16, 18, or 20' aluminum tandem flatbed, and do nearly anything your current truck or future .5T truck is capable of. If that is currently not in the budget, rent until you can buy a quality trailer.

 

[4570Man]

I’ve got a 5x8 single axle trailer and a 25’ 11 ton GN and a few trailers in between. The 5x8 is probably the handiest one and I have trucks. I don’t see how people survive without a truck or trailer.

 

[Tractorable]

Most of our eight acres is fenced with 3 board wood horse fence. However, there’s a section in the back that still needs fenced in and we want to create another paddock so we’re looking at about 700ft of new fencing. That’s 140 16ft boards and 93 8ft posts. I also have at least a dozen dead pine trees that need to come down and be hauled to the dump. I don’t have a fireplace so firewood serves me no purpose.